Azryll

Thx for measuring. I went out and measured my stock a arms and got 11.5" and resting sag with no weight on the bike and 12.5" and full height extension (thats with 21" fronts and the same measuring point you used). Which did you measure yours at? If it was at resting sag and was only .5" difference thats not bad. The lowered look in the pic could just be angle and the bumper you have, at least thats what I was hoping.

The bottom of the front of the frame either where the bumper is or if yours is in the way between the where the lower a arm bolts on.Thx

@ CrazyBRONCOguy can you measure the ride height up front from the ground to the bottom of the frame? I can't tell it if sits just a little lower or much further because of the bumpber. Thx

Cool, thx Matt. I didn't know if it change the way the arms came up to give a more plush ride(more of a up and back motion when in travel). Seems like most other arms for other bikes just go out, not forward so I was just curious why most banshee arms have +1 forward. I thought maybe it was to move the weight back since they are front heavy as is.

Seems like most Banshee guys go with 2+1. Whats the reason for adding an inch to the front that and is it that much better than +2?

what everyone else said, impeller, larger radiator, make sure you not idling and have proper jetting. Check for any air leaks, broken impeller, or not going fast enough to get air thru the radiator. Has it always done this or just started? Do any Mods that might of changed things?

I've rand D.I.D and they are a great chain but recently switched to EK MVXZ x-ring chain. It has a 9k tensile strength on it so you can beat the crap out of it for years as long as you do regular maintenance. The are a little cheaper than D.I.D and stronger. Everyone is gonna have a different opinion based on what they run and had experience with. Get a brand with a good rep and nothing super cheap or you will be buying new cases and having a shitty day riding.

nice welds!

right....

Look like stockers to me

I'd mute the volume before you watch....

It definitely comes down to more than just the spring, internals are a factor as well. I was just pointing some of the flaws out besides being a crappy shock in general. Why would alot of MX guys use a single rate spring? You would lose so much adjustment especially going from track to track. Even the level entry Elka stage 1 are dual rate and pretty much any quality aftermarket shock on the market. With a single rate all you can't adjust is preload on the spring (not talking about valving- compression and rebound). You would have to have a ton of extra springs laying around. With multi rate you can adjust this with a wrench to dial them in. Hopefully Matt chimes in cause he will know tons more than me

Most progressive springs are pretty generic. We do not all weigh, ride, or drive on the same terrain. With a multi-rate (two or more linear springs) each spring is picked for your needs, plus you can adjust the initial rate, the transition between springs, and the final rate. You can get a almost limitless setup thats custom tailored for you. They offer a softer initial compression while allowing you to decide when the cross over point is, giving a smoother ride.

looks like chinese junk to me. They are progressive shocks just like stockers. The point of aftermarket shocks is multi-rate springs and setup for your riding style and weight so they perform right. I wouldn't waste my money on these, yfz or raptor shocks. They are not they same length so its gonna change your ride height, still using progressive spring, and not setup for you. Just save your money, buy a quality shock and you won't regret it.

I think they are some old school Roll design arms as well

I like that orange and white combo you got going but your shocks are upside down

I had my 4 mil built and Redline and I love it. His prices are good and is good at explaining what you need and dont really if your on a budget. I would call around youself and gather your own opinion of who you want to port it and such. Quality work and good customer service goes along way with me.

Send it to one of the sponsors on the site that do porting. They have lots of experience and can port it to your riding style for about $250-400 give or take. I wouldn't try and port it yourself, you'll just end up with some redneck port job that blows and then you will have to buy new cylinders and then have to pay to port it.

If your gonna rebuild the top end I would look at getting ported. That with a cool head to bump up the compression will give you alot more power.

What oil are you using? I started using Torco GP-7 and it burns really clean. If I havn't started it for a week or two it will smoke a bit till it gets warm and after that you don't see it at all the rest of the day. Usually bikes only smoke excessive if not tuned correctly or with certain oils.

http://www.colorrite.com/ has all the colors, just use the paint wizard and you'll find exactly what ya need. I'm pretty sure they are the only official manufacturer for most bike companies so they charge an arm and a leg. Its about $35 per spray can

You can try moving the shifter up a spline to get your boot in their. I've had to do that with some of my moto boots. Other than that if you have some welding skills chop them off and move them farther back

I would get precision shock and vibe mounts http://www.precision-rp.com/shockvibe.htm then you can run any single bend/bar type you like. I've had good look with the trail tech bars as well but any of the ones mentioned Im sure make quality stuff

@Jasons those look nice. I wanted some wider pegs but didn't want to spend $180+ on them so I just bought a extra set of pegs cut them off the mount then bolted them up. It looks pretty good I think and works great.

22x11x8's ftw, those in a 9 or 10 paddle will hook up much better. My 20's with 10 in rims were good for turning on a dime but sucked at hook up. Bigger tire with more sidewall will help tons.