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i dont agree with most of what KOC does but he has some decent pointers for simple shit like scribing lines and stuff like that. i prefer a fine point marker but dyken blue and a scribe aint a bad way to learn either. eventually youll find you own methods how to do everything

copying some one elses work is gay

get some junk cylinders that need resleeved from here or ebay and use them for practice. dont need to be matching sets. a couple left or right sides would do. shouldnt be more than 20 or $30 a piece

does anyone know if this is a wang crank ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamaha-Banshee-350-Replacement-Crank-Shaft-Crankshaft-Welded-Trued-1987-2013-/290836942142?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b73b8d3e&vxp=mtr reason i ask is because i think it uses the same rods as what competitive crank is using which is kingrods. according to the kingrod website (taiwanconrod) i think theres a 29L or 29LR stamped on the side. wasnt sure if these are the wangs or not

what you think of this. never heard of em http://www.taiwanconnrod.com/

got a link

crankworks will tell you different things depending who answers the phone. some employees are just there to sweep floors and answer phones. since the center bearings are so close together 8balls would likely hold up fine but i dont see a problem using 10balls either. im not buying their story that 10balls makes the crank to stiff unless you have junk pins. hell i seen wiseco single break in half so i know some metal is inferior

if i loaned out my junk and they put amsoil in it they would get a good kick in the nuts

first things first. at a minimum you need atleast a half ass tool setup. if not then throw in the towel now. if you got a few tools then proceede and do some research. books aint a bad idea. maybe even some templates. atleast youll get familiar with marking lines and simple shit like that. most the books will show you how to do a chamfer on the windows etc. figuring out the windows heights isnt a job for a amatuer and thats where predetermined templates can be handy until you get more familiar with everything. if your only reason is to save money then i think your heading in the wrong direction.

why discourage people that want to do work theirself. not everyone strives to be a nutswinger

if you have some half decent tools like pencil grinders and such then i dont see what you have to lose. another set of cylinders is only $125 or so. aint like your refinancing the house to get more cylinders. just dont get stupid with the grinder and you should be fine. the biggest problem is people try to do this stuff with just a dremel and 1 old worn out bit. that has fail written all over it

that aint a bad plan. are those the gold rods ? no way im using the grey ones from taiwan

what tools do you have ? if you have some decent tools theres no reason you shouldnt do it. worst case scenario you totally fuck it up and need new cylinders but theyre dirtcheap so it wont matter. if your smarter than a monkey you should be fine

if i was gonna go to all that trouble i would rather relocate the holes on prox webs as they can be bought diassembled and the rod pin isnt cast into the web. i dont believe theyre keyed in the center though. i like the vitos idea with a key. theres alot of different +4 crank options. vitos, hotrods, wiseco, wsm, crankworks, theres even a few more no name brands. for the price im liking the vitos

i like to use prox rods when ever possible. just my preference. vitos are likely just as strong from the looks of it thats fine if vitos wont sell just the webs. maybe he can ship it unwelded. if not ill be grinding welds i guess. i have my own preference for bearings also. thinking of a tz on both ends. maybe 10balls in the center

ill talk with vitos and see if he can send it unwelded. unless he might just sell the webs but im doubting he will do that

if i was gonna bother stroking stock webs i would rather use prox webs instead. likely theyre from japan also. its a shame the oem crank has the rod pin built into the web. guess you could cut it off and machine a new hole. think ill just go with vitos http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11466&cat=200&page=1 you can have the rods. im sure theyre plenty strong.

im leaning toward the vitos. can get one to my door for $400 if everyone wants to use hotrods thats fine. im just going a different direction. why bash a guy for that

if people werent such douchbags i would be happy to let you know. i ask a simple question and everyone jumps my ass because i dont use the same parts that joe blow builder and all his customers use. i dont give a shit about joe blow builder and his 5000hp engine

what part of 'im not gonna use hotrods stuff' dont you understand ?

fuck hotrods. you guys can use that shit if you want but im gonna use better stuff. just in the last 2 weeks i seen 2 hotrods cranks with broke rods. look around here. probly 50 bent, broke, destroyed hotrods. maybe the new gold rods are better than the junk grey taiwan rods. or maybe not. i could care less. never liked hotrods and im not gonna use their products. if you have pertinat info to the original question then post it. otherwise STFU

thats why im taking a new one apart. got some different rods and bearings that i want to install. last thing i need is a rod letting go and destroying everything. do you know if the center pin on the wsm have a key or some other locating device to keep both webs in phase ?

anybody have direct experience with the +4 wsm forged crank from tdr or the vitos +4 ? not concearned about the case bearings or rods as ill pull it apart and use my own rods and case bearings. just wondering if the webs and center pin on either of these cranks are good. crankworks is saying $1000 for their billet +4 webs so im looking for a cheaper option that would still hold up

not sure who did this one http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=92161

well maybe i do care who makes the nut. dont want nothin from china or taiwan