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nasa doesn't know jack shit about 2t engines. youd be just as well off with some walmart janitors. and don't bother calling the Chinese them dumb sumbitches cant even steal a carb and make a good replica

sounds like it wont pull the gearing you have. maybe you have to much tire or its a heavy bike. cheapest thing to change is front sprocket and see what happens. then again you might have a mechanical problem

i think the problem is people don't put much thought into what theyre doing and cut corners. cf can be very strong but you cant just glue a few sticks of it together in the garage and expect it to be of sound design. im sure those mustang wheels took a shit load of computer and real world testing before they were put on that car and sold to the public. not to mention the special coating that was needed to deal with brake heat and salt water. the reason i think you don't see much cf stuff for atvs , motorcycles etc, is only because cost is far to high for the majority of us. no way im paying a few hundred buck for damn handlebars. its not so much the cost of material but to make any cf parts for a structural application would require professional engineers and that wont be cheap. this is pretty good info on cf testing http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1038&context=mesp

I would think so for sure. was it the same guy that used mnt bike brakes on a quad ? hahaha I think cf parts can work well on qauds and cars but it has to be well thought out , not slapping on hodge podge schwinn mnt bike bars. a professional attempt at making successful cf parts would require placing some stress sensors on the original steel parts and examine the data. then you would have a idea what cf material and design would be needed.

no I didn't meen smaller pilot and needle. a bog from my experience is one or more of the circuits to lean. my mistake on the airscrews, meant he should turn them in and see if the bog changes for the better

I say they remove the turbo and measure power again

yep I would try the airscrew 2.5-3.5 out. if bog decreases youll want to try bigger pilots. might need to try smaller diam needle as well

I read some stuff on cf top/bottom a-arms and they sound pretty damn strong but the tests and design was carried out by engineers at a university not some kids in the backyard. as with any part, regardless of material, it has to be designed correctly for the application. theres plenty of other varaibles as well like the dude doing the welding or type of glue holding the carbon parts together, just to name a couple things. I wouldn't recommend any lamen make their own cf parts for a structural application new gt350 has cf wheels. dang near half the weight of aluminum http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/car-technology/news/a26046/fords-carbon-fiber-gt350r-wheels-use-nasa-technology/

ive never liked the idea of one piece manifolds. if there isn't a straight plane across both cylinders then you can have a leak. same goes for the head. most people don't think to put a straight edge across the cylinder tops or inlets but if you do you might be surprised what you see

why couldnt the shop boring them just weld it

pieces welded together can be quit strong or it could fail miserably. this all depends on the welders skill level. anybody that's been in a basic welding class has likely butt welded 2 pieces together and bent them in half. a good weld has no problem bending just as a single piece does. I would rather avoid welding if at all possible but sometimes its not a option. if the part in question is appropriate for the application then it wont matter if its welded or one piece. hell some guy at work today twisted a f550 axle shaft in half

quit being a nutswinger mike junkyarddawg, devcon is good but expensive ($50 for the smallest quantity) and takes a week or so to get. if the unused portion isn't sealed very well then it goes to waste. moroso is fine but $35 and its doubtful youll find it around town unless you have a automotive speed shop. go to ace hardware and get jb weld steel stik putty. about $8 and put the remainder in double Ziploc bags

muffler to

hellen keller racing ftw

im sure the people that leave garbage behind and vandalize anything in sight had nothing to do with it

the shipping was $20 on the cases but they not for sale. if you gave him the clutch cover $18 shipped that aint bad deal

what. i just sent a set of cases priority for $20

home depot has lexan. walmart has some paint stripper in a spray can. citrus something or another with a orange cap but it works pretty good. 10min and that paint would of been off and you avoid the deep scratches from the 60 grit

the other red flag is it says designed for any oil injection system. without even looking at the data sheet you know its some thin stuff. I prefer the high viscosity like klots etc

one of the many great advantages to secondary exh ports is you don't need a big honkin ring snaggin main port like they used in the old days with mono ports.

toe I used a tape measure. rest of the shit I just eyeballed

its probly thin as water im betting. alot of broke dick dirtbikers use it because its cheap and found at every gas station.

packards name rarely gets mentioned but hes had plenty of fast stuff

if the stinger diam is to small it can put excess heat back into the piston causing all sorts of problems. guys more familiar with hondas like jerry hall and maybe even arlen do modify the stingers on some esr pipes depending what engine its used on maybe theyve fixed it now but the older esr jugs i seen had crappy water jacketing which was probly partly to blame for troubles folks were having

why not get some drivelines instead. would be cheaper and youll have a better setup. if theres anyone still willing to put triples in stockers it must cost a fortune fir all the grief