ginger

i was going to say i had a air filter issue that caused something similar.

if its stock pilot i would guess it is small, but elevation would confirm that. assume your trying to start it with the choke on? do yourself a favor and ditch the boost bottle before it burns up your motor.

are they rod ends or ball joints?

dude, we ask questions to help you. you wont disclose who the builder is, and but you can give lots of information that doesnt let us help you. each builders porting is different, one guys mx port might be a mild drag port by the other. most name brand guys are known on here. you can normally have a good trail bike that can drag half decent, or a drag bike that can trail half decent, you aren't going to get a bike that's amazing at both. have the bike made to whatever you do more of, and then just deal with it on the other situation. also going off on people is just going to cause more shit to come your way. especially to some of the members that have been on here for a long time.

the jet size is stamped into the jet.

sounds like your bog issue and your excess fuel in the exhaust is too rich of a main jet to me. I always just went as tight as i could with my hands for the top of the carbs. I would get the rebuilt kits from the sponsor FAST on there, they keep them in stock. and those are the correct plugs. I think i answered most of your questions lol

that is just the overflow. In reality to have a airless system, you want it to go into a bottle with coolant in it, so when it cools down the system can recover that coolant back into the rad, but in most applications it wont effect anything

what type of riding do you do? just dunes?

do you have a price for the a arms themselves? i dont need anything else lol

epoxy? its not hard to weld stainless. lol

it reality is isnt going to change the loudness a ton, just the direction the loudness will be. That being said, i would go more for a 45" turn down. you want something like this https://www.mcmaster.com/#elbows/=1ds998v i would also make a sheet metal flange so if you dont like them, they just unbolt.

once you get the right length lock tite them, they will slowly vibrate loose.

depends on your order options. Standards run stock shocks, long travel run special long travel shocks. IDK if alba makes a YFZ shock a arm anymore since yfz shocks stuck on a banshee

where are you located at?

not unless you are jumping it or anything. just keep it in mind and upgrade to better a arms at some point. factory a arms suck anyway.

you need to atleast split the cases and look for the obvious, they dont just lock up unless something goes wrong.

this guy :facepalm:

pipes i would look as SLP. you want to get your cylinders ported by a good guy that does it often. i would say pwk style 28mm carbs would be my choice. the 2-1 setup isnt that great unless you want to spend some money.

car wax doesnt work worth a shit on plastics. i use Maxima SP1 plastic shine, or this company names Slick makes a plastic shine.

get a NOSS head Fast stocks them and can cut you custom domes if you want to up the compression a little.

PWK28's are a good mod to me, because they simplify the carb setup, dont need to worry about which bowl is which, a choke tube, or anything. If he wants more power, best bang for the buck is port work.

best looking bike i have seen with the big tank.

warm fuel causes pre-detonation and vaporization. hurts power and can cause you to technically run leaner. on top of losing power. granted im sure it isnt as big of a deal on pump gas as it is on race or alcohol.

you want your fuel line as far away anyway, being you are losing power by heating fuel up, and risk fire in reality. I would see if the pipe can get pushed out some, or there has to be a way to route it.

assuming he isnt running a recovery bottle it will be low when cool. when up to temp its going to push coolant out. without the bottle to recover the fluid, when it cools down it will suck air in.