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so what do u have to say now? when im home later i can post some stuff from the ktm book thats tangible so u can believe it since u dont believe me. or is ktm just a bunch of tards also ?

u must be trying to twist this around. i made it perfectly clear in the other thread we are talking water temp

zilla u can call me all the names u want but your all wrong with your statment of running a 2stroke engine hot. hate to tell ya but its been tested millions times. 150f would be perfect but unfortunatly youll never be able to comprehend the reasons why. some day u might snap into reality but i doubt it.

run along son. no room for washed up nobodys like u

u know what else causes deto. hot intake mixture from hot crankcases( remember zillas proposal to run the mtr hot as possible without over heating)

claude im not sure if your agreeing or disagreeing with me but i can tell you aluminum is a nice conducter of heat and when its hot the heat travels fast and far. if the cylinders hot, your crankcases will be aswell, as will all the intake mixture that has to pass through the crankcase. so i ask you, how much sense does it make to run the engine hot, like zilla suggests?

umm no. your thinking of grammas v8 station wagon

wasnt talking bout a thermo. 210 water temp is to high. that suggests inneficient cooling system, possibly to much compression, poor combustion chamber, to much spark lead. could be a combination of things.

tricked have u been under a rock lol. a well developed 2stroke should not be anywhere near 210. 160 would b acceptable if you could maintain it

zilla its pretty foolish to follow what everybody else does especially if its wrong. like i say you wont find one of these mtrs thats over cooled so do everything u can to cool it much as possible, but use logic. alot of gimmic out there like inline coolers and high capacity poorly designed heads

it is kinda funny. mostly because alot of atv riders arent very sharp. thats why we have useless products like coolhead and people buy em. when u find a bike thats over cooled, let me know.

claude i havent seen all the aftermarket heads but im not a fan of the coolhead brand for a dedicated glamis bike a fan would be one of the first things i installed. unless you can ride 50mph 100% of the time. set it up to kick on at a specific temp. easy enough

fan is def good idea if you have power to run it claude , coolhead could easily just copy a known good design if they dont have the ability to design it theirself. oh well i guess

never seen a chinese rad so i couldnt say claude, changing domes is fine. its the other aspects of the head that make no sense

nice robust rad would be a good choice. no experience with the Toomey but some shops can make whatever you want for 300bills. shielding is important. either use the stock stuff or make your own. coolheads go against everything we know about head and plug cooling but maybe your mostly wanting bling

the lincoln200 may well be perfect for what he needs. try it and see is all i can say. i would definatly buy it over one of the china models. loco the dynasty 210dx ready to rock and roll with cooler, torch, footpedal, is 5g. not sure what machines you have

nothing against m10654 but it seemed he needed some help as im sure hes new to tig machines and maybe welding in general so I tried to offer help. ive been in them shoes before and as a new guy you don't know anything about the different machines, what the functions do, which functions are important and which ones aren't, what accessories are quality and which are junk, what capabilities the diff machines have, blah blah. I did a lot of research before buying a machine and I highly suggest he do the same because its easy to buy the wrong machine and regret it later. maybe the lincoln200 will be perfect for what he wants but ill be the first to say its a bare bones model with very little parameter adjustment, but again maybe it would be just fine for what he wants and the price is attractive no doubt and Lincoln will be a quality unit. miller would be sweet but you wont touch one of their fancier models for less than 5G but maybe you don't need a fancy model with the bells and whistles ? the Chinese brands have a very nice price but IMO are junk. I haven't used one but did tons of research and watched videos of the inside guts and they are no where close to the quality of the American or euro welders. but for 1000$ I suppose you could afford to throw it away every 3 years and get a new one, if it even lasts 3yrs. myself I wouldnt touch one with ten foot pole but you might get lucky and find needle in the haystack and yours wont malfunction right away. I have no doubt the euro stuff is high quality but there may not be much tech support in the states. then again im sure some of the brands have offices in the states so there shouldn't be much to worry about. this is why research is important, so you know exactly what the hell your buying. I spent a lot of time rummaging through 100's of threads on 4x4 forums, welding forums, fabrication forums, engineering forums, to find out what machine would fit me best and to just learn more about the machines in general because I didn't want to throw money down the drain. still there was a lot I learned on my own. like ill never use a gas cooled torch again. Chinese tungsten suks and ill pay a bit more for quality german stuff. flex head torches are the shizz, gas lens kit is money well spent. you get the idea. theres a lot more that could be said about the whole welding topic in general but I don't have time right now

far as I know theres no standard for how they list duty cycles. so basically theres numerous formats in how they can be listed which may make one machine look better than the other to the untrained eye. you have to also think of how much quality are the inside components and overall quality of the machine and accessories. but I wouldn't worry much about duty cycle as its unlikely youll get anywhere near the duty cycle limit of any 200a machine for atv related stuff. most range between 2-5yr warranty but its good idea to check what components that covers. do plenty of research before dropping the coin is all I have to say. a lot of them cheaper china welders have shit accessories so youll spend money at day one just buying quality foot pedals and torch

forgot to post this but its pretty nifty. when locos pipe reducer falls off on the trail he can weld it back on

do as you wish but don't come back next week saying how well the reducer pipes work because nobody gonna believe it

plenty of research should be done before buying any welder so theres no hidden suprises. whether its Lincoln, miller or some shit Chinese brand. im not promoting any certain brand but some the euro stuff is world wide and parts/support shouldn't be any problem in the usa but of course its up to the customer to do that research and see what machine fits their needs. I wouldn't mind a Lincoln but it didn't seem they had a 200-220amp machine with the functions I wanted. millers dynasty 210dx looks sweet and what I was interested in but just a bit more cash than I wanted to spend. ended up with a slightly cheaper brand but im happy with it so far

call arlen. he will set you straight. or don't call him and install the reducer and 'attempt' to make progress lol. next time your at redlines shop I bet he smacks you upside the noggin and says quit acting a fool lol. progress would be having arlen make some proper pipes but your stubborn and want to go backwards

wasnt against anybody. just sayin 24mil pipes will be a mile off on that small mtr but use them if you want

try em and see. in the meen time put em up for sale and have arlen do a new set. maybe he has some premade that just need mounting brackets welded on

if arlen spent any amount of time making the 24mill pipes specificly for that engine, they wont even be close for a 4mill. everything about them would be all wrong. im quit sure he would tell you this. cobbling them on with a 'reducer' flange isn't something he would recommend either.