willaduncan

Well it was up and running until the timing key got sheared idk how but oh well easy fix

I didn't think of that I know I torqued it to 68ftlbs with blue lock tight... And yes it was ported by hjr that's the only air flow changes

Yea thats what Im thinking a fuel or air issue, its just weird it was running so great and then after a 1/4 to 1/2 mile straight at 3/4 to full throttle bam the bitch cuts out seems like its just my luck lol i have more wrenching hours than ride time probably 10times more wrenching time....

Yea ill do all the obvious stuff first carb fuel plugs and spark I'm just wanting to know what all other than obvious to look for

I'm not saying that is wrong I'm just saying plug hole is way easier and when a builder says it works ill do it but like I said both ways will work but both can be just as accurate

Wiseco pistons squish is at .050 it was bored 30 over . Yea checked fuel and flow didn't check spark I was on powerline breaking it in.

I'm just trying to get an idea as as to what to look for, finished my rebuild today, during rebuild the motor was bored to .03 honed ported billet basket with hd springs billet water impeller +4 timing lightened flywheel uped the main jets to 330 new pushrod and ball fired up on like 4th kick ran great did 2 heat cycles then rode it in 1st - 3rd half to quarter throttle did the break in everything was fine, it started acting like it was choking I stopped and it died it would kick and turn over but not start... What should I look for when I get a chance to trouble shoot BTW carb was cleaned when rejetted and carnal were synced

As long as you are right over the wristpin you will have NO piston rock going through the sparkplug hole is perfectly fine as long as you put it where it needs to be

As long as you are right over the wristpin you will have NO piston rock going through the sparkplug hole is perfectly fine as long as you put it where it needs to be

Yea don't do the stock impeller if you can help it not to shit on what everyone else said cause brand new they are the same but over time the grade plastic yamaha uses that shit turns into a very soft plastic not much harder than cardboard so of you swapping and have to pay spend the extra 10 bucks get the billet, also go mull or chariot they use the stock shaft which modquad and others don't and their shaft is slightly bigger and can cause issues turning just my .02 cents

cool head is not sold just stopped adding it because I wasnt getting any bites I do have pictures ill pm you my cell number to contact me for pics

Thanks for the replies ... Squish is the space in between the top of the piston and bottom of the dome at cylinders top dead center, it is measured by squishing a piece of solder by placing it through the spark plug hole and kicking the motor over and measuring the squished piece of solder with a vernier caliper

bump bump

I have been doing a rebuild and sourcing all my information from here and the clymers.... everyone on here says the aim point for squish is between .030 and .045??? my squish was checked at .05 by myself and was told by a bhq member that was WAY TOO far off, so I called Kevin at HJR who did my motor work and he said thats dead on. Squish levels should be from .045 at lowest to .060 and some of his fastest motors were at .060. He also said the .030 - .045 is for the 4 stroke motors so why does everyone in their mother think thats the correct squish on here??? I guess I am just looking for more insight on the matter, Im running what kevin said .050 no matter the response Im just a little curious on why there is so many people saying different then the builders and also to help others with this part of their build.

Mull engineering makes a billet gear imo its not worth the extra cash to buy tho just throw a light coat of grease on the shaft of the impeller and make sure there is no play in the gear up down or turning on the shaft and your good

Lol

-Stock flywheel - 40 -stock exhaust - 40 -stock radiator with hoses - 30 -stock timing plate - 10 -stock carb bodies no slides or bowls - 20 all prices are free shipping feel free to make an offer (ALL parts are used and in good working order)

fullthrottle also follow jlsparky7's videos man along with a manual ofcourse and you will be just fine, if you do upgrade to a billet basket take an angle grinder knock the heads of the rivets off on the back of the gear take a punch and knock em out then take the gear and washer put it on the new basket with the new gear and basket bushings and there ya go, just in case you were wondering there isnt really a write up on it that I could find

The weaker backing plate and mounting hardware really only pose a threat to the high HP motors correct? on everyday trail bikes the backingplate & hardware is just fine from what I have heard... correct me if Im wrong but thats what I understand

It is extra insurance to minimize the chance of welding your ball to your shaft and possible mushrooming the other end of the shaft and then have fun pulling it out..... ::

IDK man your probably right im a boot to the banshee world but I have been around bikes my entire life and we have always frowned against jbweld and epoxy but like I said man im new to this side of the tracks so maybe Ill give it a try I know it would work I just feel like im being a cheap ass ya know what i mean man!?

Sorry if that offends you buddy but thats what I say and I really dont care, if it makes you mad Im sorry but come on man you know that shit is funny and I aint racist unless your a sorry as Afghan

-Vito's HemidomeII cool head polished less than 10 hours total ride time on it no problems at all - 150 shipped -Stock flywheel - 50 -stock exhaust - 40 ?? -stock radiator with hoses - 60 -stock timing plate - 20 ?? -stock carb bodies no slides or bowls make an offer If your wanting pics dont be afraid to ask im trying to clean out the garage so make an offer!!!

head pending payment

Well then thanks for the heads up i didnt know that... no im trying to build this bike right not some afro engineered bike with JBWELD all over it