BansheeTeam

What gains should I get with this method and what if it weren't just "cleaning out the holes"

Hey guys i'm just wondering how much PSI should I get when doing a compression check now that I've done a rebuild with an OEM .50 over piston and that the stock head is milled 0.020" I'm also getting a port job and i've heard it'll lower my compression if so by how much? It's mainly just a basic port job (as some people say "cleaning out the holes") What if to balance things out I get a pro design cool head or noss head with lets say 21cc domes or maybe 20cc's if their usable with 95 octane gas. ------------ MODS: OEM .50 over pistons Stock Milled head ( 0.020" ) +4 Timing Advance Toomey T5 V-Force 4 Pod K&N's w/ outer-wears Motion pro T.O.R.S removal kit 15/42 gearing Port job 300 main / 30 pilot / 3rd groove dyno-jet needle ____________

Then what would be the best way to break it in? Sorry i'm just worried and don't want anything else to go wrong i've taken a look at the cylinders they're scratched up and the pistons were beat i'm working with the best guy in town now I shouldn't have worked with the guy I did work with the first time... I can't afford sending them anywhere, jesus I can barley afford getting this job done.

My story... I've used my 2006 banshee since I got it from the showroom back in 2007 with no problems until I decided to fresh'in things up a month ago by doing an overhaul or a complete rebuilt... And so I asked around and was always looking to keep reliability up so they told me OEM pistons was the way to go but I wanted a bit of extra bang and decided to go with Wiseco .25 over since I needed to have my cylinders bored I figured why not. So I got Wiseco's kit and had the cylinders bored (one size over stock) and the stock head milled 0.020" so I can still run pump gas (95 octane in my country). The guy who done the rebuilt for me also suggested to go with Pro-x bearings for the crank and so I did and after the built was complete I allowed approximately 8 hours for break-in... Did not ride WOT until after the 8 and so hours. I also had my clutches replaced with the standard OEM ones during the rebuild... Here is where problems started. After riding WOT the bike just felt wrong, with not as much power as I expected.. almost felt like I never got a rebuilt in the first place, when I told this to my friend he said that this is because the bike isn't tuned yet and needs to get the carb synced along with the air screws adjusted bla bla bla. Took it to my banshee buddy (has serious experience with banshees cause he only works on them and other 2 stocks). All of a sudden he told me that the block was tight and that the place that had my cylinders bored did something wrong and didn't know how to specially for Wiseco pistons since they expand as they are heated est. He says he knows of this information due to past experience with his banshee, anyways I did the basic carb tuning and went out for a ride. Found myself a nice decent road to hit 6th gear at WOT after holding the throttle wide open for around 8 seconds the shee just switched off :s so I pulled in the clutch leaver until slowing down threw it to 4th gear and let go of the clutch she worked just fine but I immediately returned back to report the problem to my banshee buddy. He said that defiantly means the block was tight and the bike needed to re-opened for inspection. However they guy who put my bike together said that if it was it would have jammed in the first place and/or not even work... Making me confused so I just rode it for approximately 10 more hours and then decided to do a compression test and here is where things got bad... The test measured 90 PSI on the right piston and 105 PSI on the other. When I told this to my banshee buddy he said that she's dead and needs to be re-opened. So he's taken her apart and now found out that in fact it was due to the liner or whatever being tight. So now that I have to have my top end replaced I am going for OEM pistons .50 over (2 sizes over stock). I will also replace my clutches to the F.A.S.T w/ light springs clutches I have ordered. And my VF3 to the newly designed VF4. I will also get some porting done to my motor since it is disassembled, my buddy said he would charge me around 140$ which I figured isn't much. My question is how much richer should I jet after all this is done? My mods include: Toomey T5 Pod K&N's w/ outerwears VF3 (now switching to 4) Wiseco .25 (switching to OEM .50) Trinity Adjustable Timing Plate set to I think +4 (What would be best for me?) Please help. Milled stock head 0.020" 15/42 gearing (planning on 16/42 if all goes well) Motion Pro T.OR.S eliminator kit Moose Racing Boost Bottle (recently put the stock crossover tube instead) (should I throw the boost bottle back on?) 300 Dyno-jet main jet (Thinking of throwing in 340's after the rebuilt and port does it sound good?) 25 pilot (throwing in 30's after the rebuild) Dyno-jet needle (ordering a lowering kit for the front to help with drag racing) Thanks guys I know it's a long story but I need help and wanted to get things as clear as possible, Salman.

Anyone tried this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-for-ATV-YAMAHA-banshee-YFZ350-YFZ-350-oversized-Hose-BLUE-/190844008936?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6f3079e8 Seams pretty cool

I recently did a complete rebuild on my 06 shee (first time to do so). Had the head milled 0.020" and got wiseco .25's (wish I had just gotten the stock OEM pistons x_x) anyways I allowed for the break-in and had'nt pinned the throttle until after 8 hours of riding smoothly. I rode her until around 13 hours before taking her for tuning. It was until after the carb tuning the bike performed better, so to test her out i took her on a nice straight road, pinned the throttle all the way till 6th and kept it at WOT for around 8 seconds and immediately when i let go of the throttle the bike shut off (without warning or bogging rpm just dropped and ---- she was) so I pulled the clutch kept it driving freely and dropped to the 4th gear let go of the clutch and she worked again no problems drove her back to my banshee buddy and he said that the engined might've been damaged possibly because your block wasn't bored right and that wisecos extend when getting hot and when that happened the blocked was tight and jammed the piston but because I let her cool a couple of seconds it let go and worked again. I was scared as hell to ride her again until my friend told me to take of the plugs to see if there was any trace of metals, that way we would know if there was any damage or not. So i did and thankfully there were not, instead they were on the edge of dark brownish, so he told me to put them back in start her up after she cooled all the way down. Both exhausts gave out same amount of air and she ran completely normal. I re-fueled her and mixed slightly more oil went riding the same day and even took someone behind me just incase she dies again but nothing she ran perfectly. Can someone please explain to me what's the problem and whether I should or should not be worried. My friend who did the rebuild said that this is very likely to be a fuel issue and that I should probably rejet slightly richer and make sure the thing in the float bowl is straight... or something like that wasn't really clear to me. MODS: T5, Pod K&N's, VF3, + i'm not sure how much on the timing, 15/42 gearing, 300 main, stock 25 pilot, dynojet needle probably on the 3rd groove, motion pro T.O.R.S eliminator kit, moose boost bottle i intend to get rid of, and the wiseco's with the milled head "020 Thanks in advance

What if I was looking for more of a mid-top end what would be best?

I have a Trinity adjustable timing plate that i just put in, it has two adjusts to it instead of the usual single adjustable plates. What is the best degree to set them on? I think the secondary is set to 0 and the primary to +6 which I'm having a bad feeling about and worrying it might not be safe.. I need something safe while gaining the most bang. Also what should I have the secondary degree set to. I'm not familiar with this can someone please explain what difference does it make advancing to +1 or all the way up to +10 or the other way round what are the benefits. From all the homework i've done I see that most riders are set to +4. Thanks

Yoo guys I need to know more about this product. Is it Legit? Does it really help? I am looking for top end. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACKBOX-Adjustable-CDI-ECU-Ignition-Rev-Box-Yamaha-Banshee-350-97-98-99-00-01-/140790807541 I've seen other companies like Dynatek and AMR racing but thought this had a nice price tag to it and includes a one year warranty. MODS: Toomey T5, K&N Pods, VF3, Timing Advance, 300 mains, 15/42 gearing, Milled stock head .020", Wiseco .25 over and a Moose racing boost bottle that I plan on ditching Should I or not, I mean it does look cool lol. Thanks Guys

Surely I can pull way more than a 100 I was just saying it's funny it went that much with the least bit of throttle applied. I'm using the stock size tires I believe is 20 or 21.

