ginger

i ran LRD pipes on my stock cylinder 4 mil with no issues.

it sounds like a carb sync deal to me as well.

i have always done .020

if it is still only 125 then that is a big issue.

same tires and sprockets as before? if the gears are really short, it would make me think gearing or jetting.

have you done a plug chop? btw normally if plugs are backing out, its detonation.

i didnt change my pilot when i went to v4's but i also was always rich.

its not the gas/mix ratio, its the jetting that will make it run hot.

how many times to we have to answer the same question?

only time i ever miss a shift is 1st to second every once and a while while drag racing, most of the time it is fine.

aftermarket coils generally fail, i didn't know anyone made an aftermarket regulator.

look at the last time the OP posted. your posting in a dead thread.

interesting. i may have to look into it next time i have to pull mine apart.

doe the pro mod trans hold up to deceleration well? being i ride trails where i use the motor to slow me down some.

^^^ Very true statement.

if he has the tank in the back with the hose hooked up, it wouldn't be a leak in the front.

you can kinda tell, i was gonna guess round but figured you would want to make it clear for someone.

slp run really well, but the power comes in a lot lower in the RPM range and falls off faster.

might want to confirm is its a round plug or square plug,

where did it spit it out of? the front of the quad, the back of the quad? i had pinhole in my rad, and it wouldnt leak until it started to heat up and build pressure.

i always thought mine ran better when i had toomey needles. i hated stock carbs compared to PWK's. It could be electrical. T6's are good on a stock bike, but not a pipe for aftermarket mods.

there are tons of options out there for arms, if you stick with a brand that is either a brand name, or known for quality. you will be fine.

all my rod ends are loose. again mine are prolly 8 years old though too. easy to replace with quality rod ends, but i want a bushing style front end if im spending any money.

it all depends on the arms you buy. the +2 wide is 2" wider on each side, allows you to be more stable, and allows some more travel. the +1 moves the spindle 1" forward, this basiaclly allows you to get more traction as it technically moves the motor back in the wheelbase. the +2 will give you the wider look. and i dont think i have seen arms that are +2 without being +1 forward. brake lines should still work, but they will be tight. switching to steel braided lines is cheap, and gives you a must better feel in the handle. you can run stock shocks, as long as the arms are made for stock location. basically you have standard, yfs conversion, and long travel. long travel hasits own style of a arm, so you dont have to worry about that, yfz isnt worth the time, and standard is what most people run. you can run stock shocks, but a set of shocks made for you based off the a arms, your weight, and the type of riding you do will make a huge difference.

i have full flights at the moment. they came on the quad, and i didnt have the money to replace them when i redid it. its one of the few items left on mine to replace. i havent had any issues with them besides the rod ends are getting loose. but i also dont hit any big jumps or anything. i will replace them hopefully this winter.