salmon_slayer06

nows a good time to maybe look at the sprockets, chain, possibly replace the axle bearings as these items will see a increase in load cause of the added horsepower. I'd even go ahead check out the chain guides. These were the items that failed on me after my rebuild. Every trip up with the machine something else would need to be fixed. When doing the axle bearings, I just packed the bearings and replaced the seals that come on them. Seemed that was the best method.

Rear shock on my 89 jarm banshee had seen better days. Attempted to try and rebuild it myself. Was able to get the c-clip out of seal head but had trouble getting sealhead out. Looked like I was going to have a hard time with rest of rebuild so I decided to just get a set of shocks that were made to be easily rebuilt. So I'm looking for a set of decent shocks that someone maybe interested in selling. Quad had stock swingarm and stock j arms. I weigh 165. If interested you can also email me..... salmon_slayer06@yahoo.com. Seems this section gets more traffic that is why I posted this here. Thank you...

Where am I drilling into? The part where the clip is spaced or open? Or is it just into the ring so I can push it out of the groove? I tried to remove tube off the body but was afraid of warping the tube. Info is good keep it going. What are the specs on the schrader valve? Looking to add this so I can add nitro easier. Thanks..

35 bucks for a new seal body free shipping.

I found this old thread. Can anyone do into detail on why a hole is drilled into the shock? This shock just needs a seal replaced that probably costs a few bucks. I'll be damned if I'm spending 1000's to get new shocks when I just want them to work.

can i get still this for a stock shock? i'm guessing no but worth a shot.

How in the hell do I remove the shock seal body from the shock body? Tried pushing down on it with tool and it won't move to access the clip holding it from sliding out? It will spin so its not siezed. I cannot find ANY info on these shock and theres very limited info on any shock rebuild. I did find a good video rocky mountain ATV that does step be step on a dirtbike shock. I don't want to spend 1400 for new shocks all round compared to 35 for new seal and few bucks for new gas. Seeing there are a few guys on here that do rebuild these, I would be glad if you could give me some tips. Thanks....

I just installed a new EK chain, cascade chain guide, TM designworks rear chain slide, and TM design works upper/ lower front chain rollers. VERY HAPPY. Used to run amp research chain guide.....I had it fall apart after I modded the motor. It just about wrecked my new motor..... chain wheel came off while riding and ate a nice hole in the side of the case.

huh. Obvious its getting spark, getting fuel... maybe the carbs need to be adjusted a bit. Could be too big of a slow jet maybe pilot jet? Adjust needle height? Could be dumping way too much fuel. Interested to know what the compression is.

Impressed with the gas tank dowel reply. Thats exactly what they are.

I had to take the swing arm off to install a new chain slide. My first attempt was to use a soft mallet to tap it out. Didn't budge. Worked my way up to a 10 pound sledge and a chunk of wood to protect the threads. Fail. I came on this forum last night and found some old threads. Sounded like the air hammer was the way to go. Bought one today it cost me about 25 bucks. It came with chisels and a punch. I took a die grinder and cut off wheel and cut one of the chisels so it was just round stock. My next attempt was a success. I was very surprised it came off so much easier. The air hammer is the only way to to do it. I saved the bolt, threads were okay... I had to file some of the threads to clean them up. Reinstalled it and going up riding in the morning. I installed a new EK chain, TM designs chain rollers, TM chain guide near the sprocket, and a cascade chain slide that I had to remove the swinger to install. Not as bad as it sounds to remove. Bearings in the swinger were still good.. I didn't mess with them just put some grease on them. BTW I used a socket extension to push the bolt out once the air hammer couldn't reach.

You guys may want to check out St. Helen. They groom the trails. Its actually the main ORV trail that I ride, goes from Roscommon to southeast end of Houghton Lake. Gotta stash gas cans if you want to do the entire route. Its a rush, beats silver lake any day IMO.

the wires are replaceable on stock. They push in onto a pin on the inside. I took some RTV sealant and neatly pushed the wires into the coil. Once set the wires seemed to hold. Seals out water, not saying they are in for good but hold hold enough for riding. NGK Boots do get a little sloppy. May switch to MSD boots, I just need to get the little crimps.

try a fresh tank of fuel, clean air filter, sync carbs and try again with what you have. Repacking the mufflers helps too I guess. I found 6th to bog some on mine but I'm not touching it.

NGK plug boots are okay, you should be able to get them over the counter at your powersports dealer. I replaced my wires with some bulk wire from the powersports. The stock coil will have a tab that holds the wires in. It will break if you mess with it. I recommend leaving the wires on just cut them back 1 inch and screw on new boots. Or go with a NOLOGY coil if you can get one. Seems the ignition coils for these are very hard to get. Let me know if you find anything.

You want a good trued and welded crank with the best bearings you can get.

The connecting rod small end freeplay is 0.36mm-0.98mm. I just looked in my clymers manual. A 4 mil with ported cylinders, bigger carbs, cool head, domes, advanced timing will wake that thing up nicely. Its also a good time to go through the trans. Its easy, just make sure you take some pictures and make sure you put the c clips on the right way...

The vent was clear on mine, but the seal popped out anyways. I had too much oil in it. I found that the sealant I used caused the seal to slide out. Like some have said.... use no sealant. I wish these were grooved seals.

I would check the adjusting screw, clutch basket for grooves, and put a fresh clutch in along with new cable and do the star mod. Be carefull though, most do it wrong. Do not grind all of them. The neutral will be the notched point. Leave the point before this and after this alone. Round the others. Maybe someone can explain what I mean better.

I'm currently using the EBC clutch set up. I have about 4 hard rides on it with new, 4 mil, ported build, 10 paddle taller haulers..... still holding. Not expecting to last long but already payed for itself IMO.

I went through FAST. I like what they did on my port job, cut domes, and gave me the exact gaskets I need for the compression, and squish that I needed for the 4 mil build. I waited patiently since it was prime riding season....

Make sure you use cometic rubber coated metal gaskets to seal those reeds/manifold back to the cylinder. Its a common area to leak air and run the motor lean.

no. From what I get out of it..... if you are heating up the trans oil.... from riding long enough to warm it up... the pressure inside the case goes up. It just does... the vent on top of the trans case near the swingarm bolt should let this pressure build up escape or "breathe". If its clogged by dirt or whatever it will find a way to escape. Too much oil could cause this... check level after it has been ridden for long enough to warm up but let it sit for a few minutes to get an accurate reading.

happened to me couple weeks ago. I ended up putting it back in without any sealant. Yup I know, it sucks. Try having that happen on a freshly built motor, fresh paint all nice and clean and getting oil and sand all over everything.

Lots of info on here. Fun working on them..... but plan on spending some good money. If you want to ride again get another running banshee its cheaper. If you want to go faster than the other guy...... dig deep.