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without some kind of hole the bearing would be mostly sealed off from any lubrication as the distance between the crank web and bearing is pretty small

this isnt a garden where oil slowly drips down that hole from the trough. the airspeed is far too great for that to happen. now if you were to idle the engine for 30min then shut it off , possibly enough oil would have collected in the trough that gravity would pull it down the hole but this is a rediculous scenario anyways tricked if you look at how the hole is positioned, it allows fuel mixture to pass through the bearing, from the interface of the bearing and crank web to the top of the transfer area . all 2t engines ive seen are configured this same way regarding the hole. i hope hp2000 doesnt mind i borrowed his picture for illistration

i wondered what the hell that little screw was for. nuetral light on a street bike makes perfect sense since that plastic cover was probly used on several other yamaha engines

without the hole im not sure what would happen as ive never tried to plug it. i suspect there wouldnt be much fuel mixture circulation through the bearing. epoxy was moroso a=b but any decent epoxy will work. could even weld that area which might be the best idea

got 6days vacation starting tuesday so i should be able to finish all this shit and cut in the aux exh ports

stay tuned for next chapter crankcases

theres a bunch of epoxy all over the place . this cylinder is just a junker im messing around with so i have a clue what im doing when i tear into my good engine.

do you reckon this boyesen is sufficient

i thought about modifying some stock cages but said hell with it and just got vf4 instead. anyways i was looking and the stopper on the stock cage blocks off nearly half the boost port. vf4 doesnt cause this same problem so maybe the boost port can do its job a bit better

you dissin all the guys puttin boyesen and tripple ports in these 1975 era cylinders

thats kinda funny. probly happens more than people think

so i cut the side off

i dont give a shit no more. you can hold his hand through this . if people cant help theirself alittle then fuk it

he wanted racelogic templates. anyone with IQ over 3 would have thought to check that website. but that wasnt the case so i responded with 'check racelogic.com' and he is hell bent on templates. he clearly asks on the first post if someone has them or where he could buy them

at no time did the OP say he wanted to learn anything, other wise the advice given would have been different. it takes time and money to learn this stuff. if you have little of both you may as well hang it up and let a shop do the work. $400 wont get you much, barely a good motor and straight hand piece. another $400 and youll have a small collection of half decent tools, but not nearly a full complete assortment. im into mine alittle over a grand and dont have a tiny 90* tool for small cylinders yet. still the tool is only affective as the person using it. and learning to use it takes a fair bit of time. so the time and money go hand in hand. this is the reality of it. very few folks want to learn. even fewer want to pony up the money it takes to buy the tools.

i doubt hes wanting to learn the how, what and why. but rather just grind alittle here and there and make the bike a bit faster than it is now. besides, without a decent tool setup you cant just jump in head first. while i havent seen the racelogic templates, i assume it should have a decent exh shape that even a beginner can copy with a simple dremel and get noticable results. make the inlet windows alittle bigger and that should work fine for what hes trying to do

racelogic.com thats where i would look. but what ever you do, for fuck sakes just dont knife edge everything like alot of guys do

the horizontal chanell ill do away with. not the vertical one. forgot to clarify that. anyways i rounded up a bunch of junk parts to chop up so i can get a game plan what to do on my good engine. spent last few nights gathering general info. angles, when the windows open, shit like that

gonna do some work on my cases. ill be eliminating the chanell that some people say is for dripping oil on the bearing while i think of it, if anyone gives a shit, the volume of everything under the piston at tdc with 64x54 oem crank, rod, piston, base gasket, reed block, unported cylinder is about 685cc

ill tell you straight up, since most these guys are like a broken record and just say send it across country to a site sponsor for a 5 min job. if your simply wanting to match a stock cylinder bottom the the top of a stock case, any blind monkey can do it, even with a hand file if you dont have a dremel handy. but most likely there will be hardly any mismatch anyways, so its hardly worth the trouble by itself. its unfortunate nobody nowdays can do a simple job like this without somebody holding their hand

just go on ebay and get the matoon plate then call it a day. thats the one i went with and its a nice unit

red loctite ? fuck oh mighty that stuff aint necesarry but ya cast stuff is sometimes junk. it may have been made in china as well

i never understood what bigbore smallbore meant. is it just refering to stinger diamater ?

yes sir. plated with the finest iron available in 1987. not much has changed since