mike0chek

ok i got the leaks all fixed but now my carbs are dripping gas out the overflows when the bike is not on, i tried tapping the bowls lightly but no luck

i bought some 1/4 inch line that fits much better, is it a big enough line to feed the 35mm carbs?? i got a dual pingle

i agree with you guys when you say the line is too big but it fits the pingle valve just right and does not leak but the fitting on the carb is smaller and leaks even with a clamp

so i just got done doing a full rebuild on my 01 banshee, 4 mill crank and 421 drag ported head. bike starts up great but im having trouble getting my gas lines to stop leaking. it leaks where the gas line feeds the carb (brand new 35mm keinins) the carbs do not come with any clamps for the lines so ive been trying different size clamps that i have but cant seem to get a good seal! anyone got any good tips for doing this?? i gotta say im very dissapoited in how many parts didnt come in these so called "bolt on kits"

ok thanks man

is there a special throttle cable required for these carbs?? (35mm carbs) i have a new kimpex throttle cable for thumb and the fittings are different on the cable compared to tops of carbs

and i run 93 oct fuel at about 40:1, pics soon to come

my bike is ported, stock bore and stroke, toomy t4's, k&n with holes in lid, vforce reeds, coolhead, plus 5 timing, stock carbs

hey guys, just pulled the jugs off my banshee to see that that pistons were beat and chewed pretty bad on the top, the bottoms were even missing a significant amount lol can anuone tell me what the cause of this would be?? ive seen small pieces broke off before but this looks pretty bad lol also the cylinders look great.

yes i have it at .020

spark plugs have great spark and the pickup coil gap is .020

hey guys so my stator went bad on me and i just got done installing a brand new one from yamaha. now after getting it back together the bike started extremely hard about 50 kicks playing with the choke and throttle. once it was running it would idle pretty decent but when i hit the gas it didnt have that crisp response that it used to (feels like its bogging). the onlly thing i have done to the bike besides change the stator was put an adjustable timing plate on set to 4+ degrees ( the old plate was notched by previous owner and looked to be about 4+ degrees)

so im collecting all the parts i need to build my 421cc this winter and need some info on which air filters to get. so the head is being done by kev and is getting the full drag port along with the 4mill crank, im also getting in frame shearer pipes and 35mm carbs to feed it. i go riding in some pretty wet trails sometimes and was wondering if anyone could tell me if having the airbox removed is a bad idea because of that. and whats the best filters to use if i do remove the box. thx

i dont wanna order it and only get one set lol

ok cool can anyone tell me if this is just one set of header and tailpipe? the site is unclear http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/wildcardracing/-strse-44/cpi,-pipes,-inframe,-350,/Detail.bok

where is the best place to get a set of front to back cpi inframes?? i hear not many places stock them and i dont wanna be on back order forever lol also im located in canada. thx

so i found the frame ground under my seat and its the only one on the bike. i cleaned it up with some sand paper and still no lights

ok sweet, ya i dont recall seeing a ground go to the frame so that must be it, hopefully ill have time after work to check it out, the wiring is quite a mess on my shee lol the whole thing should be redone

ill have to look at that ground for the lights cuz i think its going into the key switch, so are u saying it should be grounded to the frame?? not sure if the TORS is hooked up or not, and the parking brake has been cut off and just hanging there (green/yellow wire) could that short the system?

**update** checked the stators resistance and got 2.7...... so that seems normal according to the book.... anyone wanna chime in here lol

the key has been removed and hard wired together, i took the wires apart and the bike would not start so i know thats what they did. The headlights do not work at all high or low, not even a flicker. we tested the bulbs with two different meters and got the same readings for both, i even grabbed one of my brothers bulbs from his 06 shee that works on his and still no lights. and last we to a reading with the bike running right where the bulbs make there contact and had good numbers, the numbers changed when switched from high to low so the switch seems fine. my friends seem to think that something isnt working right because the key switch is gone but i dont know wut to try next

well from wut i can see that has been done already i can see where they sliced them together

oh and it is a 2001 banshee so it has the old electrical system

hey guys just tryin to get my banshee headlights to work. ive tested the bulbs and they seem to be working normally, also tested the wires to the bulbs and they are getting power, when i switch from high to low the voltage changes as i believe it should? the ignition has been removed from this bike and the bike starts and runs great, is there a trick to getting the lights to work with no ignition?? any help is very useful right now lol thanks

right on guys looks like ill give herr jugs a call, stupid post office here in canada is on strike so ill wait till they are up and running