salmon_slayer06

just doing some quick math 10 is a deal. First timer would probably spend that much and still need carbs, axle, paddles etc...

Every banshee owner should have these three tools..... flywheel puller, clymers manual, and a leak down test kit..... There is another thread on here where guys were going to Home Depot and putting together a leak down kit. Should cost no more than 20-30 bucks. Couple rubber caps and hose clamps for exhaust ports, a pvc cap for intake opening and for the other intake a gauge. Use a bike tire hand pump as you are using very low pressure like 6-7 pounds no more. Spray motor with soapy water. If you can't see where leak might be check trans breather lines as right crank seal will pressurize trans. If nothing you'll have to remove stator cover and spray that seal down. There are some helpful folks on here.

400

Called toomey and they still make them. Guy said he had one ready to be shipped so I got it. Ordered Saturday will be here tomorrow or Tuesday. Wouldn't mind replacing the hoses. Any recommendations or just replace with oem?

Looked around and seen toomey had good reviews.. pricey but holds twice the volume.

Looking to upgrade my oem radiator. It's in good shape for being an 89 but I want to change it out with a new one. Are those 100 dollar special radiators any good? Looking at some others price range 300-400 dollars and more. I'm looking for quality and something that has a good reputation on here...

Thanks for the link. I didn't know they carried that.

What is the absolute best way to do this. Looking on you tube I came across using a homemade set up that uses two bottles connected in series using a tube than a individual hose going to each carb. Now my question is where do I attach this hose on the keihn carbs that we use? I believe it needs to be attached on the motor side of carb or onto the intake itself. Has anyone used this method as it seems to be most accurate and free.. anyone have any good videos showing how to do this on the banshee?

I been running 50:1 bel ray mc-1. Ran good on the trails last year. The trails are very hard on machines and I'm constantly checking plugs, tweaking the needle heights, etc. The oil is hard to come by.

Jeez that looks mint. Do the welds look better on the newer shees or do they look like they were done in a hurry on a Friday after lunch........

If the axle is straight and all it needs is new bearings than its worth the hassle of replacing them. Some people have better things to spend money on. Take it to a shop with the new bearings and I'm sure they will get it done....

Get a hold of motor city Atv for oem coils and stators. If you have a problem with the guy than I'm sorry for posting this but I have nothing but good things to say about the guy.

What causes this to happen? Just wondering.

Thanks

Will relocating the cdi under the gas tank with the jds bracket give me any issues? I use the stock coil and br8es plugs. Is the heat from motor going to affect the cdi and will there be misfiring or electrical interference?

What mods did you do to make tank fit?

call around. Most have cylinders already ported. Best way to go. Biggest expense imo, next would be pipes.

Pilot, needle and air screw all contribute on full throttle.

Always want it just a bit too rich. It's what helps cool the motor down. Id go up 2 sizes. Also on long pulls the stock fuel valve may not flow enough. I would change it out. If bike is hard to start go up on pilot too. On fresh motors you want it right to help seat rings.

Make sure to increase pilot size. Make sure to seal everything up good. I use rtv on the gaskets but just a light film. The intake boots are prone to leaking so I even put a light film on these on the outside. I'm getting new ones anyway but it's what I did for this past summer.

Just ordered billet intakes, 8 " angled pods w/ outerwears, cdi under tank relocator and swing arm bearings and bolt. Checked out Cory wire harnesses on facebook looks like quality stuff good price. Should be able to bump jetting up. Might mess with needle on my carbs. Heard there's been guys getting more mid power on the richer needle. With shearer pipes should be making 50 horse easy. After this my future plans are for a drag bike.

Gotcha. Would be nice to finally get rid of that thing. heck may as well relocate my Cdi. Thanks for the info feel better about the project.

I never knew carbs needed that hose there. I ran a hose from them but not connected to each other. Learn something New everyday.

Okay. The intake boots support everything than I take it? What do you guys do with coolant reservoir?

I'm removing stock air box and going with proper size billet intakes to fit my 35mm keihn carbs. I'm tired of wrestling that damn air box with the tight fitting boots. Now... what is standard procedure for most of you guys running the filter pods?