registered user

ive got some devcon F and moroso a+b that i been meaning to test just havent got around to it yet

if you havent already, i'd do a test run first with the devcon and see how it holds up to e85. wasnt that the fuel you was going to use ? i tested one of my epoxies in a cup of methanol and it went to shit fast. i know it doesnt actually get submerged in the engine but none the less it still sees the exposure. so i just did a worst case scenario test

incase you didnt read what i posted earlier. he wont have nuts for a few weeks is what i was told

i dont know man. guess i look at it different. theres only X amount of time for X amount of mixture to reach the cylinder. by applying epoxy there, all your doing if forcing some amount of mixture farther away from the cylinder. time is not on your side at 10K rpm so you better make the best of what ever situation you have im not a snomobile guy nor a qaud guy but ive seen plenty of other engines. mostly mx stuff. never have i seen a oil galley as you call it. from what i understand, these engines are just rehashed old street bike engines. perhaps the galley is there from one of the previous older castings ? when they make a change to a casting, many times they dont eliminate what was already previously there. if you look at a newer cr500 cylinder it still has the water inlet cast at the back of the cylinder like they were using way back in the day ('85-'88 i think), but the water actually goes into the side. ktm was the same way. the newer cylinders still have a old water inlet casting in the side, even though the updated cylinder casting runs the water into the back. basically all they did was revise a '85 cylinder casting with a few changes as the years went on. it wasnt a total reconstruction

me personally i would grind that shit out. if the purpose was to reduce the volume, i cant think of a worse place to do it

im not sure the nut would ever loosen and fall off, even at hand tight because the directional spin of the trans shaft will try and tighten the nut on its own. that wasnt the point of my statment. i was just wondering if theres a reason you dont tighten the nut to a specific torq like the original nut ? if you look at the parts fish theres a lip on the trans shaft which appears to get pulled into the inner bearing race, while the bushing behind the front sprocket gets pushed into the inner bearing race from the outside. not suggesting you change your method, just wondering if you had a particular reason behind it

you can easily grind it out with a dremel but you may want to take the top case off. otherwise all that shit will be in your bearings. aint a bad idea to wear dust mask either

not exactly. its ktm with honda rod and piston. waiting on material that should be here friday so i can make a spacer plate. the plate with various thickeness gaskets will offset the difference in rod length and wristpin height and set the window heights at a decent starting point for the porting . ill have some pics when i get a chance

just wondering but why wouldnt you put the special nut to the same torq as the stock nut ? isnt the torq spec so it can sandwich the bushing against the inner bearing race ?

thats the problem when you put longer stroke crank in some cylinders. the timings go goofy and theres not much you can do. im doing the same thing with 82mm crank in a 80mm stroke cylinder. there wont be near as much grief as yours but still ill have to put the cylinder at a certain height for it not to be a big fuggin mess

ill give him a call and see what he has to say

i want to get one of them 3 piece covers with bearing support but that guy from chariot told me he wont have nuts for a few weeks. guess ill just wait. anybody know if you tighten that special nut to the same torq as the factory nut ? i figured it would be the same

is there any website for this guy ??

ive already started collecting some small stuff but first big thing on the list is a decent chassis setup. probly just go with a lonestar and jj&a axle etc etc. regarding the engine ill likely end up with a 10mil cub down the road but for now i think ill try some triple port stockers and see what can be accomplished with them. not sure the total weight of this combo. im about 200. not looking to break any records just want to have fun riding

remember its not a flat 600' but rather a fairly steep incline. maybe theres someone who runs that hill that can chime in on their setup ? btw im just guessing on the 600'. havent actually measured it but its fairly long the steepness of the hill has alot ot do with it. my honda will pull 5th just fine across the flat but up that hil aint no way it will do 5th

that sounds like a good idea. not sure but i think that hills like 600' or something like that. you think 4 overide gears is plenty ? im thinking it should work fine but im all new to this stuff so honestly i dont have a clue haha

if you wanted to profit from someone elses work, wouldnt you pay for the work then youll basically have a template you can copy a million times ? so it makes no sense to not give a guy a few pointers over the phone or through email. clearly whitbread has no interest in copying or profiting from this, other wise he would do like i said and pay for the cylinder work then copy it as many times as he wants

never understood people trying to keep secrets. you would think they might want to help someone trying to learn and give em a few pointers. maybe theyre scared someone will try to profit from their ideas but what they dont realize is with a few simple tools and a bit of knowledge it aint hard to copy someones work. you may not fully understand why things are the way they are but you dont need to understand it to copy it

do you know what the trex timings are or you havent checked yet ? widening the transfers is typically never a bad idea. alot of times you can squeek out alittle bit more width in the center of the two windows at the bridge area. usually get alittle bit more width at the rear wall of the rear port but youll probly have to recut the hook to your desired angle, assuming it has a hook but im sure it does. might be able to do alittle bit of work on the front port regarding the width. alot of this stuff you just have to take a look and make a judgement call of what you can and cant do. maybe theres not enough material in a certain area to do any grinding so just cross that bridge when you get there. i never dealt with trex cylinders before so i dont have specific info to them but alot of modifications work well across the board on other engines. staggering trans roofs works well on other engines. ive did it on a few hondas before. cant say for sure how well it would do on yours though. if nobody can say specifically if it works on the trex then you might have to just try it and see. when i port my stockers ill be doing a stagger. most likely with rears opening first. on the transfer roof upward angles, generally the front port should alsways have more up angle than the rear but since your tunells appear to be nearly straight up and then turn, alittle extra up angle on all the transfers should help reduce some of the sharp turn into the cylinder. do you know what the upward angles are as of right now ? on the exh i like to keep my aux windows a couple degrees below the main window

let me ask a few things. 1-5 N down would meen the nuetral is positioned below first gear ? on a 1-5 N down is it mandatory to launch in first gear or could it launch in 2nd also ? seems like first gear is pretty low so maybe 2nd gear launch would be better but i guess it depends on the engine and tire size. mostly i would be riding at sand mnt utah so i guess i would need atleast 4 overide gears but im not real sure. maybe i would need 5 ? is wicked legitimate or a shady outfit ? just trying to get a idea of who will do a good job and the trans will shift well. and like i said already i dont wanna fool with chasing parts down. aint got time for that nonsense

not worried about saving a couple bucks. dont wanna have to chase down my parts

does any of the sponsors do a good job making a overide or no ? sending my stuff to a shady character is out of the question

ok nuetral down meens all the gears would be above that position, i understand that. how would you accomplish that on a 1-5, do you have to rotate the star on the drum or is the drum chanells modified so the forks can go alittle bit below first gear ? if it was nuetral down 2-5 i guess you could just weld the shift drum chanells so the forks couldnt go below the normal nuetral position. is the purpose of nuetral down just so you wont have to shift through a nuetral ? why couldnt you use a shift pro with overide ? from what i understand, the shift pro is just a arm with ball bearing roller, alittle wider than the stock arm roller. i dont see how the shift pro would keep the overide from functioning normal why wouldnt you use a modded shift star ? would the trans jump out of gear or something else ? trying to make sense of this stuff

new to this stuff but i understand what the purpose of a overide is but im wondering if you use a shift pro and modded star with it also ? what does nuetral down meen ? typically on a overide do you still pull up on the gear lever to upshift ?

by the amount of dirt in there it appears the previous owner didnt have them either