mike0chek

any banshee i have seen oem come with a washer behind the flanged nut to hold the rim to hub. i am mounting brand new dwt rims and wondering if i should buy some washers to go with the flanged lug nuts i have. they are 20mm at the flange so close to the oem yamaha lug nuts in size. is the washer simply just to stop the nut from digging in the aluminum rim?

Absolutely, I've done a fair amount of research on the lock up before buying and agree with you. Hopefully with some personal riding adjustments and trying a different shifter angle will iron most of this out. Thanks for your input Ted. Sent from my SM-J337W using Tapatalk

Also I just dropped the frame and parts off for powder coating so it will be a little bit before I can report back but I certainly will let you guys know. Thanks for the replies fellas! Sent from my SM-J337W using Tapatalk

Well the bike was shifting fine until I installed a slingshot lock up last fall. Before that I was running a fast kit with HD springs and it was slipping up top in the high revs. The slingshot stopped the slipping completely but I struggled to shift into 4th and 5th quite a few times under heavy load. I doubt the pro mod will 100% solve the issue but my gears were showing wear and I i also wanted to replace all of the tranny bearings so I figured perfect time for a pro mod. I had a 2006 tranny in great shape that I sent out for the mod so I'm expecting good results. Sent from my SM-J337W using Tapatalk

Hey guys, tore my cub down to install a pro mod tranny and noticed a couple spots on the cylinders. Do these need replating? Had 137-139psi compression right before I took it apart with pump gas domes (24cc) second set of wiseco pistons had some minor scuffing on them so I'm replacing them for sure. Otherwise the bike was running strong, just had shifting issues. Sent from my SM-J337W using Tapatalk

still for sale?

ive always been able to put the bike in gear with the engine off, pull the clutch and the bike will roll. i cannot do this since i installed billet basket new pressure plate and new inner hub??

sling shot fit under oem clutch cover?? im starting to think my clutch is not staying fully engaged at WOT sometimes. my clutch ball looks fine so does the pushrod no mushrooming on the ends. i noticed the adjuster on the pancake bearing is pretty well maxed out to get the arm and case marks lined up under the carb. should i have any threads still on the adjuster? im going to pull the clutch arm out next

hey guys, had my 4mil out on some logging roads a few weeks ago and felt like my clutch was slipping a tiny bit at WOT 5th and 6th gear. seemed to be over revving at the top of those gear slightly. still hit 149kph on my gps but ive seen closer to 160kph in the past with the same 15/41 gears. its a 4mil 421 cub hjr full drag port, shearer pipes, VF4's, 35mm keihins oversized bowls, 8 inch pods, +4 timing on pump gas. so i pulled the clutch last night to inspect and install some parts. it has HD plates and springs from fast with not many hours on them. oil that drained looked fine and so did the plates (no glazing) i replaced the stock basket that i had filed down grooves in the past with a chariot billet basket along with new oem pressure plate and oem hub. is this clutch setup enough to handle the power my engine is making?? or something else causing the minor slipping? is there anything else i should inspect or modify before putting clutch cover back on? also, what oil is best for this type motor?? it shifts like butter and does not creep foward at all with the clutch pulled in

cool thx man, im looking on prism powder coating and they have so many reds to pick from its hard to tell

i have elka legacy shocks and want to powder coat some parts the same red. anyone know if elka is anodized red or???

nice progress man, i recently installed the same suspension ur gonna like it

are they stock plastics?

x100 very helpful/competitive prices

couldnt agree more, stock shocks are trash so is a stock head. so trade spend roughly 375 and have a nice cheap suspension upgrade compared to $1200+ for elkas

^^^ this happens waaay too much lol its worth what its worth to each individual

i would not run them, but post some pics of the domes/piston failure. i thought 160psi is pushing your limits for pump fuel? someone else confirm that? if you do replace the domes maybe drop your compression to something safer for pump gas?

right on. i just remember going from ported stock cages with boysen peddles to v force's and hold on harvey!

lmao!

damn right man i like getting new tools as much as new parts lol^^

drag port it and put those bikes behind you lol

this one was dialed in pretty good running vp110, but im sure more power is on the table

and im not bashing no zillas to be clear lol i finally got to drive one last year and def impressive torque but didnt scream up top like the shee

well its easy for him to not lose a drag race if he hides from drag banshees lol just saying...

are you sure your not driving a blaster?? a tuned 4mil is tough to beat with those single cyl setups