eduhat

I uploaded the picture on the Shoutbox yesterday and they were saying it is rich. So which one? I don't know what jets are in it and I run a filter with open airbox lid and FMF Gold Series pipes. Stock carbs. The bike runs solid and has since I bought it. Only issue I see with it is when I haven't started it up for a week or two, it takes a bit of me blipping the throttle to get both sides to begin to fire and get into revving correctly.

It really depends on the area, bikes go for $2500 and up where I'm at. Take a look at your local craigslist and get a feel for prices based on how the machine looks

Will do - for now I'm just going to run the stockers and try not to jump anything As an update, I got the steering stem bearing out and my a arms, hubs, and a couple other parts ready to go to the powder coater. I just need to get my carrier and swingarm apart. I may as well send them off to so I don't regret it later.The swingarm looks good, but the carrier is starting to show some wear on the old PC job it had. I also took the head off. What do you guys think (I haven't broken it down since I got it in mid 2014): https://imgur.com/6ZIY3D4

Yea, I didn't think they could be changed, but will I have any problems if I go get them powder coated? I'm limited on money for new parts and trying to re-use the ones I have if possible. Any aftermarket arms with stock side? I'm not trying to go +2

The ball joints are with the factory a arms - anything to be worried about?

Hey guys, I've broken my banshee down to the frame so I can get it powder coated. I have a few questions about getting everything freshened up. First, I need to get one of my A-arms repainted - if I get it powder coated, do I need to worry about the ball joint? What bushing/bearings should I replace while I have everything broken down? I'm going to get some A-arm bushings (the rubber pieces) all around and I already have wheel bearings. I'm going to keep the swing arm and carrier in tact as I don't want to mess with that. During the take down, I saw some a-arm bolts were a bit rusted - is there anything I need to worry about or will the bushings help with this?

Anyone have a link to a full bushing/bearing kit I can use to freshen the bike up? Figured since I have it broken down this far I may as well do it right.

Thanks for the help guys. Totally forgot about the steering stem bearing, may end up doing what Green95LX did or just taking it out. I've always hated messing with bearings. I'm doing the hubs in the same color as the frame and a-arms certainly black. When getting the a-arms painted, it is okay to leave the ball joints in them? I just saw a pic online where a guy got his a-arms painted but there weren't any ball joints in them (it was a yfz450 and not a banshee). Other than that, should I get a whole bushing/bearing set for the whole bike? Also, someone mentioned a new bolt kit for the whole chassis - but that is expensive and I don't know if it will make that big of a difference. Again, thanks for all the input!

Hey guys, I'm breaking my banshee down to get some parts powder coated (frame, hubs, etc). I'm going for a two tone look with flat black and some other color. What parts do you suggest I keep black and what should I put the color to in order for it to look okay. I was thining just the frame, hubs and sprocket bracket being whatever color I'm going to go with and everything else flat black. Secondly, since I'm breaking everything down, what do I need to make sure I change while it's broken down? Are there any bushings or bearing that I need to remove from the frame itself? I don't have a whole bunch of money and sort of jumped into this head first as I only needed an a-arm changed because of a busted lower ball joint and ended up breaking the whole bike down

I talked to a friend of mine and asked his gearing as well. He's also running 16/38 on a stock bike with CPI's. I really don't get into 6th gear unless I'm just cruising but it really didn't seem so bad. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing as this is my first banshee. Hopefully I don't loose too much up top.

I've been on the shoutbox and I figured what I'll run. I'm going with 14/40 that way the length of the chain doesn't need to be changed. I'm running 20" tires currently: STI-Tech4-XC-Tire

I would get a new chain, but I just got one and took out enough links to make it fit the 16/38 gearing so I'd like to get away with not having to buy a chain if possible. Would the 15/38 still be too aggressive? I would really like to put a bigger rear sprocket but again those are brand new and I'm not the richest guy.

Okay, so I might just go down in the front then. It can't hurt... I have a brand new 16 tooth sprocket if anyone wants to trade for a 15

Yea, it sure does. It moves but not like I want it to. I really can't go up in the rear anymore due to the chain being so tight. My only real option now is to go down in the front. Yea, I meant to go fully from the FMF's to the toomeys. I like the sound of the T5's and sure it will accept any mods in the future pretty well. I'm going to go in a clean the carbs (for peice of mind) so I'll check the jets when I do that.

Hey guys, I recently picked up a sprocket because the teeth on the rear sprocket started to bend. I went ahead and picked up the same gearing, which I found out is at 16/38. I have FMF pipes with stock carbs and a single filter intake. Not sure about porting. I like to wheelie/stunt but I also open her up on long roads and go trail riding. I can't go any bigger in the rear because the chain is pretty tight as it is with the carrier adjusted all the way up. It seems like when I'm wheelieing and I get into the bottom end it will not have enough power to lift it back up. Any suggestion on a gearing setup that would work? Another question I have is about my pipes. The end caps on the FMF silencers are coming off so I need new stinger pipes. I was thinking of picking up some T5's rather than keeping the FMFs. How would I go about changing the jetting? I haven't checked the jets that are in it. I'm here at just about 0' elevation.