m671054

Just a though but this might be promoted better in the sponsor for sale section

And 10 vs. 15 out the back

12 extreme vs. 14 extreme and 4mil vs. 10 mil are the reasons for gearing recomendation differences

No word on locating them. insurance screwed me. but im over it. everything works itself out. Question is would you want just one 65lph supply and return pump or run 2 35lph supply and return pumps so each carb had its own setup.

Way to much clutch in my opinion. 17-43 2nd gear stk primary ratio.

do you Need dc conversion for the led?

override 1-5 or 2-5. what gear do you olan to leave in

clutch setup? tires are 25-12 11paddle?

Had 2 mba shifters with swedetech cr80 motors. they got stolen a few months back. I was supporting my friends by having the spare. now im waiting for them to buy and i'll be in the market for a stock moto myself. the 80 was fun as you could push it as hard as it would go and it would almost always be okay. my buddy from a past shop has a 125 and it was way more violent and demanded your attention. what do you run?

With everyone having overflow issues i was wondering if anyone has tried a punp around setup? The first time i saw it was on a shifter cart. no floats or needle and seat. has a extra tube like an inlet but it extends down to the level you want in the carb. you run 1 pump in 1 pump out. the keeps the fuel level constant in the bowl. helped in high g corners etc. mine had anti slosh plate and other little secrets..anyone tried this on a banshee yet

maybe some jja adjuster screws might help

That drum would work. just dont backcut thedogs on first and it would work like a 2-5.

I ran a terry cable style billet throttle and it opened 40s fine. Stock lectron bowls have no overflow tube(just sayin). Between the float clearancing and 3.3 needle and seat your overflow issue will be fixed. like cam and jmad said make sure your slides bottom out. as for the adjustable pj. Put some blue locktight on there to help them from backing out.

Slighty more to it. each configuration is different. cut the dogs. evenly and at x angle. cut the wheel gears every other clutching tooth off. Cut the drum to allow last gear used to stay engauged. most require additional 3-4 slider with no dogs at all and some require springs on gear mainshafts. then if you want n down its a whole nother story.

Aparently you dont. one tierod joint has regular right hand threads. rhe other has backwards left handed threads. 1 remove both ends and the tierod completey off the bike 2. assemble the ends to the rod. 3 install assembled part on bike so adjusting flat is out by the spindle. If that doesnt clear thst issue up i dont know what will. Half of all your issues were operator error. usually if it doesnt look right and doesnt feel right than guess what. it probably wrong

Again i asked for pics of the seat

For the op. Jesse meant to remove the tierod with the ends installed and swap it around. the joints have left and right hand threads.

Again i say timing issue

Timing plate, adjustable or stk?

Some bigger motor dont even have intake windows. dont waste your time.

Pics of seat. also where in norcal?

Call dennis about the needles. he makes the pe1 on up. i would imagine thats where kt gets their carbs from

Found everything but the impeller. anyone have a good one? might even splurge on billet. let me know. also need stockclutch spring bolts

Clutch fine?

One suggestion. make the leads long enough so it plugs into the cdi directly. most remount the cdi up under the tank any way. who ever tests this should get a jds front cdi bracket so you could figure out wire length.