JasonsBanshee

Got my Cascade bar clamp on today. Much better without the key.... Now I just have to get rid of those ape hanger handlebars!

So whatall is needed to ride there? I've heard you need a flag. Anything else like state stickers or sparkys?

I could go on A Saturday. Sundays are busy for me with Church and all.

Unstamped CPI

I tried to take these two shots of mine from a similar angle as your picture. Also, do you have any pictures of the silencers? CPI silencers are very easy to distinguish.

Here's an order I got last night for one clear and one black CDI bracket and one Clear and one black Hide A key bracket.

I've been selling a lot of the HIDE A KEY BRACKETS and found that some people use them to relocate the CDI box under the front plastic up front. So I figured why not make a specific bracket for the CDI box. So here it is. I can make these in Blue, white, clear, frosted and black. I'll sell them for $8 shipped or if you'd like to do a CDI bracket and a Hide A Key bracket I'll do both for $12 shipped. This picture is fouledout421's bike. This is where the bracket will mount. (If anyone has a pic of my new bracket installed please send it to me or post it for me.)

I can see a resemblance there. Other than not being fat and long before they go into the silencer tube I think they look a little like CPIs. I'd call CPI and see if they had an older style that they used to make. They're not small bore, that's what I have and mine are different.

Here is a shot of the bike. You can kinda see it in the picture. You know you want this power making beast!

What cylinders are on that bike? It's hard to tell but it doesn't appear to be stock. I'm not saying there not CPIs. They just don't look mine.

Anyone want to trade their stock crossover tube for a Moose boost bottle?

I'm with you man. I've had unstamped and currently have stamped and mine don't look like them at all.

Got the K&N in it so I rode the bike today and I must say, it's screams with the new mods!!! I can't wait to have Kevin Herr port it! I can only imagine that! Still had that sticking slide issue but I think I've figured it out. I pulled the slides and there is some gumming up on them. I'm going to clean them up real good and I'm pretty sure I'll be good to go.

Great man, glad you're happy! Post some pics of it mounted if you can...

Got it back up and running. I've got it jetted for a K&N too that hasn't got here yet so it's a little rich for the time being. Here's a video of it.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geCJM2PKG24

Do you have a fleet side or step side bed? I have a step side S10 now and my Banshee barely fits. I used to have a fleet side and it fit good other than having to jump it over the wheel wells.

The wheel wells are there to allow the wheels to travel up and down. If you take them out the wheels would hit the bed.

My Cascade clamp gets here Tuesday. After I get it on I will. Thanks Matt!

I'm also working on this new flamed design. This was the prototype to see how it woulld fit. I just need to take the outer edge flames down a bit and it'll work great. I'll let these go for $30 shipped in any color available. Sorry, I can't do $8 on these do to time and work involved in making these.

Thanks bro! Here's a shot of the black. I had an order for a Hide A Key without the hole for the key. He's using it to relocate the CDI up under the front plastic so I made a "prototype" for him to try out. If anyone else wants a CDI relocater bracket let me know. I'll sell them for $8 shipped as well. Ive got plenty of Black, White, Clear, Frosted and blue to make Hide A Keys or CDI brackets. Let me know!!

I added some WD40 to the slides and the cables and they are working much better. My springs seem good. It's mainly the slide on the right side that sticks only with the bike running. I messed around with the cable too and that seemed to help it out. It still sticks a little but it'll work for the time being. I'm going to get that TORS removal and a carb sinc tool to really help dial it in.

TORS is now unhooked. I'm ordering an kit to completely do away with it today. This is weird. The slides ONLY stick with it running. With the bike off, they slide up and down just fine. This is why I didn't catch it when I first looked. It just really felt like I slide issue so I watched the slides with the bike running and sure enough, they're sticking. I'm going to lube them up and check to make sure the throttle cable isn't binding anywhere. I know when I was jetting it a may have spun the throttle cable around a time or two in the process. I can't wait to get rid of those big TORS tops in those carbs!

I just checked it out again. It's the slides sticking. When I had them out I cleaned them real good with parts cleaner. I'm guessing I should lube them up? What should I use? And the reason it was dieing was the TORS doing it's job. Once I unhooked the TORS it wouldn't die anymore. So I need to lube these slide up. What to use?

Oh, I forgot about the timing plate. It was a pretty cut and dry install so I don't think that's it. I put it on, set it at +4 and got the little pick up thing about 0.02" to the raised section on the flywheel. I've also done some searching and it seems some people put their slides in backwards by mistake. I don't see how that's possible because it appears to me that the long notch on the slide should line up with the piece down in the carb that sticks out a little. The raised higher section of the bottom of the slides is facing towards the rear of the bike. Is that right?

I just got my bike back together today and now I'm having an issue. First off, the changes I made. timing plate set at +4 CPI Inframes Removed dynojet needles and replaced with stock needles set on middle clip installed 320 mains removed stock pilots to look at at put back in (ordered 27.5 but have not recieved them yet) removed air box lid set air screw at 1.5 turns out to start The bike fires up fairly easy. One or two kicks, just as it did before I made these changes. But now if I just ever so slightly give it gas and let off it revs high. If I give it a little more throttle slowly it revs even higher and won't come back down. The only way to get the RPMs down is to give it a nice quick shot of gas with the throttle. It's almost like the slides are sticking but I took off the air box and looked down into the carbs and they appear to be going up and down with the slightest movement of the throttle. If they're sticking I should easily be able to see that right? So the next thing I checked was the choke cross tube which is in place as it should be. So the next thing I looked for is an air leak somewhere but everything looks nice and sealed up. I'm leaning towards the pilots since they are still the stock 25s but I wanted some more opinions. The only thing is that it didn't do this with the Toomey T6s and stock pilots. At first, I had the air screws set at 1.5 turns out and I screwed them in to .5 turns out. It didn't like that too much. When I reved it up instead of coming back down to idle it would actually die. So I played with them some more and ended up at 2 turns out and it seems ok for now until my 27.5s get here. What do you think? Oh, I still have TORS. I was also wondering if that may be it. I just really didn't think TORS could be it since it was not doing this before I made these changes.