willaduncan

Can you pm me what shipping to 28546 would be?

You came on here to get advice people are telling you to buy the bike first, you completely disregard there advice and do your own thing you want me to not call you an idiot? Don't Act like one, I see you just got here how bout learn a bit before you start asking ignorant questions

This guys a fuckin idiot... You guys are wasting time trying to help him he is never gonna listen

You realize the site sponsors we have we can literally buy a brand new banshee online... No offense but tell him to stick to building bikes and just refer his national customers to the site sponsors here

Thanks guys like I said this is a compilation of info I found during some searches for machinist wax that trickedcarbine had told me about and know that I've never found a decent write up on here for this important step of engine assembly. I had to change some stuff since some of it didn't apply to measuring squish but I hope this helps people out in the future

That's odd just block it off

Seeing as there is no recent good topic on how to correctly measure squish I ran across some good pics and info out there and figured I would post it on here for those that may have questions in the future. When setting up your solder make sure that the ends of the solder touch the cylinder wall on both sides directly above the wrist pins and that both ends are cut smooth. These are examples of how your test solders should look. The reason for the small hump is to allow you to either pull the ends farther apart or push the ends closer together. This will allow you to get both ends of the solder to touch and rub on the cylinder wall. The hump shape of the solder is to lay flat on top of the piston, also this will keep the solder from moving around and help keep it in place. It is also very important that the hump shape of the solder does not come in contact with the squish band area. One last note before you go on to the actual Measuring Squish, make sure that the ends of the solder touch the cylinder wall on both sides and that both ends are cut smooth. The test solder below were done improperly. These are some examples of poorly done solder tests. You must keep the hump shape of the solder small enough, so it will not come in contact with the squish band. If this hump shape comes in contact with the squish band, it may rock the piston and may give an incorrect reading on the ends of the solder. It is very important that the ends of the test solder are cut clean and blunt. This is a very critical area to be measured. Now it's time to Measure Squish Band Clearance The best and easiest way to do this is by using a piece of rosin-core or acid core-solder (Do not use a solid, core-less type of solder). You can buy the rosin or acid core solder from your local hardware store, auto parts stores or places like radio shack. The solder needs to be thick enough to smash slightly but not so thick as to bind the engine (after you do it a few times you will get the hang of it). Places to get your test solder .050" Rosin Core Solder = Radio Shack PN # 64-006 E .062" Rosin Core Solder = Radio Shack PN # 64-002 E .093" Rosin Core Solder = NAPA Auto Parts PN # 777-1862 .125" Acid Core Solder = NAPA Auto Parts PN # 777-1857 You need to remove the flywheel cover, this will allow you to turn the engine by hand. Next you will need to remove the head and save the old head gasket if it uses one (some engines do not use a head gasket, they use o-rings and the o-rings are not necessary for this test). You will then need to bend the solder into a hump shape shown in the pic’s above and replace the head torquing it to spec. Now turn the flywheel by hand or use a wrench on the flywheel nut and rotate the motor so both cylinders pass TDC. The solder needs to lay right across the center line of the wrist pin. Make sure the ends of the solder touch the bore of the cylinder on both sides. You can use a small dab of grease on the hump shape that should be laying flat on the top of the piston also, this help hold it into place. DO NOT USE THE KICK STARTER TO ROTATE THE ENGINE, TURN THE FLYWHEEL BY HAND. Once both cylinders have passed TDC remove the head. You will see where the solder was smashed and this is your current squish band clearance. Another option is using molding clay or machinist wax but most all builders recommend the solder technique, again this was not my work simply some info I came across while searching the topic. Hope this will end up helping someone out!

He said axle. Like surfrjag said a pipe and hammer maybe throw a little heat on the carrier and be patient, make sure they come out as straight as possible to avoid wollering out the hole. The first side is the hardest the second side is pretty damn easy use some 4x4s to hold it off the ground and to avoid damage to the carrier OR Take the carrier to the shop have them press out the old bearings and press in the new bearings

[ quote name=uman1030" post="1588051" timestamp="1394857726]XFR's Arrived today! They appear to be very well made and SEXY as hell. I like them alot. Downside, they sent me the wrong color webbing. I asked for blue they gave me black nets. Not a really big deal, I would prefer blue though. I contacted the seller to remedy the problem hopefully they send me some blue nets . Other then that they are sweet! Same thing happened to me he sent the correct color and I got to keep the black ones too!!

Can't wait to see what you have left

Text him he doesn't respond to pm's very fast.... Here's the seat cover he made for me

I have to say elka is fast at responding even after I already paid they responded back with in 24 hrs never talked to fox so can't say how their customer service is but I'm happy with elka so far

Or hit up sprinkle

I agree with rrl, it's mainly the deal they have goin and through atv galaxy the kit is 1255, for fronts and rear while I will agree there are better shocks out there but I don't think you can beat that price

I should be home mid to late next month!!!

Just a hone and modify existing port work for a 4mil no special porting lol

Sent off my cylinders to be machined and my head to be polished should just be tear down and powder then reassembly all in time for busco!!!

espercially?? Lol

No bueno

No marks on the head and didn't measure squish during tear down as I wasn't there and seems pointless. Thanks surf I noticed it looked a little rich which I'm ok with, better than lean.

I can't wait to try these 4's out!!

I'm currently deployed had my buddy take the cylinders off to send out to jeff, what's y'all's take from the pics? Is that head slap? Or normal? When I rebuilt this the squish measured perfect

X2 I like the free tierods you just got to come up with a test or question that can't be cheated on which on the internet is hard to do

You should give special blend somethin extra cause he could of just let you keep goin and keep getting free shit lol

Mull or chariot billet impellers are the only way to go