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a pipe expert im not but even a monkey can understand the basics. seems your having a hard time even grasping that much. if you want a 20pg lecture on gas dynamics then im not your guy. zilla freak said he was a engineer. surely he must know alittle about the subject ?

sometimes, ok most of the time, it seems like im talking to a bunch of kids. having not seen the pipes your refering to but ill take a shot in the dark anyways. likely not one section of the pipes are the same in length, diamter, angle, (except probly the section where it connects to the manifold) so they likely require different stinger diam. ive seen mikes pipes for other engines and theyre a bit longer with shallower angles than what you might typically see from someone else. he has his own methods. if some of you guys would spend less time talking, saying stupid shit, and more time reading you would be alot smarter. probly 100 books on expansion chambers. rule number one, stinger length is mostly unimportant.

the important part isnt the length. whether its 8" or 12" wont make a shit difference in power. you dont know much about expansion chambers i take it ? what matters is the ID. i suggested a stinger configuration to direct the sound away from the rider as much as possible in case he wants to have some sort half decent hearing 20yrs down the road. put it right next to your leg for all i give a fugg.

length isnt real important but if you can make them long enough so the exit is behind the rider as much as possible and even turn them outword then it should direct some of the noise away from the rider

i think i see what your saying. mixture would go through the boyesen then turn and go through the hole in the sleeve then end up under the piston. interesting. i wonder if raising the 2 main inlet windows would accomplish the same thing

by the time the piston top edge is uncovering the trans windows, just the opposite is happening down below, the piston sides are covering the holes in the sleeve. thats why i was wondering what the theory was

whats the theory on the holes in the sleeve leading to the rear trans ?

a ball is a poor design. even honda used it way back 30yrs ago or so. eventually they wised up and implemented a pancake setup. i suggest you do the same. matter of fact im using honda setup in my banshee. dont tell nobody though

they resleeves or originals ?

ill take your word theyre 12x1.25 . thats a good size bolt. how the hell did you strip it

300 will probly run like a bag of turds but atleast it will give you good experience what not to do. personally i wouldnt touch a thing but go up a size or two if it would make you feel better. see how it sounds and make adjustments as needed. if youve got tuning experience on other stuff then it should be just another day at the office

cool. you get any jugs with it ?

your bike seems to run fine. so youve answered your own question. go ride man

generally on heads with no locating dowels you machine the chamber diameter just a hair bigger than the cylinder bore to account for any slop when the head is bolted on. that way you dont end up with the mating surface hanging into the bore. be sure you know the bore size other wise youll bring undo grief upon yourself. and dont tell them you want 165psi. best to just let them do all the thinking and you worry about the assembling

whats your reasoning for wanting 165 compression ? you dont want any of the head flat surface hanging into the bore so 64mm domes would be a bad move, if thats what you ment by using normal domes ? if the exh port is hogged out then its likely your compression ratio would be through the roof to get 165psi. if you have a competant shop in the area you might wanna have them take a look before you get headed to far in the wrong direction

yup. no need to even get pencil and paper out anymore

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_en.asp?type=180degstraight

put it in 5 or 6 gear and hold the brake. torq nut. done

as the a/f ratio leans out your exh gas temp goes up. i dont see how that eqauls a cold pipe. sounds to me like you have a spark problem on the cold side

torq wrench is a good tool to have around. got several myself

you bought a crows foot like the ebay link 2 posts above ? i sure hope you didnt buy that one. those aint worth a shit for cylinder nuts

never heard that adaptor i posted refered to as a crows foot. this is the only crows foot i know, certainly you wouldnt want to use this tool http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Snap-On-Open-Crowsfoot-TMCOM12-1-4Dr-12mm-USA-/331495549953?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d2eacac01 definatly you have to factor in the length of the adaptor or as larry calls it a crows foot, other wise your real torq will be off

$14 is cheap. snapon probly would be $35

why not put something like this on the end of your torq wrench http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-Torque-Adapter-Wrench-Motorcycle-Tool-12-pt-3-8-Drive-Life-Time-Warranty-/201317429268?hash=item2edf743014&vxp=mtr

making sure all ports are symetrical is a good idea. mentioned a paperclip onetime and everyone laughed it up (except camatv). frikin parts changers anyways