ginger

you should be fine as long as just the piston diameter is changing, 66 is as big as you can go on factory cylinders etc unless you sleeve them. which then you would need to worry about the head.

also gearing will play a factor in where your power is.

everything else in the bottom end stock?

is your compression testing guage a high quality one or a cheap harbor freight? The cheap ones are not accurate. but if you legit only have 60psi per cylinder, you need a top end rebuild.

synthetic oil is synthetic oil, it all meets the same standards unless you are getting into the crazy stuff with extra zinc etc. Lucas will work just as good as mobile etc.

it would lean it. less oil, leaner the motor. otherwise running no oil would be richer. but to a certain point it drops octane meaning less power at the same time. Qlip, proper is based off your jetting. most people i would say run 40:1 but you will see 32:1 and you will see 50:1

40:1 is less oil than 32:1

i like how you had to dig through my old posts to see anything about me.....

you can say whatever you want to say. maybe spray some more green spraypaint on the cylinder walls to fill the scratches lol

only thing you can really do is space the pipe hanger away from the frame more on the front or back, or pry on it some. there isnt any set in stone solution.

I have some while uncut fenders front and rear, they arent perfect, but they are pretty decent. I also have a set of LRD pipes and silencers. they were adjustable LRD but they kept leaking so they were tig welded where the adjustable part it. Cant even tell unless you are looking for it. 200 shipped for the pipes, 300 shipped for the plastics.

there is no such thing as re manufactured cylinders. They either are Chinese knock offs or they have been bored to an oversize/ someone spent money to sleeve them. which i wouldn't understand why.

check your compression and do a leak down to make sure everything went together right.

i like Klotz supertechniplate, Maxima 927, my favorite is Powermist but it is hard to come by.

depends on what you ride on. if its dunes/sand you dont need it. woods/rocky areas, i would recommend something to keep it from bending a rotor out there. I have JD's newest style kit, and it works great, i just bent the tool i use for adjusting the chain so it clears the sprocket guard.

i tried it with some left over ms109 and it was way to tough on the motor, ended up hurting it and having to rebuild. if you want oxygenated fuel, go with alky, otherwise stick to reg racing gas if you are high compression.

what oil to gas ratio did you mix the fuel?

I have a set of OEM. Im dont remember if they have any scuffs or not. been a few years with them in the back of my warehouse.

he wants the rubber part that goes in between the bolt and the silencer when mounting it to the frame.

you most likely have to call up whoever made your pipes.

I have a set of LRD Adjustables that i would like to sell. They have been welded on, they are no longer adjustable, as they started to leak there, and one of the stingers had a crack fixed where the stinger meets the silencer. Both really clean tig welded jobs. Also a set of White OEM fenders. Have some scuffs and a little staining, not new, but they are in good shape and have no fender sag. Looking for $200 plus shipping on the pipes. and $200 plus shipping on the fenders. Located in NJ This is the best picture i have of them right now. If your interested i can get some better pictures for you. Both are in my storage right now.

and you have the choke tube hooked up right?

your air mixture screw about 1-1/2 turns out?

i believe so, i know i cant fit a bigger sprocket on the front with my case saver, or a smaller sprocket on the rear with the stock hub.

mine dont sign off that early, but im also geared way different than most.