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threads don't strip on their own. so clearly it was over torqed at some point. either by you or someone previously. m6 are commonly used on reedvalves and normally call for 5-7ftlb. going beyond 7 is unnesecarry and only asking for trouble. problem with using a ratchet is most people likely go way past 7 without even realizing it

youll want new cushions if theyre melted

obviously you mistaken this place for another site. no bashing or know it alls with 100 miles of here

those old round slides are cheap as peanuts and probly why he suggested them. yz490 round slides could be used as well and theyre nearly as cheap. then again you could use most any carb from 100 different engines. depends what size you want, the brand and how much you want to spend. 80cc bikes are probly around the 28mm range. 125 and 250 are going to be 34mm-38mm. a lot of people don't know it but 125ktm are using bigger carbs than the 250 engine

besides the number of paddles theres also the paddles themselves. hauler, glider,extreme I think are all alittle different. then theres tire height, diameter, rollout what ever the hell you wanna label it. bike and rider weight. engine power. clutching setup. believe it or not theres different kinds of sand. is it flat 300' or 600' up a hill. this is some of the variables that affect gearing choice but from the sounds of it your bike is a million miles from being a dragster so I wouldn't spend to much money or time sorting it out. get a couple $15 sprockets and call it a day

but can your truck do this . from the factory theyre over 500 on the RTI

really any machine shop could make the sleeves. getting the fit between the sleeve and cylinder is the critical part otherwise the sleeve moves around when the engine gets hot

cant remember his name but some dude cuts any sleeve you need and installs them because the slip fit has to be correct. im thinking he does the sleeve on a lathe then the windows on a mill

famous last words right before they get slapped back to reality "I don't care about cost"

if you let it sit for any amount of time its probly best to drain the bowls of purge gas. other wise you may end up with oil sludge after the gas evaporates. this may have been why you had problems. I had a simple method that worked everytime. after purge just pull the PJ hose and drain the bowl. next time around filled the tank and bowl with alky. only one time did I need starting fluid. if you have a pump and the bowl is dry youll need something to get it fired so the pump can take over. that's why I filled the bowls with a big syringe through the inlet hose

you wont find any jap components on the wiseco or HR unless you put them on yourself

you would think the drivelines could blow the doors off stockers

is the rear shaw supposed to compress a 1/2" or so when you sit on the bike ? mine seems stiff as a board. barely even moves if you jump on the pegs. seems like I may have to let out some pressure

I haven't seen the athenas first hand but people say the exh is rather tall. this may be partly why you only saw 110 on your gauge. decreasing the dome cc may have put your comp ratio way up there even though its only 140psi.

I haven't seen how the bearing setup is configured on these engines but I know nearly every other 2stroke ever made uses a double row needle on a steel bushing and they seem to last forever. 500 hrs would be nothing under normal use for most engines. the basket turns relatively slow so its not likely to wear out anytime soon from to many revolutions. a few seasons of clutch dumps on asphalt may wear it out quicker than normal I guess. im not a asphaly guy so I couldn't say for sure. what type of failures are you talking about ? was it a high quality bearing used ? I wont say what brand but some of them pancake setups are sent out with the cheapest Chinese bearing you can imagine. how they last longer than a weekend is beyond me. luckily theres a heavy duty upgrade from a Honda engine that can be used. I could see a cheap bearing under the basket failing in short order

jt couldnt make one? seems simple enough personally i like the bearing idea better but thats me

wasn't trying to tell you how to sell your bike. for example if I were to sell mine tomorrow I would mention it was the 10th one made in jan 2016 still sitting in the garage or 5yrs old with 267 runs on it. that's all I was getting at

9500 bikes don't need details lol. good luck on your sale bro

dam you must be strong sumbitch to lift it on that crate. looks 4' or so

some wisecos have some sort of coating. some of their stuff doesn't. not sure what the deal is. but ive used a couple of the wiseco Hondas with the coating. really couldn't say if there was a benefit or not. seems like the oem vertex I took out of my new ktm had a coating but it was cheesy and mostly worn off in 5hrs. tried the thick swain tech stuff to tighten up the clearance on a old ktm engine because pistons were no longer available at the time. found a hairline crack on the edge of the window so I never ended up using it from what I remember. probly still have it buried in the garage somewhere never tried the stuff you speak of

the statement about forged being nearly the same as cast is if you compare the recommended specs of wiseco vs oem or most any other cast for that matter. wiseco says .003 on the 513 series box, oem manual says .0024-.0026. if you compare wiseco to oem on other brands such as Honda and ktm you end up with nearly the same clearance of both pistons as well as for which piston can be set with the least amount of clearance and not seize, I don't know that answer. but im quit sure if the machine work is tip top and prep work is good you could probly use less than the manufacturers specified clearance. and if you can consistently keep the engine cooler then you may be able to reduce the clearance even further for this reason also

piston clearance is simply the bore diam minus the piston diam. usually measured at the skirt bottom and 90* to the wristpin. so to answer your question yes the .003 would be .0015 each side. btw the manual says .0024-.0026 for oem piston tricked most any modern forged piston uses nearly the same clearance as a cast piston, within .0005 or so. theres still plenty of urban legend going around that forged needs more clearance but for the most part that really isn't true now days

crappy welds>fake welds with propane torch

if I needed a wrench set right away and had little money and had a sears down the street , its likely I would do the craftsman. after owning other brands I have really no interest in using craftsman stuff. snapon wrenches are pretty sweet imo. to me the geometry is just a lot better. I have a lot of craftsman but it was all handed down to me and its mostly never been used because I prefer other brands. I should sell it and free up some space in the garage. torq wrenches and shit like that I feel craftsman is not nearly on par with some of the others brands

craftman is on the lowend of the scale for folks that cant afford the good stuff