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almost looks like oem cylinders but im old and blind so i could be wrong

im sure everyones seen this. http://www.2strokeheads.com/tech2.htm. one thing it doesnt mention is the dynamic pressure of a engine with powervalve vs fixed port. if you think about how the engine works what are you/we/us accomplishing by testing it in a non running state. except to gauge wear of the top end

i dont know man. people saying 180 is to high. 125 is a rebuild. 148 needs race gas. internet has corrupted peoples minds as far as im concearned. someone tell me how cylinder pressure at 200rpm meens jack shit

sure its a good reference if you want to know how the engine is wearing. not sure what math your talking about. convert psi to comp ratio or any other usefull info..... report back when you have a answer

if you want to know what most 250 engines are just stroll through thumper talk. i can tell you the ktm is just a couple thousands under .070 if the piston is at zero deck. i have no use for a compression testing but a million guys have posted their results on thumper talk and a few other sites. 180ish range is about what they are

thats why i said typically a 250cc will be in that range. some may be outside that range alittle but probly not by far. the ktm and honda are right in that range. i would bet yamaha and kawi are right there also. your 160 may be a result of a gauge thats slightly off or maybe it really was 160 and thats just how it was back in '86 on that particular engine. hard to say. ive said it a thousand times about static pressure. to me and alot of other people it meens jack shit. the stock 250 engines are low comp ratio even if the static pressure seems otherwise. its still baffling why so many people put such emphasis on what a gauge says

180psi and .070-.080 gap is pretty typical of most any stock 250 engine. comp ratio is likely 11-12:1. jerry hall knows quit a bit on them suzukis. if i were you i'd probly send the parts to him

its a shame guys have to lie to sell stuff. sounds like he pulled your chain a bit

its definatly been ran. you can see where the seal had been riding. it may still be in like new shape, i cant say one way or the other on that aspect but without question that crankshaft has been used

fusion welding is simply using a tig torch with no filler. it melts both sides of the crack together. that method may work fine. ive also read you can use aluminum bronze filler. for that method you would V the crack. a competant welding shop should be able to fix it no problem. the problem you might have is the heat slightly distorting the bore. a hone job or boring to the next size up may or may not be necesarry

eh its only money. blow it all while you can. ill get with STU and go from there

ive seen alot of guys use the spindle mount front wheels but i think the lsr uses a 4 bolt partern up front, atleast thats the kind of hub they install when its new then you could change it to spindle mount later. i havent a clue what roll out meens or what rear wheel size i might need. judging from pics ive seen it appears alot of people use the 8" rears. i say this because you can tell the rear wheel is quit a bit smaller than the 10" fronts. i was gonna talk with bansheehp to get a general idea what kind of power ill be looking at with this engine

hey robert or anyone else. im going to use the jj&a hillshooter axle and was wondering about the wheels. do most people use the 10"x4" fronts and 8"x 8" douglas blue label rears with 4/115 bolt pattern ?

cool ill see what STU has to say. never bought a chassis before, im guessing you get a title and other paper work stating what kind of chassis it is and so you can get it registered with ohv sticker ?

hell ya thats a sweet tool box. everything i own would fit in the top drawer

lone star i suppose. soon as they asnswer the phone

seen a photo of the aero tube and it appears to be a oval tube design. doesnt look real strong. they have another one listed on their site called the 3/4 tube http://lsracing.com/drag-racing-34-tube-drag-swing-arm.166.68.atv-utv-racing i think theres another one they make but im not sure of the name. maybe someone around here knows what its called. looks pretty strong. if you go to the 15th photo the purple triple engine bike http://lsracing.com/drag-racing-atvs.7.gallery

if theres any marks from the flywheel or seals then you know its been ran. hard to tell with the blurry pics

dont know who safarian is. i was thinking the +10 chassis would be good with +8 swinger but hell im new to all this

getting a lsr pretty soon. would a +8 or 10 chassis and +6 or 8 swingarm work good with 400cc engine ? also anybody seen the aerotube swinger they make ? cant find really any good pics of it

run mine out of gass all the time. sounds like you have other problems or toothpicks for rods. besides that the fuel valve is connected to both carbs so they should empty at the same time

i remember seeing something about the slp. probly decent choice if you dont need the engine to rev

you got my attention. whats these good pipes that add 9hp ?

im thinking someone did the work way back in the day. doing something like that today wouldnt make any sense. ktm been using nikisil since '85 and probly even earlier. plus at that time the stroke was nearly 70mm so the sleeve from that time period would be all wrong. its easy enough to take a blank sleeve and cut the windows any where you want ,which is what im thinking they did

some guys have claimed to put a gauge before and after the rad and say there was only a 10* difference but thats hard to believe unless the bike was hardly moving then it makes perfect sense. measuring the water somewhere near where it exits the engine seems most logical to me