ginger

you dont want to buy anything from this hack. and he hasnt been online in years, since he screwed enough people over.

very true. easiest way to tell is if there is a boost bottle on it. tell tail sign of someone who doesnt know what they are doing.

it could be not enough octane, when was the last time you checked them?

depending on your bore, i would just get the minimum bore job done with fresh pistons, that way you know you are good to go.

well check the clutch, it may just need to be adjusted.....

depending on how bad the clutch is, you can put it in gear and turn the rear tires, if it doesnt turn the motor over, then you have a very badly worn clutch.

what is the needle position?

stock carbs right? slides in the right direction? does it run decent for like a minute and then die? i had a dirty petcock screen cause issues like that.

do a plug chop and see where you are at.

the reasoning that its hard to start is the lower compression.

in my experience avoid starting fluid, it washes down the cylinders of any lubrication.

no it was the coil, but the coil will help us know if its a rich or lean issue.

what do the plugs look like? i have had a similar issue, when the coil got hot, it stopped working until it was cooled down.

what about your bald rears? lol

this is dumber then the guy with the 400 dirtbike motor in the banshee.

it looks like your one side has a a arm spindle, but no caliper, and the other side has a j arm setup. so you are going to want to replace one of your spindles so they are the same setup one each side, either another j arm spindle, and run all the j arm brakes, or another a arm, and 2 calipers for a arm brakes.

fuck dumping any money into stock carbs, get some pwk28's and be done.

I wonder is a heli coil wold work or if it would cause a air leak

I used either maxima 80-90w wet clutch trans fluid or scheaffers equivalent since I have a 5 gallon bucket of it

building a banshee and pocket friendly do not go together. thats like oil and water.

soaking them can hurt the reeds

that wiesco crank is fine, whoever you have do the port work, have them check it out, balance and weld it. There is power to get out of the stock cylinders with port work for sure. basically you need to figure out what it will cost for each setup, (stock cylinders, porting, ETC) or (driveline cylinders, porting, ETC.) you can definitely get more power out of the aftermarket cylinders, but it all depends on what is costs. another option if you wanted was to buy some virgin cylinders, and then upgrade to a 4mil crank and gain power as well.

they would make more clearance,but not needed, i run stock boots, and just the little tube off the bottom of the bowl just touches the clip that holds the actuator down, i have never had an issue from it though.

now your having your buddy check out the bottom end? the same one that didnt know shit before?

your going to want to learn some of the basics like this stuff, because at some point you will need to know this stuff to a point.