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epoxy. honda jug

i prefer not show any of my banshee stuff but this is a before -after of another engine i did couple years ago. ive tried quit a few combinations of different ideas

if you look at most any of the heads he sells its just like someone took a jackhammer to em

in old engines like these that date back to the 70's theres hidden power all over the place. some of it is right in plain sight but the majority of people are oblivious to it. even simple shit like reducing friction loss in a couple areas has measurable power increase if the intake was largely unimportant then so to would be the reedvalve

buy a few junk cylinders to practice grinding. they can be any type of cylinder. just look for blown up junk of ebay or local classifieds. if youve done a few engines already it doesnt hurt to have even more practice. hind sight is always 20/20 but if you do this youll end up with less mistakes on your good cylinders

$700 wont even get you a bunch of used junk from minkia38

with ported heads how can you go wrong. dude sounds like a doofus

im talking about the gauge not the block. eddie just uses the cheapest gauge on ebay from china. i had one and the fluid leaked out for no reason. if your gonna use that style of setup then just ask eddie to sell the block and get a good gauge. just my opinion. fuck china and their garbage

try turning the clutch shaft while shifting it. they usually wont shift through the gears without the shaft spinning

meh the gauge esr uses isnt that great. better off asking eddie if he'll sell just the block and get a marshall gauge. be warned the block spigots are a fair bit smaller than the hose ID so you have to tighten the hell out of the clamps or it will leak

you live near any big cliffs to push it off ?

mechanic 32yrs, owned nearly every machine under the sun, rebuilt 250r,yz250 and you ask multiple times what oil mix to use ? unbelievable

if theres no foriegn material indentations in the head or piston top then you can forget that idea. main jet falling out would only cause the engine to run like a turd. gas engines have a low tolerance of being over fueled, you would know right away if it fell out. the rod may have simply been stressed to far, especially if you had big ass heavy pistons. the rod has to deal with alot more push pull forces than people realise

brettsand do you have any links that show the class breakdown and any rules regarding the engine ?

anymore its near impossible to say where some of these crank components are made but you can be sure some of them are using subpar materials and workmanship. of all the mainstream +4 webs (and theres several out there) i would have to go with hotrods until i see a reason not to. i dont think the snout should have broke that easy but im sure you learned a good lesson about impact guns. atleast it broke now and not at full song

im doubting it was running well after going from 1000 to 6500. likely way over fueled i would guess

yep and if you look into predetonation there is no such thing

Predetonation Lol

unless the engine is new and never ran, youll see it spooging gas from the suspect leak area along with dirt collecting. if the flywheel seal is leaking youll see gas sitting in the bottom of the stator housing when you pull the cover off. why over complicate a simple thing

ya and still nobody is helping him. oh wait you did tell him to chamber the ports hahaha like i tell everyone else, pick up some used tools from ebay and a few sets of used up jugs at $30/pair and practice a bit before touching your good parts

why is it everyone proclaims how they know their way around these engines but then go and pump up the crankcase to find a cooling system problem 6psi most likely wont be enough to detect a leak in the cooling section, thats if you werent too stupid to leave the piston above the ports, like i said before. if there is some kind of leak then chances are you wont know if its in the head, crank seals, reed area or mating surfaces of the crankcase. by pressuring the system at the radiator youve isolated the test to only the cooling system, as thats where your trying to test for leaks. FFS pump it to 15psi and wait a minute or so. if theres no drop your good. if it drops youll either see evidence on the exterior somewhere, otherwise it will be on the interior which meens the inner oring. pull the head and replace orings. DONE this is just common sense shit a kid could understand

wtf . hook a cooling system tester up if you want to find a leak. pressuring up the engine side likely wont do any good as your only typically using 6psi or less. besides that, if your dumb youll have the piston above the ports so no air pressure will get to the head anyways hahah

Probably right but thats still 10hp more than you got. Buwahahha

wait you dont need all that shit. stock rods good to 120hp deadbeat numbnuts said

im sure that twister is made well. larger diam webs and plenty of material above the pin. for some reason i thought you would try and use stock case but that was a good choice with the matoons