m671054

Take the lockout and pp bolts out. Use hand pressure on pressure plate while adjusting the screw and checking pointer alignment. Remove and tighten nut then reassemble everything.

Keep in mind you might be on a wait list for 3-6 months before they start your build.

He said only shipping in canada, leaves the rest of the world out. If those prices are canadian dollar these are great deals. Usps shipping to the states is easy, just sayin.

Like maybe the head?

Lower jamb nut can go on the inside of the arm. This way more of the upper joint threads into the bung.

Idle screws should have jam nuts no?

Had a similar issue with a chariot head on cub cylinders going on extremely tight. Both american made. Was talking to cam on the phone ordering parts when i had this happen. He pointed out that i had the studs in to deep. Loosened them up and realized they dont turn perfectly true. He told me they dont bottom out and to lock tight them in at the required height. When i did that head slipped right on. Op, could you screw the studs in while the head is on?

Are you doing transmission gear lightening yet?

Bad harness ground?

In case anyone was wondering that ratio does take a modified backing plate. Mattoon sells them or you have to turn down the oem size one.

why buy a 66mm bore if your not building a class restricted engine? Both 66 and 68 fit stock cases from what i understand.

Link to the sale ad?

I was thinking about dhooting keith an email. I just hate to waste his time with such a basic dumb question. My problem isnt when assembling on the engine, im just bolting the gears to the basket. The backing plate od is larger than the recessed id on the big basket gear.

Maybe i pressed the kicker gear and bushing in from the wrong side but i dont think so. I thought the slots for the kicker gear where only on one side.

I asume you need to trim the basket rear plate to bolt these on the basket.orderd a mattoon and the plate doesnt go inside the gear. I didnt specify my ratio when bought, probably should have. I think i also heard the w/p gear needs to be trimed to clear the crank gear. Anyone know for sure?

These come down and back, or stock location only?

I think it rubs further back towards the pivot. The lockup cover gets a rub mark near 7 oclock

What are the chances that could be made from aluminum to help the weight loss crowd.

Im gonna say there is no room to do a draw through setup. My blowthrough is really crowded as it is. Plus the carb would be hitting you in the knee. Pic for refrence

What about the ones you have on ebay,are they in stock?

Im not selling any of it yet. Its going into my hoarding stash for now

Drill them dual pattern. Also did i see a billet case saver in there? If so get a poly or delrin one. The billet ones dont work for shit.

Bump. Getting these back from grey this weekend. Might still be available

Sorry im no help. Mine are oringed

Same would apply to gearing changes correct? Like changing from a 17t to an 18t counter. You would want more base pressure right? If you had to guess how much more pressure would you need?