salmon_slayer06

When installing the cylinder and case studs make sure to use loctite and set at required height. This way you don't turn the stud while tightening the nut. But this is just a trick I use. I don't loctite the head stud nuts or the case stud nuts.

Takes a while to do the build. You'll soon have a mountain of packages sitting next to your dresser waiting for the day. Some of the must haves that come to mind that may have been discussed already..... Port the cylinders. Make sure to get the idle gear bushing mod done. High flow water pump impeller. Loctite the flywheel nut. Get a flywheel, clutch holder tool. Gonna need an impact wrench to make life easier. I like the NOSS cool head, good to have extra O rings on hand. Do the shift star mod its free. I have stock clutch with the original basket. You can file the grooves that the clutch plates made to make shifting easier. I used Permatex Ultra Gray for the case halves, make sure to put it on the crank seals too.... where they sit in the case and on the square key on the water pump side of crank. Red loctite the head studs and case studs. Heat the studs up a bit to get them out using the double nutted technique. I used that permatex gasket installer stuff it comes in a bottle and the stuff is red. Doesn't harden, oil, water, gas, coolant resistant. I use it on the base gaskets and on all the O rings on the cylinder head. May want to put new shift forks in. I did all my trans mods myself. I used a bridge port to drill out the holes to install the bearings for shift shaft and shift drum. The gears are super hard and I had some else mod those for me. I don't need to use the clutch, but I do anyways. Thats all I can think of for now....

Did same build. I went through FAST for the port work, domes, correct base gaskets, and all the little extras. I ended up blowing a head gasket last winter from leaning the motor because the stock fuel petcock was too small. I put a pingel on I suggest doing the same. I built mine for trail riding. Its good for what I do. Biggest problem is fuel mileage. In one day of riding I'll go through 15-20 gallons. Like the power it has. The cylinder bores are a little messed up from the head gasket failure but I'm going to take care of that. I'm thinking of getting a second motor to save on down time.

Took the head off last week and found the right side dome had a chunk of the sealing lip missing. Piston caught the edge of it and broke it off. Don't know where it went. Must have blown out the exhaust. Walls were galled in both cylinders in exact spots. No major damage. Threw on a new dome, new seals, torqued the head back down, went through the carbs, new fuel petcock and took it up for the weekend. Ran good, sounded good, no coolant leaks. Maybe the engine is fresh enough everything will break in. I had less than 10 hours on it when I had the issue on the ice. Going back up if I don't work. Hoping st. helen grooms the trails before the weekend the trails could use it. Wish I had the Stage 4 elkas now.

I just ordered one from Rocky Mountain. I been riding on a bent stock axle since I owned the quad and its time I put a new one on. Looked at Lone star and dominators and didn't think twice about ordering either one of those. For the few that trail ride on here, it seems this axle is a good deal for the money and holds up quite well. I'll save that money for later when I build a trailer drag queen.

I have 35 pwks on mine. Its good for about half hour/45 minutes of riding and you need to top off the tank and thats in the summer. Recently I changed to winter jetting and its even worse. And thats with a stock petcock which is wayyyyyyy under sized. I'm paying the price for that now.

I'm going to send the cylinders back in for a hone. Didn't take apart yet and now we have too much snow and riding is done with for a while. Really bummed it happened because snow pack was perfect out here.

Thanks for the info. Hopefully the oil does its job and doesn't pit the cylinder walls.

Not sure about overheating. It did cross my mind didn't look like the rad cap had any coolant on it.

I'll take that into consideration. I do need a high flow petcock. Stalled a couple times out there and wasn't even all the way open. Amazing how much more fuel you need when riding in 15 degree temps. 35 pwk's 172/62. fat on top pilot is dead on starts easy cold. Could have lean issues from the stock petcock. I just ordered a pingle from FAST along with NOSS orings seals. Damn I'm pissed.

stock, just touch it up with some black spray paint once in a while. kidding. I'm due for an upgrade myself. Glad I checked this thread out, will help me decide which one to get.

