JasonsBanshee

I bought 8mm Taylor wires for my stock coil. I’ve tried to search to see what people say about them, but have come up with very little to no results. Here’s the concern. When I pulled my stock wires out of the coil, I noticed that the center prong inside the coil penetrates up into the wire, making for a very nice connection. I’ve greased the new wire and shoved it in the hole, but no matter how much twisting and pushing I do, I can’t get the prong to penetrate up into the plug wire. It’s definitely touching it, but It’s not penetrating like I’d think it should. So at this point, I’ve pushed it in as far as I can get it, zipped tied the wires to the coil and siliconed the wires to keep dirt/water out. I’m hoping this is okay, but I don’t have much faith in the reliability of this. What do you guys think? Please don’t say “go get some Nology wires", because I already know that’s an option but being that I dropped a good amount of money on these Taylor Wires, I’d like to at least give them a shot.

Can you give me more info on the handlebar mounted units? I saw some KOSO gauges on ebay. It looks like I need the gauge and the inline adapter. I didn’t see anything about a handlebar mount.

Hey guys, quick question from a first time Cub owner. I’ve built bikes in the past, but they were all stock cylinder bikes. To ensure that I have no air pockets in the cylinder when filling the system up with coolant, you can crack open the bolts on the each side of the cylinders. Well, the cub cylinder doesn’t have these. I just completed my 421 Cub motor and plan to fill the coolant this weekend. It looks like my only option is to fill it up from the radiator and top off the over flow bottle and run it. Of course I’ll check the level once I run it some to make sure it’s still good to go. Also, I am going to get a ½ gallon (2 quart) bottle of Engine Ice. From what I’ve heard, this should be enough to fill the entire system. Thoughts?

Yea I have the springs. I have the extended adjusters too. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

That's a great feeling! I just did mine this past weekend. I held it for 10 minutes without any moving of the needle. I didn't want to go any longer because I wanted the pressure out of my motor. LOL Good looking motor!

Do you guys put anything on the threads to help it from moving on it's own? I noticed some teflon or something on the threads from the previous owner.

Okay that makes sense. The process is probably about the same for all carbs. I have a sync tool and will adjust the idle once I fire it up so this should get me to a good starting point.

I've searched and searched with no luck. I'm setting up my carbs for my new cub motor. So far I have 168 mains 52 pilots clip on the 4th on the CEL needles air screws out 1 full turn from seated But where should I start the idle screw at? Of course once I get it fired up, I'll sync the carbs and adjust the idle accordingly, but I need to know where to start. Thanks! --- Specs that affect jetting (if it even matters for the idle adjustment) 800 feet above sea level in frame shearer 35mm PWK clamp on K&Ns VF4 ported cub

Lol!

My first motor leaked on the junk 2 piece aluminum Boss intake. It leaked so bad that I could feel the air blowing in my face. I now use UPP intakes and my newest motor doesn't drop PSI at all. In my opinion, it's a cheap way to make sure not only your work is good, but the components you chose to run are good too. With the o-rings in the intake, I would have thought they would have sealed better, but they didn't seal at all. I had to seal it with Threebond to stop the leak.

Good deal. I've heard their pipe clamps work well with Shearers so I went with a set. I personally think they are ugly, but if they get the job done that's really all that matters.

I just ordered a set of pipe clamps from Cascade for my Shearers. I've never ordered anything from them. How's their shipping times normally? I've never heard anything good or bad about Cascade so I had to ask.

I’m wondering how much body weight really affects 300ft times. I see people running drag cut wheels where there’s no way they are cutting out even a ¼ pound. I went through a cut about 10 unused brackets from my frame, but all of these brackets were a total of maybe ¼ pound. I did it for cosmetic reasons, but I know some do it to reduce weight. Like most people, I’m watching what I eat and trying to shed a few pounds. In 2006 I was at 168. A few days ago I decided to get back on track and lose some weight and when I weighed in I was at 250 pounds. Hey, what can I say, I like my BBQ ribs and pork chops! Anyway, I’m going to lose this weight again and we’re talking about some real weight, not just a few pounds by cutting brackets off the frame or drag cutting some wheels. I’m planning on getting back to my weight that I was in 2006. That’s 82 pounds. I know in the ¼ mile drag racing world (cars) they say for every 100 pounds reduced you can improve your ETA by 0.1 I would imagine on a Banshee and not being very torquey by nature of being a two stroke, 80 pounds would make a huge difference. What do you guys thing? If it matters, I’m on a 100hp(ish) Cub.

If you call Jeff tell him to finish my Cub already. HA HA

Hey man, do this. Pick up your phone and call Jeff. Just talk to him, tell him JasonsBanshee sent you. He is the one who does my motor work. His number is (785) 364-5325. Just call and chat with him and see what you think. He won't pressure you or anything like that. If you like him, go with him. If not call others. There are a lot of good builders out there. Cam at Redline, Brandon at Wildcard, Kevin at HJR and so on. Just call around and see what works best for you. I can't speak for Trinity, but I can say that if you go with any of the builders I've listed you won't regret it. Good luck brother

Did you talk to a builder?

Well the power makers were -In-frame CPIs -35mm PWK with clamp on K&N -Aggressive dune port from Jeff at fast -4 mil long rod -Noss head with custom domes wtih running 185psi -VF3 reeds -+4 timing -BHQ sticker

Looks clean. I see what looked like a dealer tag on the key. If you don't mind me asking, what did you give for it?

Port it while it's apart. The blue bike in my sig is a dune ported stock cylinder 4mil and it ran strong. Estimated at around 70-75hp. The longer rod puts less stress on the cylinder wall. At least that's what I've always been told.

Isn't the coil (ignition is the same thing) grounded through the black wire? The coil has a black and an orange wire. The black is the ground. It would seem to me that the only place anything grounds to the chassis is in the rear on the voltage regulator. Looking at this diagram, I see three grounds. The voltage regulator and each spark plug. That being said, it would seem that you could just run a ground wire to the voltage regulator and not worry about rather your frame is grounded or not.

Just curious, is the break in process different for a nikasil cylinder vs a steel sleeved cylinder? I know some do heat cycles, some do not, some do break in procedures and again some do not. That's not what I'm asking. I'm wondering if Nikasil changes anything when it comes to getting a new motor up and going.

I've found plenty of wiring diagrams, but they are all for Banshee from before 2002. In 2002, Yamaha put a working tail light activated by the foot brake and hand brake. I'm looking for a wiring diagram for this harness. My bike is a 2005, but I am pretty sure the harness for my bike is the same from 02 and up. Thanks guys!

Awesome write up. I tore my bike down last night to paint the frame. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only component in the stock wiring that actually grounds to the frame is the voltage regulator? Everything else had two or more wires going to it which indicates to me that a hot and a common/ground is being supplied to the component through the wiring harness. I am going to put a ground strap between my motor and frame, but it would seem that running a ground wire from the engine to the voltage regulator would be just as good? I've built hot rods and other cars/trucks from the ground up and definitely know the headaches a ground issue will cause that can be fixed with a simple ground strap so I too would highly recommend one, but on a Banshee, unless I'm not understanding it right, the only thing grounded to the frame is the voltage regulator.

Who cares what you're on. Just come on out have a good time that's all that matters. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk