fastforworddad

Thanks guys Was hoping someone could recommend a good elka service center from personal experience. Didn't Matt used to rebuild shocks?

Need to get my rear elka rebuilt. Before just sending it to a factory authorized rebuilder, thought I would run it by the hq. It is the stage 3 with separate rebound and dampening adjustments with remote resi. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I read your entire post, that being not hard to do when in proper paragraph form and with proper punctuation. Nice introduction and welcome to the site. I would hazard a guess that there are probably a few here with similar back stories regarding their addiction, myself included. Very sorry to hear about your good friend, I guess there is something to that saying- -only the good die young. Again, welcome.

Really, I figured a sprung chain tensioner, like the one Chariot sells, would be head and shoulders above running rollers alone.

Call Hiper, their customer service is actually pretty good. Had a problem with 2 of my CF1's, 1 not holding air and 1 not true, and the sent me out the outer 1/2 of one and should be receiving a new true wheel this week. Take a picture of it and email it to them, sure they will get you sorted. Talk to Ace.

Thanks for the replies. So if I swapped in 23cc domes and everything else was the same(squish and profile), it would require bigger jets and more fuel, correct statement? The reason I ask is because it seems a little flat in the midrange until it gets on the pipe. Wondering if I would have to go down a cc or two to get more midrange. Had been playing with the needle positions, went 1 step leaner on the clip, then 1 step richer on the clip. Seemed to be lacking some "zing" 1 step richer, so wound up with the needle clip in the middle position. Then went down from 160 main to 158. Just think when going to WOT it should build r's a little faster on its way to getting on the pipe. Compression test yielded me 135psi each side with 26cc domes and timing set to +4. My pilot is a 50 and carbs have been synced using the sync tool that FAST sells several times. My slides are #6. Another question: My method for adjusting the pilots is as follows----I turn each screw out equally until the bike achieves its fastest idle speed. Then I count the turns and I am usually around 3 turns out on both pilots. This leeds me to believe that I am rich on pilots, but I really haven't noticed any real change in performance with the pilots 1.5 turns out or 3 turns out. One thing I have noticed is that when I start it at home when engine is cold, starts usually 1st kick with only occasionally having to use the choke. Idle is good and solid, although when motor is hot and after stopping for a few minutes out on the dunes, again starts first kick but idle seems considerably "lazier" and somewhat lower. My thoughts are it is loading up, but why doesn't it load up when its at home. I have let it get to operating temp at home and the idle is rock solid. Think I will just have to get a pair of 45's and 48's coming. Any thoughts will be appreciated as always. Thanks.

Really guys, nobody has an opinion? Find that hard to believe on this forum.

Just got a question in regards to jetting and does the size of your domes having any correlation to the size of your jets. Got a redline built 10mil serval with shearers and PWK35's. Currently jetting is 158 mains, 50 pilots and DGK needles on the middle clip with K&N pods at sea level. Temps are 70*-90*. My domes are 26cc. Chopped the plugs at 155 mains and seemed just a tad rich. Since that chop i put 12 paddle extremes on and it felt a little flat so i richened it up 1 size on the mains. Went through what others are running for jetting and consensus seems that I may be leaner than most already. Wondering if the dome size may have some correlation to final jetting sizes. For example, will an engine with smaller domes require a richer jetting tune?

yeah stock is 10mm for sure. Hopefully someone else will chime in with an idea where to get DECENT 12mm tie rod ends. I'll try Stellar, thanks JD

I bought the American Star 12mm kit for +2 and thought I would be done with it. Well no, all 4 ends have slop in them. Looked for the Tusk on RMATV but can't decipher if they sell the 12mm replacements or just the 10mm. I hate calling them cause they just look at the same effen webpage I'm looking at.

Do you have the 10mm or the 12mm?

Wow, no opinions or suggestions?

Time to buy tie rod ends and was thinking of going with a good quality heim joint. Found these for a YFZ 450R http://walshrc.com/shop/hardware/88405-tie-rod-end-american-tapered-left.html Need to know if the taper is the same in the banshee and 450R.

When did they start putting a roller bearing in there? or is it something you did?

FAIL

I had the ignition side of a stator go out while the bike was idling as I was getting my sync tool to sync carbs. It just shut off like I hit the kill. After kicking it for a while, swapped in another stator and fired right up. Wondering if the load is low on the ignition system at idle but as the revs increase the load also increases, maybe causing it to break up above idle. Just a thought.

I would put the old known working good stator or one from a friend's running bike in and report back.

Well I had kinda given up on this for a while. To answer your question, not really, just been dealing with it. I did put the OEM radiator back in with no change, so put the bigger radiator back in. I have noticed the temps really climb when running in very deep rutted sand, by deep ruts, I mean 1 foot+ in some spots. I have also worked out a sort of sweet spot throttle wise where the temps kinda level off around 200*-210*F when just cruising around. Whenever possible I try to face it in the wind say if we stop briefly. Took it out yesterday, was about 85* with average humidity and at sea level. I had to stop maybe twice duning with the wind at my back. Just kinda accepting it at this point.

No not mounted up yet They look kinda off centered but I will mount up and go Thanks guys

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/25/aty3y4yh.jpg[/img Same as yours I think

thank you, I appreciate it. by the way, what is your opinion of these tires?

Did search but could not find what I needed to know. Like the title says, since the ribs do not look to be in the center of the tire, do the ribs go more towards the inside or more towards the outside of the rim? Thanks.

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May be bacon but looks like a dick, but hey, what do I know? I don't have almost 6000 posts...