bluebanshee98

agreed but he was running b8es plugs.... i dont see why he would need to use anything different then a standard br8es? maybe im wrong? chipm what is your setup and mods?

i sold my blaster to my neighbor years ago and of course something happened weeks down the road. nothing major, just wear and tear old parts. i felt like shit though. we are still great friends but it could of gone worse. wasnt my falt but hey stuff like that happens. the shee wouldnt start because of old gas? untill that thing is running and running good i wouldnt even consider it. my buddy was suppose to trade his lil kx85 he had to fuck around on for a warrior. guy said nothing was wrong with it. i went to go check out the quad for him. man what a piece of shit that thing was! there was at least 10 things wrong with it that i spotted right when i saw it. shady world indeed

32:1 is perfect. not too much and not too less either.a good safe spot. you are suppose to use the same ratio and premix for the break in and that you are going to use for the life of the top end. keep it at 32:1 and use the same premix oil. i use maxima castrol 927 at a 32:1 ratio. as for the plugs i would stick with br8es

if the banshee is in good shape, runs well ect ( check everything, compression, bearings, ect) then hell yea do the trade. you said u have two 250r's anyway so give him the less modified (crappier one) and keep the better 250 r before you make the choice though lets see all the bikes

x3

i love it to be honest. its great on the trails. im still trying to figure out how to get it to run 100% with the lid off. i may have a air leak or an electrical issue though. with the lid on it runs great though you should get in touch with kev and tell him the type of riding you do. he will suggest which port for you to run

if there is no air box on the bike and your running pods then your going to have to jump up a good amount on the mains

i have a 4 mil hjr dune port in my bike. the 4 mil crank def helped with the bottom end but the port job def shines in the mid and topend. the bike halls ass! im sure a trail port would help in low and mid if im not mistaken

when i got my 4 mil and duneport done by hjr i had to change my flywheel/stator pickup gap to .018 and plugs to .022. and with the lid on the air box and 330 mains in stock carbs there was no hesitation or rev limiter type of effect at the top of the powerband at wot. you may have to do the same but i would try jetting first like stated above. you should get an adjustable timing plate and put it at +4 , shift star also if not done already. what kind of air filter are you running? stock air box with lid on or off?

did you have the dune port done before the rebuild? who did the port? i think i can steer you in the right direction if u just got the port job with the rebuild

Did you do a plug chop? Sounds lean to me.... Does your airbox have a lid on it? Snorkel?

Yea i remember I bought a fmf jet kit. That was a waste of $. Should of just bought jets . Well at least I have spare needles and some other stuff now

haha hell yea. when it gets scratched just give it a lil shot with the can and your good

if you cant find anything go on ebay and get a tusk clutch kit. there like 50 bucks and theres no slipping on my 4 mil duneport. i got the one with heavy duty spring and went 3 stock ,3 heavy

You'll prob end up with 270 or 280 mains

If you have stock carbs ( no tors removal kit? the idle is on top of the carbs on the big blocks

Or -1 on the front sprocket. A lot cheaper and a easy swap

No prob bud. Now rip the shit out of that bike! oh and ride safe

im going to share my experience about the 4 mil dune port from setup a got from hjr. first off kevs a great guy and does excellent work. i went from a stock shee to bolt ons, then bolt ons to 4 mil and port. i first went with fmf fattys, k&n air filter in airbox ( clamp on style) lid off, 280 mains.the bike woke up alot from stock and it was fast. then with the bolt ons i went 4 mil with a dune/play port, noss hjr coolhead 21cc domes to run on 93 pump gas, +4 adjustable timing plate. the bike flat out rips now! once you hit that band you can just feel the bike pull. 3rd gear powerwheelies happen effortlessly on the street when punced in the band. i love how the bike is now. excellent work kev! the 4 mil with dune port has been the best bang for your buck i ever got out of performance parts. very pleased. i wonder how the bike would be with a different set up like shearer inframes or some of the other good inframe pipes. maybe some different carbs and maybe pods? not sure. give me your thoughts hq members! i def had to comment on the dune port being epic.

ive used that spray paint without any prep and it came out fine so im sure with prep it looks real good. sure i would love some new plastics but im more concerned about the engine heres mine with the blue. a very cheap alternative to buying different color plastics

very nice! where did you get the graphics from? haha i feel ya on the radiator grill. almost just like mine. nice job!

just get ride of the brain already even if its not the problem one less thing that could be the problem! you need to check spark. clean them damn jets! thats prob what it is. clean the whole carb while your at it. does it bog then die when you hit the gas?

this is a joke..... i got my 4 mil duneport for just 1500 in parts. that included custom cut domes for pump gas, 4 mil crank, port job ,piston/rings, coolhead, timing plate, pancake bearing, gaskets. if you dont wanna spend that much ( eh hem.... credit card) i would at least get the cylinders ported and new piston rings

its the brain of the tors....? ok tors ( throttle over ride system) is a safety override system. if the carbs stick open when running without your thumb pushing the throttle it shuts off the ignition system. the problem with the tors unit is they tend to and do shit the bed and cause more problems then fix.

93 should be fine. thats what i run in my 4 mil dune port with +4 timing