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jap bikes aint bad. atleast the honda and yamaha. cant say i would ever want a kawi or suzuki. still ill take a newer model ktm anyday over a jap machine but thats just me. some have electirc start but i never had a desire for it. adds weight and the engine starts within a couple kicks so i never seen much point in it if you want 6spd youll need to get a newer engine. cant recall exact year off top of my head. might of been '11+. theres 2 versions of the 6spd. a fairly close ratio with eqaully spaced gears and the other one has a bit wider gaps on some of the gears. and you have a close ratio 5spd also. hottest setup is the 250sx with 300 cylinder. thats what i did and im happy with it. havent done any engine work yet and its got quit a bit of power. even without the 300 cylinder they run darn good with a hair less torq
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nice thing about ktm is you got 3 different gear boxes with either 5 or 6 gears. adjustable PV and a bunch of other shit you can do to them. few different heads. a pile of different cdi boxes. few different crankshafts
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eh if your going that far may as well use a ktm 300. i think the newest generation cylinder '12+ will fit on the '03+ lowerend
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for the most part thats why i gave up on them big singles and figured i would give the banshee a go. them big engines never seem to run as good as you would hope
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oh i thought they had sleeves from the factory. then again i know hardly nothing about suzuki atv's.
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blaster was a disaster. 15hp, 200cc and aircooled to add insult on top of it didnt know about a gasgas atv. it might be half decent lt500 sank in '91. never understood why they used sleeves in the bearing bores.
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its possible they have 200 waiting in line. wouldnt suprise me if they did. wouldnt suprise me if they wont touch a wang either. if its considered a throw away crank they might not bother
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besides the banshee when was the last 2t 4wheeler ? 1992 or something like that. i wouldnt plan on seeing anything new in your life time outboards, snomos and dirtbikes seem to be going forward just fine with 2t development
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ive got the run around from them before also. seems like i waited over 2 months one time but the crank needed special machine work so it was understandable. but for just a standard rebuild i dont recall ever waiting over a month. you also have to factor in their work load at that particular time. if they have 20 cranks ahead of yours then it may take a while. fastest one i remember was about 2 weeks. if you dont need it done right away then i wouldnt hesitate to send it to CW. even at a high work load i cant see it taking longer than 2 months for a standard rebuild
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CW is hit and miss on the turn around time. ive had some get back to me in about 2 weeks but others ive waited well over a month
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alot of shops dont have a clue. call crankworks
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excuse me i meant if you want 115 youll probly have to use hotrods
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piece by piece ? fuk theres only 4 bearings and 2 rods. put any bearings you want on there, skf, koyo, ntn. whatever. i prefer prox rods generally but if you want 120mm youll probly have to use hotrods
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alot of stuff we never hear about but you can be sure the developing has been going on for quit some time from several manufacturers http://www.enduro21.com/index.php/component/k2/item/2210-first-look-–-sherco’s-300-se-r-fuel-injection
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smart carb has claimed alot of shit. some of it is probly true and perhaps even alittle sugar coated to be more appealing to a customer. but still to this day people are having trouble with that carb, dont be fooled to think other wise. when something as simple as the tipover balls can malfunction and flood the crankcase resulting in blowing the reeds out, that meens theres still engineering work to be done. the ktm 2t market is strong. stronger than its ever been. and its only getting better because ktm is still dumping money into future development.
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direct injection has been knocking on the door for a while and i think ktm is ready to turn the corner. possibly 2016. but even if they stay with the carb for a while longer their bikes are still in high demand
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i go down sand mnt several times a year and it seems to have died off. mostly just 4pokes and other queer shit now
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Gear on crank stuck
registered user replied to nito.hernandez1's topic in General Banshee Discussion
this piece of shit is probly made in china but you get the idea what tool to use. a good brand like proto or similar is far to expensive for a one time use. find a local mechanic to do it. take less than 5min to get it off -
Gear on crank stuck
registered user replied to nito.hernandez1's topic in General Banshee Discussion
hmm i bet the gear is supposed to just slide off. must have got a bit of corrosion going on. anyways something like this will get it off in a jiffy. the tools aint worth buying for a one time use but maybe a local mechanic shop will do the job for a couple dollars https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrTcXjzrXZU8W4AYi2JzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTIzMGg2bGFkBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAM4YjRkYjNkMmI4NDUyMzM5ODRiMDJiMGQyNDg1Y2VmOARncG9zAzU3BGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3F_adv_prop%3Dimage%26va%3Dbearing%2Bseparator%2Bwith%2Bpuller%2Battached%26fr%3Dslv1-tyc8%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D57&w=410&h=500&imgurl=www.benzworld.org%2Fforums%2Fattachments%2Fw123-e-ce-d-cd-td%2F502819d1363662093t-selection-pullers-rear-wheel-bearings-hubs-bearing-separator-3.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.benzworld.org%2Fforums%2Fw123-e-ce-d-cd-td%2F1702795-selection-pullers-rear-wheel-bearings-hubs.html&size=20.6KB&name=...+of+pullers+for+rear+wheel+bearings+and+hubs-bearing<%2Fb>-separator<%2Fb>-3.jpg&p=bearing+separator+with+puller+attached&oid=8b4db3d2b845233984b02b0d2485cef8&fr2=&fr=slv1-tyc8&tt=...+of+pullers+for+rear+wheel+bearings+and+hubs-bearing<%2Fb>-separator<%2Fb>-3.jpg&b=0∋=96&no=57&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=1390m9ntk&sigb=146sqqggd&sigi=14cetk6sr&sigt=12lqp6oeb&sign=12lqp6oeb&.crumb=l8ocyLj6iNd&fr=slv1-tyc8 -
dude in the video claims better fuel economy, emissions bla bla. but theres still alot of people having problems. i cant see wasting the money for one
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for the most part the oil just passes through the engine with little chance of staying behind and collecting in any one area. even though it takes several cycles for a gulp of fuel mixture to reach the cylinder, it still gets there rather quickly. 10k rpm is 167 revolutions per second. even if the fuel mix takes 4 revolutions to reach the cylinder, its only sitting in the crankcase for 24 thousandths of a second. hardy enough time to gravity feed down to the bearing
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theyre oil feed holes alright ! if you look at the crank webs youll notice a raised shoulder where the bearing sits against. this creates a small space between the web and bearing, approx .5mm-1mm. the crankcase is a continuos fluxuation of high and low pressure through each cycle. which meens everything starts at the carb and works its way toward the cylinder. this meens with the small gap between the web/bearing, surely there is a scavenging of fuel mix through the bearing and out the hole.