m671054

I think most of the issue is to rich on idle and possible midrange. i dont like those carbs so im no help there. but with my lectrons being overly rich at idle causes it to stumble when launching. also if your timing is retarded not adv it will fall off.

cc, Gear, tires,bike and rider weight

Some very basic questions come to mind. compression test? pump or no pump? floats set right? how far out before it craps out? What size motor gears and tires? does it only clear out and free rev or can you get full rpm under load? lets just get all the basics out of the way

Like you had mentioned its all about inner hub and pressure plate not clamping. i dont think a misplaced washer would cause it not to hold.

Left out a steel or friction?

Usually burnt ball =excesive free play. i bet its improper pressure plate install. they only go on a certain way.

So thats it.how much of a contact patch are you looking for.

Sorry forgot your running something else. care to elaborate on what was going on with the crank and what lead you to it?

I thought that clippard was .070" stock. i was thinking about staggering dump tube length as well. does yours really shut off at .091?

I thought the 2 piece blem in the sponsor section was the best deal so i bought one last night. Now this comes up you gotta be kidding me. awesome price.

Funny this popped up. anyone know if this issue was fixed. i saw someones crank on here that appears to be doing this very thing. it literally takes chunk out of the crank taper. mayve 15-20 minutes run time and has multiple sections of the crank taper missing. looks like welding but cant tell if its from electrical issue or galling.

You have to cal them daily to get anything done. mine sat for a week just for a est.

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Stellar is open just backlogged. email through the web site. also check with wheelman chassis

hey dipshit you should check your facts. packard did not design them. he modifys them and in my opinion is the go to source for parts and tuning advice.these do not appear to be packard modified carbs either.but the are possibly priced very good depending on internals

Lectrons are stamped on each half what size the casting was oe. i guess snowmo use smaller carbs than bikes do? As i said before a stamped 36 would feed smaller stroke motors. i might be interested if these are 38. post all the details on the if you can. What needle and seat? what number is actually on the sides of the bodies? can you measure the id on the intake side?

600cc on 36mm carbs? doubt it. these will work up to about a 4mil stock cyl id guess.

Im done discussing this. here are the known facts. 1. In this used market it is cheaper to build from a complete bike. 2. Building from just a frame and buying every part is in reality just a way to finance a bike. 3. you will spend twice as much time and money then you budget. 4. when you cant get it to start or run right you will start some dumb thread asking for help.

Not at all arguing availability of parts. everything is readily available. by hard parts i was meaning cyl crank pistons head cases etc. your price of 2500-3k is probably about right for complete power plant.

How much do you guys think a complete engine costs. im talking everything from filters to silencers. electrical and hard parts. and remember you want a quality build. i think most of your money will be spent here. please break down what you think stuff costs. i know what i payed. and it was more than 1/2 my total budget.

Buy a complete bike. tear it into a million pieces. sell what you dont want or need and build from there. you really would be surprised how fast all the little things add up. i started with a 100 dollar frame and am now at about 3k all used stock parts. nothing special.i bet 40% of the used parts are close to junk anymore. Its all the $3 bolts and shit plus shipping that hurt. good luck

X2 on the 2500. waste of time to start from just a frame. cheaper to buy a runner.

How many passes on this?

I like the larger adjuster knob. who made them or what part# clippard valve is that?