Turns out my clutch lever was pulled more than it should've been.. Did the adjust from the lever on top to easen it out and now its runs like a beast. In for fine tuning now I'll ditch the boost bottle and I have a set of 30 pilots should I throw that in or stick to the stock 25's I can't get 27.5's here. Thanks everyone

I have the cross over tube I can put that in instead of the boost bottle but what should I expect. I run premium and in my country it's around 95 octane. I plan on using VP racing fuels with Maxima Castor 927 along with hotter plugs (7's) when the weather is cooler and only when I'll race

Alright so i've done around 7 hours on my 06 banshee after the rebuilt and I need help with the tuning since the throttle response is really weird.. At least throttle applied the bike wakes up all of a sudden and is able to do a 100 km/h easy and I don't really know if that's a good thing or not since at half throttle she screams loudly and not much power or force is being shown, I didn't get to try her at WOT yet however I intend to do so today! I'll also check out the plugs but i'm pretty sure it'll be darker than usual since i'm mixing more oil. (Usual mixture 40:1) (current and temporary mixture 18:600mL) I know it may sound a lot but a buddy of mine told me it's safer for a new built and that wiseco's usually need slightly more oil (i.e 36:1 instead of 40) Is that true? Elevation: sea level Temp. nowadays around 25 degrees Celsius (77 fahrenheit) + - + - Mods, Toomey T5's, pod K&N's no airbox, V-force 3, 15/42 gearing, Trinity timing plate (advanced to not sure how much but need advice on which is best), milled head .020" wiseco .25, moose boost bottle, motion pro torrs eliminator, 300 main 25 pilot, needle most likely to be in 3rd groove. Thanks guys.

Alright so I just had my T.O.R.S eliminated with a full motion pro kit and I did notice a bit of difference in the idle.. It seems kind of lower and quieter. It rides almost the same but I did notice a little bit of bog 2/3 of the throttle not at WOT. Is that a jetting issue? Do I need to rejet? The weather is almost the same as it was since I last dialed them in. My altitude is sea level weather is around 20 degrees Celsius (68) (plus-minus 5 degress c) I'm jetted with 300 mains and stock 25 pilots with Dynojet needles in 3rd groove I run toomey T-5 pipes, VF3 reeds, +5.5 Timing, Moose racing boost bottle, max speed ignition wires (spark plug caps with less resistance), K&N Powerlid filter, 15/41 gearing. What should I do to fix this problem? I'm Curious about idle/air screw or that other one that was installed or that is replacing the old one now its shiny and golden it came with the kit it isn't screwed it all the way like its only half way in you can tell by just looking at it, should i try and give em a couple of turns? In or out? I think thats probably causing the bog. I have 30 pilots laying around should I throw them in instead of the stock 25's what about my mains the weather's going to warm up soon im thinking of throwing in 280 mains should I leave the stock pilots or 30's? Another thing. When I had my tors eliminator kit installed I asked for a compression test and they told me im running 125 PSI and we'll i've never ever touched my pistons, ring pistons est. Since i first got it from the yamaha dealer back in 2007. I'm now greedy for some more power what should I do other than porting. I thought of a coolhead with 21cc domes but my bike runs at a very good temperature according to my trail tech vapor i mostly am around 60 (140 Fahrenheit). So i thought of bigger carbs but I think i'd have a lot of jetting problems. I thought of wiesco pistons with new rings since i never did a new top end but then I thought if I don't have any problems why do it, it's not like i'll see big gains... Or will I? Please help me out guys, I wanna make it more powerful! Thanks

It's my first time to change the pistons since I first got in from the showroom back in 2006. Which to go for .10 or .25? I need reliability first then I'd love to have a bit of extra power preferably mid to top'ish. Also Wiesco or Vertex. I've never replaced the pistons but I think these ones are running just fine i could pull 93 mph. I have bolt on's. Toomey T-5, VF3, K&N powerlid w/ 300 main, +5.5 timing, Moose racing boost bottle, max speed less resistor plug wires, 15/41 gearing. Raptor 700 rear dunlop tires (truly an amazing tire)