m671054

What would be even better would be for a group of customers bikes built and tuned by builders but raced by the customers competing against each other. That would be be interesting. Oh wait that already happens for guys with tons of money. Just build your own motors and tune your own shit then at least your a builder at a race.

Primaries should be like 2.86, 2.68 2.52?. 2.36 Weight seems heavy are you sure or just ballparking. I think the main thing you need are new tires. Double check and repost primary ratio. Crank to clutch ratio if you didnt know.

You never gave us some key info on your current setup. What primaries are in it. What tires are on it or what do you hvae. And what gears are on it now. Any idea on hp and bike weight. Post these and you might get some real help. I would think a 71-77ro tire 12-14 paddle stags 17,18-43. Should run between 80-85mph on a good hill. Gear it and tire for the topend and tune the clutch and swingarm for the launch. I think a plus 14 is to long and will require to much tire to get it to leave right an ultimately slow you down up top. Let me know when youll be at smn. Id like to see how it works for you.

I thought to drilled axle was actually stronger. Check jj&a web site i might be wrong

X3 on the 4wheel drive with ac. We used to take our tow rig from olds hill back to camp on loop 2 through the big dunes. The chevy dunerado made all the hills. A rental yukon aired down should be fun. Get the extra insurance

Want to verify actual flange size. Whats it measure at?

What displacement classes are in place at your track? You should always be aware of cc limits and decide on what class you want to race in before you start to build. Also look at the bike counts. You dont want to build for a clas with only a few racers in it.

I have multiple cast cylinders and the threads are not that great. I would assume the quality of the billet would be better but cant be sure. The main argument was nikasil vs. Steel sleeve when they first came out. Having had cast cyl welded and replated i'm not to sure they are any cheaper than getting new sleeves pressed in. Cast cylinders are easier to come by but dont think you can just buy parts and build one yourself without going through a builder if its more than a cub. Run what you builder recomends because he is the one thats going to help you out when you f it up

Is it true that with a hinson spring basket you can run 7 or 8 plates? Was wondering as stck height would change by a fair amount thus lessening base pressure. Might be helpfull if the spring set i have is stll to tight when i'm at the dunes. As long as we are heading into the pack itself, are there large differences in steels and frictions in regaurds to thickness only??if you want to would you rank different brand frictions for longevity. Currently i just buy a couple of cheap sets a bring extras

I ran atf for a while and i feel it wore the clutching ramps on the override excessively. Automobile trans dont require a fluid with that kind of protection. I thought i was getting some free power from lower viscosity trans lube but i think its not worth the wear.

When you relieve the cases for stroke you have to fill the webbing and rear due to lack of material.

Since we are moving to the pack itself answer this please. What is the reason or when would you double stack steels and frictions. Example going from a 7 disc 14 friction surface down to a 10-12 friction surface. Would this only be for trying to control wheel spin on really loose surfaces??

Ive had 2 run diesels run away at my work your best bet is to walk away. When those big pistons come flying out i dont want to be around. Look on youtube for a detroit that runs away on the dyno. Its amazing. Had my old jetski run away as well that was a total loss.

The lock up arms spin at trans input shaft speed dont they? Or do you run a basket mounted setup? Conventional dd style lock up would need the spring pressure to drive the basket speed up to get the arms to provide pressure. A spinning tire off the line would go to max lock up in effect.

You would spin your clutch faster making lock up arm react faster, also would trans shafts spinning faster aid override slider life?

I was told by kim at k&t years ago to run 2 kill switches 1 for each coil. But you would think 2 correctly placed diodes would work

Is the inner hub portion the same?? Or were you going to drill out the rivets? Im looking for just the center hub if you find an extra.

Timing plate and ride it save up for a serval

Dont forget to take into account your stroke. You cant compare stk, 4 mill to 7,10mill. You piston speed on the long stroke is going to be faster requiring lower operating speeds for the pistons and rods to live. This means lower timing numbers. I agree with the others and wouldnt go much over 198. Also tranfer port roof work is more important than a number

Go try dumont.it will feel like home. Glamis is a whole different animal

That all depends on other places youve been to. If pismo is all you know then the size of the mountain will blow you away. But dumont has better bowl riding with similar big dunes,glamis is an amazing ride due to the size of the area. I think the best riding ive had was at st anthony due to the fact that the place is usually empty,smooth and fast. But dont get me wrong sand mtn is my favorite. The drag hill is like no other. I'll be up in may around the same time as well. What kind od bike do you have duner or drag.

I forgot to add you might want a shorter arm and wheelie bar.

I would get carbs when i got new cylinders. I would stick with a cub and build to fit a class size. Cheetahs are just a little more expensive and not that much better than a cub. Spend some left over money on some good books and tools for getting you setup correct. Big power in a crap setup will not be fast. Also get prices from real builders you'll be over budget if you put cylinders on it now

Get a coolhead,vforce reeds,vitos pistons,cpi or shearer oofs,timing plate,overide trans,lockup clutch,jj&a axle, get the chassis set up right and clutch setup working then dig into the motor.that probably is at your budget anyways. There is nothing wrong woth ebay for drag parts as long as you accept that most parts are broken/damaged/dont fit right/or are almost worn out. Ive got 2ebay only parts built bikes that i run the shit out of because i dont care what happens to them. People get pissed when they realize they got beat by some pos.

What stroke???