salmon_slayer06

For general riding like at dunes you want a bigger rim for less tire wobble and side wobble. So the 10" rims with a 20 inch tire is about right. You won't like the ballon style for riding around but good for drag racing.

500 I'd just get like new factory rear shock which is a good shock and some used aftermarket fronts.

The Elka stage 3's probably good factory replacement. Just call them direct and see what deals they have. Bought these for banshee and a long travel system for a 400ex cost me same for both machines.

Hot rod 4 mil fast 421 dune play port noss head vforce 4 pwk carbs no box stock oem clutch stiff springs modded shift shaft and drum bearings installed toomey pipes it rips for trails. It's about as far as I can go on a j arm. I'm too big for it geometry not right needs taller bars be nice if longer in front too.

you need to get the jetting correct on this and make sure no air leaks in motor. Some things to look at reeds might need replacing, pilot jetting too rich maybe explains the no start when hot but starts when cold... also have an extra oem stator on hand as well as oem coil. Cdi's usually work or don't but wouldn't hurt to have one as well.

from my experience in cold weather you can't feed a 2 stroke enough fuel. Be careful on long pull the stock petcock can't keep up. I found out the hard way. Make sure to upsize your slow jet too. Should start easier as well but if muddy on low end after it's warmed up probably too Rich you can adjust this with air screw I believe.

you want 2. One to replace and one on hand for a long weekend. Get new oem or used oem. Anything else you are gambling so better have a few on hand

The drag banshees they build on here are the real deal. Not just a bunch of chrome bolt ons.

No idea but nice 89 j arm banshee. Just got back from 2nd trip of season. Came a long way from what it was when I bought it. I can say I'm very satisfied with it. Id save those plastics

If having trouble removing swing arm bolt an air hammer with cut blunt end attachment and bolt will push out effortlessly.

Thanks for the tips. I didn't know i could straighten that out. I have a twist throttle, stock clutch cable and longer front brake lines for the wider arms.

What are the taller riders using. The banshee doesn't feel comfortable and i need to do something about it for handling and safety. The quad has been rolled and the upper frame is tweaked as taking the gas tank off requires a bit of wrestling. So i dont know what to expect or if i can easily fix that issue... thanks

I keep my gas cans in the shade and its more to do with preventing evaporating and keeping oil ratio exact....

try a stainless steel spring and slide that over the hose. Same principle with the spring on radiator hose....

Get 2 coils. If you ride hard on weekends id get a stator a cdi isn't necessary.

My thoughts are could be sign of cdi going, stator, or coil. Fresh plugs, trim back plug wires, install new plug caps and that's about the easiest and cheapest. Imo it's very wise to have s spare set of oem coil, stator and cdi. Just get them from motor city atv as he has a lot of them. Used they are still better than the best aftermarket.

Cool thanks.

how long till these start to groove up on a mild build motor

Make sure to replace idler gear bushing and c clip. Clutch basket teeth will get grooved. A little filing to smooth these out is fine and makes a huge difference. I'm on the original clutch setup on mine and it's older than most people on here and I touch it up every time it's apart. I don't know what the limit is on these. They say the anodized ones have a hard coating that does not groove.

Good replacements are the Elka 3's. I wish mine was an a arm I would have long travel and shocks with high and low speed. The 3's don't have both. If racetechs were easier to get I would have those. If you want to spend less than a grand get the Elkas. Damn flatlanders with there borrowed from the bank side by sides are ruining the trails up north. With the 3's on mine it's a bit better than stock not much. Brothers 400ex had blown tcs shocks rode very nice. Converted that to alba long travel arms and Elka 3 long travel got all 3 for 900 something best money ever spent. Have yet to test on trail look good though same price standard or long.

It's very easy to bypass all the bs on the wire harness. From stator plug cdi directly into it. From cdi orange goes to coil. Black wire ties in with black from stator, goes to ground, goes to coil, and one other wire I believe red with stripe goes to black. One wire from cdi is taped off. This will bypass all lighting, possible shorts in harness, etc. I moved my cdi between seat and gas tank using jds bracket. Ground wire I went to the tab where tors box used to be. Remove paint here. You can use wire nuts to help diagnose problem and than make a nice harness once you fix it. I replace coil wires with new ones. Push them in good use rtv to keep them in there. Ngk makes new boots autozone has them. Wires can be bought in bulk.

Try building a motor than buy the suspension parts swinger axles, stator, Hinson clutch.. like 3 grand for clutch alone, steering stem, blue label wheels razor tires, shearer in frame pipes, carbs, v4 reeds, fuel valve, etc than get a used frame online. You want new crank, new bearings in motor all around. Used engine case is fine. You can buy good used trans gears online. Get new forks, new shift shaft new star and idler bushing and clip. Boxes and boxes of goodies piled up to the ceiling. Do a 4 mill serval.

Huh. I thought these were designed for the drag guys. I didn't know they made wider axles like ones used for trails and such.

I have the original collar on mine and it's an 89. I think I reversed it and the groove does not ride in that oil seal lip. The seal can be installed without pulling motor. Seal does not have a lip around the outside of it so it slides right on in.