bluebanshee98

I just went 4 mil with a dune port from hjr. +4 on timing and ill tell you what... Once that band kicks in its amazing how hard it pulls. My sprocket set up is -1 in front . Going from 100% stock machine to pipes, air filter, rejetted and lid off air box made a great difference. but then going 4 mil with the port job was a huge jump. 3rd gear power wheelies are effortlessly done. Ha I think a longer swingarm If you take the 4 mil jump you won't be disappointed

what port job did you go with bansheeboie? i just got the same set up and went with the dune port. very pleased with it so far and im not even done breaking in the engine or hit full powerband .. brappppppp

When you clean the carbs don't forget to check what main size jet you have in there

If u have spark, gas and carbs are clean it should fire up. My choke sometimes goes back in after kicking it. I always pull the choke out as far as it will go and hold it there while I kick it. Make sure you have the choke tube is connected to both carbs or it will not choke correctly

I sent my cylinders out to Kevin to get a dune port and a 4 mil set up. The turn around time was fantastic. Should have the quad up and running in a few days so ill give a review soon. Kev is a good guy. He answered all of my questions. I'm sure any of the builders on this forum are good. I read good reviews about kevins work so he has my vote

my shee was very hard to start in cold weather. once started it would start first kick. make sure the cross over tube between the 2 carbs is connected if you have stock carbs. also when you pull the choke out make sure you pull it out as far as it can go and hold it out with your left hand fingers and kick. my neighbor had the same problem. i did the choke pull like i said before it and started 2-3rd kick. i know it sounds stupid but check those 2 things. i noticed my choke didnt fully function when i pulled it out and let it stay in place. usually went back in after a kick or 2. same thing with my neighbors shee.

great..... yea it wont shift up or down more then ONCE when its running or when the bike is off rocking it back and forth..... what do you think the problem is? i took the clutch cover off to see if i can see anyrthing..... i dont have a clue to be honest. to the stealership is where it might have to go its gonna be a pain in the @ss to get it in the back of my truck too because i cant get it into neutral its stuck in 2 and 3rd.

i ordered the kit. i def needed it. even if the old plates are shot i dont understand whats holding it up from shifting down or up? its in 2nd gear and will only shift to 3rd or back down to 2nd. when i click it up to 3rd for a example when i roll it a lil the lever moves up or down from its original spot. i remember when my old 89 cr250r needed new clutch plates/dics i was still able to shift but when i put it in gear it wouldnt go anywhere it would just rev out and barely move at all. something has to be held up..????

would it be bad or not a good idea to run that clutch kit and pro honda 80/85w ? i usually always used that in all my 2 strokes that i had http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do;jsessionid=9693E8DBA4112A020AF886DC4926F01A?webCatId=23&webTypeId=398&navTitle=Chemicals&navType=type&prodFamilyId=11719&stockId=99096

whats atf type f mean? lol sorry i might be shot right now

i was just looking on ebay at the tusk kits. i do plan to double the h.p. of the bike over time (70-85ish hp.) will that clutch kit be fine even with the increase of h.p? i was thinking of getting this..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Clutch-Kit-w-HD-Spr-Yamaha-Banshee-350-87-06-/250958365149?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6e48c1dd

i looked at the engine where the clutch cable goes to and made sure the 2 pointy arrows where horizontal with each other. does that make sence?

i noticed and have been kind of thinking that my clutch plates/friction discs are prob on the way out. i def noticed it yesterday when i was on the street just kinda cruising in 6th gear and kinda did a roll on.. it started to rev high, then reved down a lil then back up ( with wot the whole time) and then the acclration really started kicking in. it doesnt seem too bad in first and 2nd. so the plates are prob shot right? also today i was riding and now it seems to be stuck in 2nd and will only shift up 3rd. it will only shift down to 2nd. did a lil research on this site and it seems that the shift fork is bound up or maybe the gears seized on the shaft. fluid is good and full. thoughts everyone on both subjects?? down the road at some point i may go 4 mill to double the hp. i can never seem to get enough so if i get new plates and dics its prob gonna be the ones with the r1 plates in them.

heres some pics of my banshee how it currently looks with a new radiator grill, asv clutch lever, shock covers and seat cover. im going to keep these rims/tires on till summer and put my holeshots back on

well i think ill be putting the pilot jets in now lol. i am always seeming to want more power out of the quad.... ( blame it on having a r1 i guess haha) i already got pipes, jets, air filter, lid removed... whats a good way to get more power but still run on 93 pump gas. 4 mill?

Just a update. I got the pilots and the compression guage. The left cylinder was 125, throttle side was 130psi, so the top end is ok. Not sure if it was the disasembly of the tors that did the trick but it fires up now no problem. Will changing the pilots make much of a difference or should I leave the stock pilots in for now? Thoughts?

just saying what i was using. Yes I know he can't get 927...

927.... 32:1

Pilots and compression tester are on their way. Should be a week. Gonna see if it starts with the snorkel on.

The choke cross over tube is in and the correct carb bowl is on the correct carbs. It seems that ever since I put the jets in it has been hard to Cold start. Once it starts ,one kick and it fires up. I'm thinking it might be a air leak at the top of the carbs because the tors tops can move left and right. I could be wrong though. I need to buy a compression tester and see what I get . I'm about 1000 above sea level with a stock motor so I'm guessing 120psi should be a good number ? I read that 90 or lower and def need a top end

thanks jereme! i agree the tops are pretty big. what would you perfer for a carb kit? also it seems my shee was become cold blooded. at first i didnt put the right carb bottom on the correct carb. fixed that but it seems as the weather dropped alot it is such a pain to cold start. i have 280 mains in there and stock pilots. maybe i should put the snokel back on. i already have the lid back on.

i just ordered a new asv f3 clutch lever/perch . i disconnected the parking brake electrode connector, took the cable off and also order a block off plate for the rear capiler. i should be all set with that correct? parking brake was always useless to me. i have another question about the tors system. i heard that they were prone to fail at times. so i disconnected the black box under the left side of the gas tank and also the connectors to the wires for both carbs. is there anything else i have to do? is there a switch in the throttle housing ( black box on handle bars) im still going to keep the big carb top heads on for now. i did some searching and found some info. i would like some more feedback. thanks in advanced!

thanks for the welcome everyone! hahah dont worry jereme ive used the search button alot on other forums like the r1 forum. i had plenty of 2 stroke dirtbikes in my past. i just recently picked up a 02 honda cr80 for 200 bucks. gave it some good tlc and 300 bucks worth of parts and boom. just like new. sold her for 900 . so thats 400 bucks profit there. i had another cr80 i sold for 1000 so basically i have a free quad! lol. ill show you guys my other toys later on. gotta run to work

hey i thought id introduce myself. im brett, 28 and from ct. ive had a boat load of bikes and street bikes over the years. finally got my 1st banshee! its a 98.. bone stock except for the dual blue rear axle, wiseco piston/rings, nerf bars and after market rims and tires. paid $1150 with 6 extra rims and 4 spare tires. got a set of mint condition fmf fatty pipes and silencers for 200 bucks on craigslist. i painted the platics blue, they were gray when i got the bike. current set up for banshee and mods... fmf fatty pipes and silencers 280 main jets k&n clamp on air filter with lid and snorkel removed +1 front sprocket holeshot tires nerf bars full skids after market lights ( not sure which kind.. they came on the bike)

im at about 500 ft above sea level and my stock banshee had 200 main jets in them. should be the same i believe