fastforworddad

I'm in for knowing how to tell for sure too.

Thanks, still looking for some 10W30 oil for tranny, nothing is easy here. I never knew how lucky I was with all the conveniences we have in the States until I moved from them. Things are very different here. Wayne

I live in Qatar, recently moved from Texas. I have stuff shipped all the time for my Banshee. I use a freight forwarder, the way it works is I buy something and give the seller the freight forwarder's address in the states, as my shipping address,it has my name but the fowarder's address. When it reaches the forwarder, they open it and make sure there is nothing illegal being shipped, then it is reboxed and sealed with their special tape. Then it is shipped overseas. I will get a text when it arrives or I can follow it's progress online. The name of the forwarder is Aramex and I have received probably no less than 10 packages and have had only one problem when I tried to gets some 927 oil and they said that was a no go. Other than that it has been flawless. The time it takes is pretty good also. Wayne

Thanks Jerry, I'll try it, its easy enough to do with the PKW's Wayne

Update Well, I took it out today, temp about 110 and humidity probably 90-95%. With the timing backed down to +1*, really didn't see any difference in the temps it ran. I did however notice a considerable decrease in performance and how fast is wasn't able to get on the pipe as compared to +4*. Back to drawing board. Next thing is to put back in the factory radiator. Really thought we were on to something with the timing fix. Thanks Wayne

I was trying to get to it today but was unable, but will get to it in the morning and I will be sure to let you know. I know that so many guys run the +4 timing and seemingly do it with no problems. Probably why I never thought to back the timing back. Thanks for the tip. I keep imagining the thought of being able to ride for more than a few minutes at a time. I should know tomorrow. Wayne

Yes, the hoses have been separated from engine and radiator several times, but rerouted per Clymer's manual. Let me ask just to be sure... The steam hose, the one out of the head goes to the radiator--fastens to nipple opposite of the cap and overflow goes fastens to nipple at cap. Coolant hose out of head goes to top of radiator and the one at the water pump goes on the bottom. I think Robert may be on to something with the timing, I will be trying that today. I would be happy to give up some timing for a coloer running bike even though I am only at +4. Thanks bro.

Thanks bro, will try it tomorrow, boy I sure hope that is it. Thanks again Wayne

Glad you lucked out. Had a similar problem with my cub and studs also. I lucked out as well, just alot of cussin. Where did you order your studs from?

Put the head back on last night, had a couple bent studs, replaced them and the NOSS slid over studs pretty smoothly. Started right up as it always does. Will probably take it out later today or tomorrow Didn't see anything wrong with it when apart so hoping for the best and preparing for the worst, worst being same result. Any other ideas please chime in.

I worked on it last night and I think a bent stud or two was the culprit, had some questionable studs and replaced them with some off my stock motor and the head went on much smoother. It is a pretty exact fitting head. Thanks for the advice.

No, I hope you didn't take it the wrong way, I appreciate the suggestion.

Mine is a cub so the cylinders are one piece, not two separate ones like stock. I think I will try the NOSS bottom half on my stock motor for fitment and see how that goes.

NOSS domes fit them too right

Ok, many of you probably read my overheating thread. Well unbolted NOSS head and almost had to pry it off. Bottom half is very, I mean very tight when trying to slip it back on over studs. I could remove some of the studs to get it on but that just doesn't seem the right way to do it. So I'm figuring it is warped. Question is do the cylinders also warp at the head to cylinder mating surface? I don't have a mechanics straight edge and would play hell trying to find one here. Next question, NOSS or Chariot? And why?

I was talking about the one that is on the crank, the gear you are talking about rides on it.

Its possible, I will check it when I get home. Thanks Wayne Thought about it, the crank water pump gear can go on either way can't it?

Yeah, I was running pretty fast slowing down to see the itty bitty trail tech temp gauge, then back up to speed, last stop was 256*F or very close to that. So parked in a very slight breeze and waited for everyone else to turn around and get back to me. When I shut it off, i would let the temp drop some on the gauge, then I would start it up to circulate some of the cooler coolant into engine, then shut it off and repeat. Had a problem with the fan controller, got another one on the way. The temp sender for the trail tech is right out of the head. I am going to get a infrared thermometer to try and get a DT.

