#1BADASSBANSHEE

THAT IS VERY WELL PUT GOOD WAY OF EXPLAINING IT.

sorry trying to use my phone for that reply didnt work so well so here we go again the sand prep he is talking about is a ppg automotive product i think the # is dx103 but not sure i havent used it in a long time. you can just use a little joy dish soap and a red scotch bright. the isopropyl is the same thing you get at wallmart. and no not spray adhesive. adhesion promoter. the sealer is a primer. the color of the plastic does not matter it will be covered by new paint. the color will be called base coat it will dry to a flat finish. you then put clear to make it shine. these products will all be available at an auto body and paint supply.

I work for a paint manufacture in the lab! most paint chips are inks! and I just bent a paint variant chip that is actual paint not ink and it cracked. yes prep does matter on how it stick and looks but has nothing to do with being brittle.

450 fenders are mor ridged than banshee. and prep has nothing to do with paint cracking!

if your fenders are not cut you should not try to paint it. the fenders will flex to much and crack the paint. flex additive won't do any good as it is just a long lasting solvent that makes paint flexible for a short time it eventually evaporate. flex is used for the painting of plastic bumpers off the car to give it some flex while putting on the bumper but eventually go hard and not flexible. i use 320 grit paper lean with a isopropal then ppg dpx801 plastic adhesion promoter then a thin coat of epoxy primer if you see any scratches or burs frum the plastic scuff with 600 to 800 then base with dbc and clear get the best clear you can afford. try not to anything on to thick as the thicker the film the more brittle it is. I would never use krylon any thing. just visit an automotive pait distributer thay all have what you need. brand is just preference.

I have friends with powder coated frames and my painted frame looks way better! with alot better gloss. alot!!!

and? it says nothing about being as glossy as a automotive clearcoat. of course that can put clear on it it still won't be as shiny as paint.

powder will never be as glossy as a good clear! my last paint job on my frame lasted ten years and still looked awesome. powder may be durable but so is a good quality automotive paint!

sand blast and paint it right will hold up just as good as powder and will have a lot more gloss! don't use shit paint from a rattle can!

IF YOUR DOING A 421 YOU NEED BIGGER CARBS!

FOR WHAT YOUR GOING TO SPEND ON NEW CYLINDERS PORTING AND CRANK YOU SHOULD JUST GET A 421 CHEETAH CUB KIT IT WILL COME WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED. AND BE ONE BAD ASS MOFO!

RUN WISECO THEY DONT BREAK. J/C I WOULD DEF BORE. THAT METAL HAD TO SCAR THE CYLINDER WALLS IT DOESNT TAKE MUCH. IT SHOULD NOT COST THAT MUCH TO BORE. $ 60-65 A SIDE. UNLESS YOU WANT TO DO IT TWICE.

LOOKS LIKE MINE DID WHEN I HAD A BLOWN OUT SHOCK!

GET IT BLASTED THE ONLY WAY TO GO. ITS NOT HARD TO PAINT TRY IT ON SOMETHING ELS FIRST JUST TO GET THE HANG OF IT. I DID MINE BUT I WORK FOR A PAINT MANUFACTURE. SO I SPRAY ALL THE TIME.