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not specificly comparing 110 to 115 but it shows a general idea what happens when rod lengths change

calculate all you want but as engine speeds increase the piston gets closer to the head and thus changing your squish action. if you want a hands on approach then get a cool head or any head with removable domes then get a few blank domes and cut some different configurations

dwell, acceleration and a few other things will be slightly different between the two rods but when comparing 110 vs 115 the differences would be pretty negligable. personally i dont see any reason to use the shorter rod if given the choice. the performance difference probly wouldnt even be noticable but youll have a bit less angle with the longer rod. over time im sure there would be a hair less fatigue on the piston, bearings, cylinders walls etc. hard to say if it would amount to much but it certainly wouldnt hurt

i dont think anybody would expect +10hp from a slightly bigger reed block. 1.5hp sounds about right. i guess it depends how much free time you have and if its worth the effort. my self i wouldnt bother with it not a fan of standard V shaped blocks either. would rather have a vf style. banshee oem block has some of the same problems ive seen on other jap engines. stopper plugs off the boost port. it could be modified but i doubt youd gain much. still rather have the vf style

nice work. thats the aproach i took also. weld the pockets then the boyesens can be made rather large. still i didnt stop there. did some calculations and even with large boyesens i didnt feel it was enough. just my thoughts ive even heard of people welding on larger reed cages but thats alittle more involved than i wanna get

if i had that cnc a modern day set of case reed crankcases for a twin cylinder is what i'd be doing. if the boss didnt like it i'd tell him to GTFO

good advice ^

i tried calling about pipes not long ago. he didnt answer the phone or call back. must have bigger fish to fry. ill probly try back again or email. sounds like his pipes are the best. sure do look good thats for sure

probly the same guys that never picked up a porting tool but pretend like they know how to do it. ya theres a few of them around here

how sweet you two knot heads are trying to save the world from buying parts they dont need. i appreciate the concearn. run along now and go bother someone else

cool. im ready to buy a cover soon as you get them nuts back. let me know

Whitbread did a good job. Thats similar to how I did em. Its alot of work for sure. Cant believe nobody snatched em at $350

herb 64mm is the nominal size. actual diameter will be different. to check 1 or 2 pistons the tools arent worth buying or worth learning how to use them. go to a local machine shop with a 6pak and they should do it

i think one of your measurments is alittle off or you mistyped

find some good used cubs. youll be money ahead and less grief

they can be a fun project when you go at your own leisurly pace. not sure how everyone else does em but how i did em there just isnt no money to be made. plus i dont need someone blowin up my phone everyday askin when their stuff will be done

you can put triples in oem sleeves. did a set for myself at 64.5. to duplicate them for someone else they would be looking at a G minimum and honestly not even sure i would do another set regardless of price. it aint bad when your doing it for yourself and can go at your own pace but having someone breathing down your neck wanting their parts yesterday aint my idea of fun. your better off with cubs for numerous reasons. unless you got a bunch of money falling out of your ass and simply just want something different that hardly nobody else has. maybe theres a few shops that would do it but i doubt it would be cheap. then again most shops might not want the headache either.

dont worry about what i got

you meen choked worse than they already are. its a shame yamaha didnt widen the bores another 20mm or so

will you have extra nuts so if we buy the cover from ebay we get a nut with it ? been ready to buy for months but without a nut i figured i would just hold off

if theyre stainless steel washers those aint worth a shit because they wont smash. ace hardware might have copper

bullshit you guys be lying. resoviors for oil

only a couple people around here do their own stuff. not sure why the rest even bothered posting. just to hassle folks i guess. personally i wouldnt pay much attention to what KOC says. have a gander through some of the books. most can be found on pdf

whats the word on this competetive crank stuff. whos making their webs. will they sell as unassembled sets

everybody starts off not knowing anything. even the sponsors. whether they wanna admit it or not