m671054

Think he will still sell the parts. online store just shut down. x2 on pics of home built rail. get some chassis and fab books for xmas and read up. People are telling you not to do it for your own safety. pics of buggy and welding skills. Consider that an application for help.

You want stock stroke or 4mil ?

What about a 500lb combined bike and rider. Then people will bitch about where the light bike/jockey combo places the ballast weights. no one will ever be happy. like the prego suit idea for jockeys. that should be tried and filmed at the hq ride.

To small of a motor to waste the time and money on. Its relatively easy to do, but if you have to ask you probably should hire someone else.

Full msd needs battery and does not charge correct?is it the dyna cdi or coil that has a bad rap? i think for dunes stock or pvl is your only choice without being tied to a battery. Any one run the programable pvl?

If your stuck on using hinson parts dont be worried about the spring loaded one. im running 3 of them 2 bikes easily over 100hp with no issue. the only thing is your stuck with their ratio straight cuts. with the cushion basket you can run any ratio but i feel the same as others, your paying for the name.

Make yourself a gauge

See if you can source propelyne oxide locally. vp used to sell it. Mix 1gallon to 4 alky. Slightly easier than nitro. highly rec looking into the hazardous health affects of all power adders.

You need to be able to deliver lots of fuel consistantly. main problem is you cant feed enough even at low percentages

Now im gonna have to check tonight. i shouldve known better than to doubt starwriter. his input is always top notch.

cant recall ever seeing id marks to pair up cases. possibly youve only dealt with ones that have been to builders and they mark them?

I got a set of bb bf white knuckles on the way. hope to get dome dyno time this winter to compate to stamped and coned shearers. build is a 610cc. Ive decided you need to just buy all of them and see which is best. so far shearer is better than cpi. we will see about wk. nothing looks better in garage rafters than tons of oofs hanging down.

someone who owns thes please provide a lower body od measurement. i would like to use them but want to know if i need custom spindles or what.

Any one have the od measurement on the lower shaft to compare to a marvin? also on the float3 is the lower black part near the mount removable. couldnt locate good spec online.

WHY IS EVERYONE SHOUTING??

Gonna leave it at this, smaller engines are very efficient. from a 421cc bike up to a 817 your only gonna gain 50-60 hp. Bigger guys need more power or less weight to be competitive. i feel its cheaper and safer to go with more power vs light weight parts. if your 140lbs go with a small mtr lightish bike youll be fine. but 200+ youll need more tq plain and simple.

The menz 421 is far from something people on here can buy. he is a very sharp individual and has spent the time to fine tune every aspect of it.if you dont build motors and spend countless hours dyno testing then that small engine is not a good comparison.

Should be able to tell by weight. take it out and do some math

On pump gas nowadays

i feel the added hp and tq will show results due to the load from the hill and longer distance. I agree in 300ft the lighter bike will be competitive. What do you think it costs to build a superlight 421 on alky, we can assume what 110hp? lsr ti chassis, bac axle, best of everything as was the example. then lets compare cost to a more traditional build say 18dmx at 165hp chromolly lsr jja, shaws and what not im guessing 200-220 lb handi cap for 55hp probably 35 ftlbs. i might even be low on light bike price estimate. maybe could get a bigger motor.

Not exactly what i meant. i was assuming people had a good chassis setup with proper weight transfer, tires, clutching etc. my thought was dollar for dollar for dollar youd be better off building more power and focusing on getting it to the ground. eventually these bikes get heavier as the power comes up due to engine weight,extra wheel base and chassis stiffning. in your example of the light bike vs big bike i would think track would be the smaller lighter bike but on big hills the fat guy with more power would be the favorite.

If your not building a cc class based bike your wasting you time looking for all these light weight parts. you will spend more money chasing weight then you would building bigger motor or spending dyno time tuning more power. the only reason to even discuss weight saving is on a cc restricted bike chasing records.

Only ti axle i knew about was from rad mfg. They were 40mm and had those lame taper seat hubs that never came apart. i had 2 back in the day. what a waste of money. maybe yours is anodized?

Fork problem only. how would a shift shaft only cause a problem in 2 gear that share a slider?

Anyone know if you can run them in a single arm style suspension. is the lower shaft smooth and same od as a shaw?