m671054

thats how the head i have looks like it was ran but i wasnt sure. Did you use copper washers to seal the studs or 1211 all over?

Why the 530? Nevermind saw your other post

You use steel or copper pre made orings or did you make your own from wire? Also im assuming you only cut the head and not the cylinder decks. Those copper head gaskets come in a couple sizes. I would assume the .010 would be to thin for an oring setup.

i wasnt positive on that either. Some banshee based pipes are dual or single oring. I thought you were refering to the flange on the pipe being dual oring. You had mentioned cutting the flanges off and welding new on in another thread hence the confusion. Glad you cleared that up.

Mls style gasket?

Maybe a set of flanges would help your problem? I'm not sure if you can get dual o-ring flanges for different size motors or only the DMs. does a site sponsor make said flanges

care to expand on this? Traditional working with automated?

hate to say i told you so but at least you've seen the light

Interested in 52mm flanges if you decide to go down to 48mm. Let me know

What was the orignal base gasket? Maybe cylinder porting is set up for that size since they were decked?

Even drill and tap it so you could bolt to your stator cover. Would be nice to mill down the broken section and just bolt that new part up.

Use sharp masonry bits on broken easy outs and taps. Works suprisingly well. Also ball tip dremel to make a nice dish in broken bolt makes it super easy to center your hole. Heat should get the out pretty easy. Look into getting an impact screwdriver as it might prevent that in the future. Also i think the broken bolt held on a catch tray for lube the never needed to be removed in the first place

Dont even wanna ask about lube mix ratio for those

so you have a sleeved cheetah?

Your sure its a cheetah? Is it a billet or cast cylinder? You usually dont bore a cheetah cause its nikasil coated.if it needs recoating you might have it bored and replated at a more popular size like 73mm.

But picture the underside of the piston trying to compress the mixture. With no windows the skirt seals the intake port earlier creating a smaller area to compress the charge. With windows you are pushing back against the intake tract until the windows clear the port.

^^^^^^this. Wouldnt no windows with boyesen ports help initial transfer velocity? Just thinking out loud.

No you dont. Rods do not affect stoke. Those part numbers are not specific to your motor but should work. The piston from cp most likely was xxxxxm07250.

Again, call wiseco with the piston number

Whats the number on piston? Have you called wiseco?

The only nitrous kit ive got is going to be used to spool up a turbo.The op was asking about running it. It does work but the lessons are not cheap. i think our definition of big dm might be different also.

Then how can you compare a big dm or triple to a much cheaper nitrous build. you could get power real close to the dm. Triples are a whole different animal

^^^^^has no clue on cost of builds. You could (and probably will) go through 3 stockish nitrous motors to the cost of 1 big dm. 4-5 easy on a triple.

http://www.atvdragracers.com/forum/sale/6712-leaving-hobby-banshee-has-go.html only 2 1/2 years later. Same price same story. Doubt full there will be a part out or much needed price change. To bad to cause i could use some parts and its local.

For what its worth i paid less than your asking price for a aero 53, pipe,carbs,2 plenums,cut cylinder head,ignition,fuel pump,and lockup clutch Approx 1 year ago. I doubt you will be able to sell it for 500. Blame it on the economy and cheap aftermarket cylinders making good hp. Glws