I will put stocker back in but will probably have to buy another head since the Noss bottom half has to be forced down over studs while the top half slides right over the studs. Definitely would be a problem having to tap bottom half on over studs and trying to keep domes and all the o rings in place. What I don't understand is that if I put a fan in front of radiator at idle it cools just fine. Temps are hot here and humidity is too, but there are several bikes here running the dunes while I have to watch cause bike is too hot. Sad thing is, alot of the bikes I have seen here have been rode hard and put up wet. I take care of my bike almost to a fault, cleaned after every ride, chain cleaned and lubed, all zerks wiped off then greased, then area is wiped again to clean of excess grease. Just ranting a little bit. We will figure it out. Thanks guys. Wayne

Yeah I have my stocker I can swap back in. I know I am somewhat fat on jetting but wouldn't have thought it would make it run this hot. Always thought lean is where the heat is. Hell I don't know anymore, got a bike that i can ride in 8 minute burst, then gotta let it cool off. Well it is a good 8 minutes though!!! Trying to stay positive. Question In a perfectly jetted bike, when the head is removed, should there be carbon on domes and piston crowns?

Yeah I thought about that, when head was removed the hose was clear and the port was clear also. Keep the ideas coming. When I took the head off, the domes showed no detonation and were clean with only an oily residue on the surface that wiped clean. Pistons too were pretty clean, no signs of detonation and only minimal carbon on piston crowns. I will try and get some pics when I get back home. It is my understanding that there should be carbon on domes and crowns, please correct me if I am wrong. I have maybe 25-30 hours on fresh cub build.

Well went outside and removed the head as the clymers says to do it. Pistons have minimal carbon and 20cc domes were pretty clean. Small orings around studs are a little distorted but I saw no blocked passages. The bottom plate of the Noss head really didn't want to go back on so I put it on a glass table top and it does have a very slight amount of wobble. Probably gonna put my stock heads on just to see if I realize any difference in running temps. Although I do think the bottom half is warped but I will try slipping in on my stock motor too see if I have the same issues I have when I try slipping it on the cub. I did have 1 stud come out of cylinder with acorn nut. Will get longer studs since there could be more for the acorn nuts to thread on. While out of town I will be checking in so keep comments coming. Thanks Wayne

I will be removing the head when I get back from Dubai on Saturday, and checking things in there out. It is such a simple system that I can't figure out what could be wrong. I am also going to buy a infrared thermometer. When I put a fan in front of it after it is hot with it idling I can see the temps dropping. I know it is still running on the fat side of jetting, could that make this thing run that hot? I have read that in banshees the plugs will usually foul before you will see overheating issues from overly rich conditions. I am maybe 1-2 sizes rich on mains and maybe 1 size rich on pilots (screws 3 1/2 turns out), still waiting for them to arrive from the States. When it got to 256*F, I figured I would have seen some pretty obvious signs of a cooling system in distress, (puking coolant, gurgling radiator, strong coolant smell), but really nothing but a couple of coolant drops on the sand. Let me ask a question--This cub motor has a Noss Machine Adrenaline Racing head on it, are all the Noss heads the same, meaning a cub cylinder will use the same head as a stock cylinder? It was my understanding that stock and Noss heads are interchangeable between cub and stock cylinders. The only time you run into difficulties is when it is a stroked crank. If there is a difference, will it be obvious once the head is pulled?

Yes, it is a fluidyne with a fluidyne cap. The odd thing is that it cools down almost as fast as it heats up once I shut it down. I re-routed the temp sender wires away from the coil, kinda of a longshot and won't know if that is going to make any difference at all. With the amount of air slamming in to my helmet visor, there should be plenty air going over the radiator. Another thing is I am running the Maier plastics, but I removed their radiator cover grill, but their plastics don't come with the slats in the radiator cover like the stock plastics do.. Wondering if they are needed to "channel" air through the radiator more effectively than nothing at all. As it stands now, I have a radiator cover with no grill or anything, just a bare fluidyne. Thanks guys, I appreciate your suggestions, God know I have been picking my brains. Wondering if the factory radiator cover (the one with the slats) will bolt up to the Maier plastics. Damn thing runs strong, just afraid to tear it up by running it to hot. Sucks to have to keep stopping when riding with a group.

I am using a 50/50 mix of toyota red and distilled water. That is about the best we can get here in Qatar, but I bought some BelRay MotoChill when I went to Paris and was able to bring it back in my luggage. Haven't used it yet because waiting on clutch and new lockup cover to show up. Was hoping to make some headway on this problem before using it also because I only have 3 quarts and it goes in straight -- no mixing. I have not removed the Noss coolhead because it was brand new when installed. Although I have blown compressed air into all of the hoses, I know that probably doesn't tell me if there no obstructions or not as well as removing the head would.