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im not one bit impressed with coolhead. using oem head here

when i see random bolts, usually the wrong size, in odd places.. im not the least bit suprised. actually i expect it, because most people in the powersports scene are mickey mouse wanker motherfuckers that cant do even simple shit right

on a standard trans you shouldnt need to use the clutch while shifting as long as there isnt a bunch of torq on the gear dogs. try letting off the gas just a hair then lifting the shifter. if its hard to shift no matter what, then i would almost say you may have something wrong with the drum or forks as for hard to get in nuetral while running, sounds like your basket and hub arent seperating from each other, for what ever reason. warped plates, clutch not adjusted correct, basket grooved etc

is calvins castings so terrible that you would gain anything from a so called cleanup ? im highly doubting it. knife edging the divider is not cleaning up or doing any good.

heres the reality of it. besides it being absolutely necesarry to chamfer the windows i would also recomend having a close look at everything. the sleeve windows werent cast symetric as you can see the right rear window is nearly 3.5mm narrower than the opposing side. for me this isnt any concearn as ill have my porting tools in there soon enough but for the people that try to run them out of the box, you might think twice. with the mismatch asymetric stuff ive seen so far they wouldnt run real well without some cleanup. i havent yet checked if the bore center line is true to where its supposed to be but if it checks out ok then the other issues are fairly minor

it was a honest review of what i saw with my own eyes. didnt say nothing negative that wasnt true. for $300 there isnt much to complain about. theres a couple things about them i like better than stockers but still theres a few things i would of done different. theyre a good platform to start with if a person wants to use stock type cylinders but as theyre sent out they are a bit rough around the edges but again for $300 its tough to complain. atleast they didnt do what athena did and jump right to 68mm, which gains you almost nothing but a heavier piston and empty your wallet $700

had a chance to get a birds eye view of these reproduction cylinders and heres my .02. if you can pick up a oem set at 64mm for under $300 then go that route instead. if your looking for something around 64mm and cant wait for a good set of 64 oem's to pop up then these are a decent option and wont break the bank at $300 a pair. the casting qaulity is about what i expected, not excellent but not the worst, given the price it would be hard to complain to much. the sleeve windows dont match for shit to the casting but thats to be expected. ive seen oem honda stuff that dont match for shit either. most people wouldnt notice this stuff because they wouldnt know what they were looking for, i suspect this is why a few guys said their cylinders looked great. at a very minimum they need the windows chamfered, a clean up wouldnt be a bad idea either if you dont opt for some port work. the rear stud pockets on the inboard side arent empty like the stockers so thats a bonus and will reduce some weld time. outboard side still needs welded though. trench between transfers is filled in also which will save some more welding time. still i think they should have done a few things different but it is what it is. overall they seem to be a decent bargain just from looking at em

it could be a stock stroke with 115 rods and using a spacer. i didnt know you had a spacer as most people dont use them. i dont keep up with the numbering system cast into the rod because every manufacturer has their own system of numbers. wiseco, wang, king rods, oem, prox, hotrods... they all have a manufacturer specific number. i have no idea what Y29L meens or what manufacturer it is. im sure somebody around here knows. that would tell you what rod it is

513 on the top of your piston tells you everything you need to know. if it were a +4 crank with 115 rod you would have a bunch of piston sticking out the top or a spacer under the cylinder. ill guess you have a standard crank with 110 rod.

nobody was taking poke at the chinese bore gauge recomendation, atleast i wasnt. i was merely saying to look through ebay first. often times youll find someone unloading a garage full of good qaulity tools at great prices. ive seen first hand the chinese bore gauges, mics and bearing splitters. the qaulity is very very poor. the mitutoyo bore gauge is not a rebadged shars (chinese), i can asure you of that. all the mitutoyo stuff ive seen is japan but they may have a few items made in china, its hard to say. if you cant locate any good deals on the higher qaulity tools then go for the chinese piece. it will get the job done but dont expect to ever be able to sell it down the road, they arent hardly worth the plastic case theyre shipped in fowler isnt terribly expensive and certainly better than shars but still its near the bottom of the barell. if your going super cheap i would probly go with fowler. the dial indicator portion of the bore gauge on the shars brand from ebay doesnt even return to 0 correctly most the time. youll take a reading and the needle sticks

chinese bore gauges will likely get the job done but have a look through ebay first. many times you can find great deals on used mitutoyo stuff. sure it may have been dropped a time or two but its probly still as accurate as the chinese stuff . chinese stuff should be your last resort if all else fails and your broke

and crack the intake bridge or boost port

a bellmouth inlet tube(s) would be much better than a simple lid with holes but it all depends what your trying to accomplish. if your just wanting to keep mud out with no regard to performance then you wont need to put much thought into the design. lid with holes may still allow mud to fall ontop of your filter, something like a stock airbox would be better than a lid with holes. if you use inlet bellmouth tubes be sure the radius isnt to sharp or the air dettaches as it turns the corner into the tube itself

got a few mull items also and theyre pretty sweet. hey mull while im thinking of it, if i sent you my stock head and the specs i needed it cut to, would the price be $104.99 per your website or is the price more for specialized work ?

are you doing more or less just something to enclose the filter and keep mud out ? i dont have to deal with mud or water so im gonna make more of a tuned airbox. not sure yet what material ill use but i was leaning towards plastic and welding it together. my only concearn is plastic welding might not be suitable for this type of application. theres only one way to find out i guess

almost forgot to put in my .02 on your question. sounds like youve idled it in the garage more than enough. maybe even to much lol. just ride now. dont bother looking at a spark plug that yourve idled on for 5min. why your swapping between oil ratios makes no sense to me. cant help ya on exact jet sizes but this stuff aint to difficult. throw some in and see how it runs, adjust accordingly

why are you suprised at the responses. you been here long enough to know that many members are of very little help. its been said numerous times that theres nearly zero good solid tech info in recent memory because when somebody posts something they immediatly get flamed. then the next guy that has good info has second thoughts and never posts. i had people tell me they use this site for nothing more than buying parts as they could care less to make any posts and get pissed on. like the other topic on airboxes. if you understand how they work then you will know their value, which is more than keeping water off the filter but if someone were to post info going against the grain then they instantly get flamed

100 pesos says this is a member. maybe deadbeat ?

you meen because on most domed head chambers the squish band doesnt truely follow the radius of the piston top ? you could machine a radius into the band to match the piston top if you wanted. out of convenience i think most shops just dont bother doing it. theres alot of debate which piston type is better. domed supposedly will be cooled better as the mixture follows the crown and thus less detontation but theres a lot of debate on this subject as many people have tested the bejeezuz out of flat tops and havent encountered any increase in deto. it may boil down to case by case basis as no two situations are likely to be the same. if i were to make a dome piston i probly wouldnt exceed 10* but thats just me. if you look at what happens in the first few nanoseconds as the piston uncovers the port window i think the flatop has a slight advantage but in the big picture i dont think theres a hell of alot of difference in either piston type

what nobody usin the new flatops ?? man you be ballin with this shit

big singles run decent on the top if you know what your doing. eric gorr meh. he does alot of trail stuff but for anything else i wouldnt even bother calling him

deadbeat wouldnt know which end of the porting tool to pickup first lol.

dont be mad brah.

this one i designed around a 373cc. all the length and diam values have been removed for obvious reasons but you get the idea what it looks like

if exit diameter of the end cone is somewhat close to correct then stinger length will matter very little. i suspect if various stinger lengths were affecting the pipes performance then the restriction at the last cone probly wasnt correct to begin with. ive got a ton of literature by the leading most authorities regarding expansion chambers so i know a couple things about it