After topping off the fuel tank I noticed my spark plugs were a little loose. I seen a little bit of oil residue around the spark plug. So I snugged them up and noticed the one side didn't feel right when I snugged it. The dome must have turned with the plug but not much. Well later on after I stopped after a good ride I noticed the coolant all over the place. On my leg, pipes etc. WTF. Motor still started, and even limped back in with it. Motor had been good to me since last build. I don't know what damage has been done to the cylinders or pistons. Its a 50:1 mix Bel Ray MC1. First time with a head gasket failure, I don't know what the standard is for a 4 mill build with $600 ported cylinders. Do I just replace the O rings on the head and retorque, fill her up and go? Or am I looking at a complete tear down, split the cases, replace the crank seals, new pistons, etc. The oring must have broke, or the head nuts need to be retorqued? How many times do you need to check the torque on those things? Every ride? Whats recommended? Do you guys have any tips on the next time I reinstall the new Orings for the NOSS cool head? Damn it. This sucks.

what brand are most using on here?

Stock axle is original. It doesn't run true and would like to upgrade to compliment the wider front end. Seen the JJ&A axles and would love one of those but spending 670 and up is a little crazy for a build like mine. Thinking +2 on each side would be good. I trail ride mostly.

I modded my stock plate. The OEM stators are the best ones. Look online for a working used one. Make sure you seal the stator side engine cover with RTV even though it has a gasket. I've had problems in the past with water getting behind there. May have been the reason why I killed a stator last summer.

forged,,,,, good warm up to expand correctly. cast..... expand easier i guess.

I picked up a nice set of extremes on douglas blue label in mint condition for a decent price on ebay.

I got the aftermarket bushing from FAST. I had to use some 2000 grit sand paper so it wasn't too tight. It was a good fit after that and wayyyyy less wobble. Kit came with new c-clip i think. It has a built in oil groove on the bushing.

Its an 89 red and gray Jarm with original plastic and seat. No cracks, no rips, no fade.

Pretty cool. So is this type of track more like a desert style race?

cool that answers my question. I have two good OEM coils and shouldn't need aftermarkets for a while. The wire tabs are broke but its no big deal. I use ultra gray on the wire and slide into coil. The air pushes out and when the stuff dires it takes quite a bit of force to pull them out. Water tight also. I've had a hard time finding any kind of coil for these let alone the stock ones.

This is what i use now. Quality part put they become loose where they clip onto plug. I still don't know if its safe to use MSD boots alone with standard plug wires on OEM coil. I don't want to ruin a good OEM coil.

bump

I pull off the air filter and use a zip loc bag with the clamp around the intake to seal out any water. I seal off the exhaust tips with lunch baggies with rubber bands or get the plugs for them. I use hot water with dawn dish soap. Don't use high pressure water. I pre soak the entire bike with simple green. And rinse off than might do it one more time before I start washing with sponge and what not. I take all the plastics off also before I wash. I hate doing it but needs to be done. You want to make sure you rinse the bike very good but no need for high pressure. After I put in gear and lift the front of quad up so its on rear two tires to drain any excess water and wipe dry. Any pockets of water I blow off with compressed air. After wash down I might shoot some new grease in all linkages and armor all the plastic, wheels, seat etc. I will mothers polish the rims and the toomey silencers. This is how I start any project on the quad, tear down or whatever. I do drive through mud and puddles but I just go through them slow. Once I'm back onto the sand I continue to rip. Just that little bit of effort saves me so much time cleaning and the bearings will thank you also. Once I have the machine dialed in, I won't wash it if it doesn't need any looking at or adjusting. I leave it until next ride.

I've gone through millenium about 3 times. Very happy with them. You need to print out there order form on website and mail it with the cylinder. This is just for a bore and hone. Guy at work had his Honda 250R cylinder plated through them.