fastforworddad

Well Brandon, I let it get to 220 with no cap and could see flow, and used the temp probe on my multimeter to check its reading. They were within 3*-4* with probe in filler neck and temp sending unit in upper radiator hose right were it exits the head. The unit is hard wired in the bike, I guess I could remove it but I already proved it is accurate, at least to around 220*F. It was humid today but dont recall seeing any steam either. How have you been Brandon? Dunes here are pretty intense.

Yeah I would sat I was riding fast enough to flow air over radiator, seems that the faster I would go the hotter it would get. Yes, several plug chops and a little fat and waiting for smaller jets from FAST. Don't think it is detonating, plugs are always tight and have never backed out. Yes did a leak down test and it was good, Radiator is new and bike is washed and lubed after each ride in the sand. As far as a shroud behind the radiator, no. And by the way it is a new oversize radiator.

Well here goes, 421 4 mil cub +4 timing 35 pwk pilot 48, 160 mains, CEL 4th down New Fluidyne radiator and cap Mull billet impeller Trail tech has shown temps as high as 256*F but no boiling over, no spittin from overflow, no gurgling radiator. No sweet smell from exhaust or coolant smell at all, no using coolant. Started thinking gauge was way off on the Trail Tech Vapor so I tested it all they way to 220*F with the radiator cap off using my temp probe on my multi meter. At 220* coolant was just flowing, but didn't start to run out of the neck like I have seen it do in a car when temps are on the rise. When it gets HOT I shut it off and it seems to cool off just as fast as it heats up. Well the trail tech was right in line with temps from probe in neck of radiator. So this leads me to believe that it is reading properly. I have read about everything I could find on the subject of overheating and banshees. Yes it is hot hear, about 115*F but there has to be others that ride in the desert that can offer a little insight. The next thing I think I will have to do is take the head off and check the o rings even though there are no symptoms other than it running hot.

Yeah, I am running the CEL needles on the forth clip from the top so it should be a little richer in the midrange.

I am running 48 pilots, 160 mains, cel needles on 4th clip from top, 4 mil cub, sea level, temp 100*F+, humidity 80%+, also have hesitation before power band. My plugs look alot like yours but many shades darker and hardly any coloration on base ring, but plenty on electrode and porcelain. Waiting for smaller jets to arrive. Whats your elevation and temps when riding? Correct me if I am wrong but read the way to dial in pilots is to turn air screws in or out until the fastest idle is achieved, more than two turns out install smaller pilots, less than 2 turns out install larger pilots. Then when you are done, readjust your idle to its happy place. Is this method the accepted practice for pilot sizing? Is this how you are sizing your pilots? If not what is your method?

Yeah, Brandon is a very good guy.

Ok guys, I appreciate your opinions, I guess I was gravitating towards the slingshot for the somewhat coolness factor and the fact that it is so much different from a direct drive. Since we are on the topic, what is involved with tuning a DD and are they pretty much the same or is there a particular one I should look into getting? Wayne

I would like to get some first hand opinions and views on those running lockups. I have done a good deal of reading but most of the info I read was somewhat dated. A little history: Duning I smoked my clutch. Ordered a hd one as well as a lockup cover from F.A.S.T. In the mean time I put another clutch I brought with me to middle east. My lockup cover is on its way as well as a new clutch all from Jeff with hd springs. The clutch from Jeff maybe enough but the length of time it takes to get stuff here from the States, I would rather get a lockup on its way rather than find out later that I need one. Still waiting on hd clutch, went out yesterday and it is slipping in 6th gear with throttle pinned while tyring to do a plug chop. I am using Yamalube 10w40, that is suppose to work with wet clutches. Can't really get any of the good tranny oil or even two stroke oil for that matter, stuck using Yamalube 2R for that too. I am looking for those you have run or are currently the slingshot as I am kinda leaning that way. Would like to know about clutch lever pull increases and feel. Would like to know how adjustable it is while on the bike. Do you need to put the bike on its side when adjusting ball bearings to keep them from falling out. What ball bearings do you run regular or tungsten. Did you notice any loss of performance with the added weight to the clutch. Would like to know if you would buy it again. I have no real first hand knowledge or experience with either type of lockup. Do some of you feel that the adjust ability of the slingshot is that good or do you like the direct drive types adjust ability better. Have done alot of searching and it seems like you either love the slingshot or hate it on many of the other boards. I think some may say that developing the slingshot is like trying to reinvent the wheel while others may say it may be a better mouse trap. Any information you guys can offer is greatly appreciated. Thanks Wayne

pm'd you

Yeah, you have to use a aftermarket stem because the banshee's stock stem already has the bottom half of the clamp. There is a list of all the aftermarket antivibe stems they fit.

If you got nuts on your chest...are those chestnuts?

I am torn between the flexx bars and the precision shock and vibe clamp. Here is a link http://www.precision-rp.com/ Video looks pretty trick. Has anyone tried these? Wayne

Its been so long since I have seen my my bike I really don't remember. They came on it when I bought it. It should be here in a day or so.

Hey Ticktock, Bahrain is very close to Qatar, as the crow flies. Glad to hear you decided to bring your bike with you. I did the same thing but I went to Doha Qatar. My bike should be here tomorrow and probably clearing customs next week. I can't speak for Bahrain, but I can tell you in Qatar there is a place called sealine where the locals go and it can be a circus. Although it is a huge desert with massive dunes so you can ride away from the locals and their antics. From what I understand, there is some activity at night out on the dunes during the summer months and there is what is called the camping season in October (I believe) where the local guys drag their "caravans" (trailers) to the inland sea which is only accessible with a 4WD when not pulling a trailer. From what I have been told it is quite an experience. Permits are only given to Qatari so you have to know a local to even try and participate. It cost me between 1300.00 and 1400.00 to get my bike shipped here, nice you can ship yours for free. It has been in transit for almost 6 weeks with the end in site. I went to the Yamaha dealer and they had a 2011 banshee for 5200.00 USD, but If I bought one here I don't think I could get it back to the states with out a problem. Parts are very expensive here in Qatar and the only 2 stroke oil I found and would use was Yamalube. I am having some 927 sent over to see if it will actually make it without an act of congress. What is your time frame for making the move? Hope to talk with you soon. Wayne

Check your PM Wayne

I had JD build one of these installed on my bike for that same battery pictured in the beginning of this thread. The battery fits perfectly. I gave JD the battery specs, he did not have that battery in front of him for fitment, and the built the box for me. I would snap some pics but still waiting for bike to make it overseas, but it is down to the wire, I hope. My bike should be offloaded in Dubai tomorrow, make a 6 hour truck ride to Qatar, then with any luck it won't sit in customs too long. Very nice setup. Thanks JD Wayne

Thanks guys for the feedback. The posted information makes alot of sense. But isn't the factory plug boot also resisted? Wayne

So you have already crossed this bridge with the nology coil, resister and non-resister plugs? And what is a tight gap, .020?

I think I have read somewhere here that when using the nology coil and wires you are supposed to run the non resister NGK plug B8ES. So my questions is why and what will happen if you run the resister NGK plug BR8ES. Asking because I have a trailtech vapor and would like to prevent causing it "static" if you know what I mean and also here in Qatar, I have not been able to find any non resister plugs or much of anything else banshee related for that matter. Having some shipped and waiting a month is not my favorite option. Any help is appreciated. Wayne

8 bills, really, that must be why I liked them, they are expensive, at least I think so

I really like the wheels, where did you get them?

Payment sent for all the electrical stuff. Thanks Wayne

You have mail.

I also did one of JD's battery boxes and was very pleased with it. I put a Shorai battery in mine and the fitment was spot on. Also gave me the accommodation for the coolant reservior. My main reason for floating the ground and installing a battery was it enabled me to use the LED light bar that I got from Jeff Snope. He was very helpful in answering questions and acquiring my custom set up. He actually picked up the light bar and battery for me at his cost and mailed it to me. I did not have time to post pictures as I had many projects going on with my bike and our international move overseas, really all at the same time with a tight deadline. On a happier note, my bike should be here in roughly 3 more weeks. Just in time for the 110* days. When it does arrive, after I trouble shoot a couple issues that I ran out of time to address stateside, I will be sure to post some pics. Wayne

I apologize Paul, thought it would post right away. Will have to check that as not to have this echeck thing happen again. Did you get the address for wife's office in Houston with the echeck stuff? thanks Paul.