Surfrjag

i have a pwk that takes the round jet and it has a different emulsion tube and whats even odder is that the float valve is a odd small size as well. it came on a blaster i picked up so i have no idea where it came from but it does say pwk right on it but does not have the vent hole like those do. i couldnt get it to work right, kept running out of fuel in the bowl.. have you tried using that carb yet? i think the round jets arent as deep as the hex so i dont think they will work without swapping the emulsion tube. then again they may be for a 4 stroke?

what turbo. this is a for sale thread... get your t-6 pipes here

the idle circuit your talking about i beleive may be the air screw. if compression is good you may turn that in on both 1 turn to richen it up. also if your idle is set to high it can be difficult to start. the idle is on top of the tors unit unless you have removed them and installed idle screws. also be sure that your carbs are sinced up, this can make it difficult to start as well. as stated you dont need the mix of race gas unless you have 160+ compression or excessive timing advance.

yes they are stil for sale!

bought some dent free pipes.. even though they werent in the picture, when i got them i was impressed with the lack of finish and the quarter sized dings. doubled checked the receipt and he didnt charge me for the dents at all!! thanks minkia!!

if its a drag bike then cub it up!! those t5's arent going to be the best pipe for the setup but like you said you can still build on it. pipes are easier to change out than cylinders. lol

check jet size and find out what needles you have in them....

seems to me once you go cub your going to be treading on being a drag racing motor only. consider going 4mil and doing some stock cylinders and selling yours. unless you are drag racing of course

check spark. i have seen stators go bad on these so if you dont have spark you might ohm it. should i post in your other thead too????

if you trust the guy and he says it needs that size then go with that. if you dont trust him take it somewhere else...

you should go ahead and get a new one. fast or tdr has them

the bottom end is not dificult at all. just time consuming.. there is a walk through on here that is basically step by step and very easy to follow. even i could do it also consider getting the cylinders ported, it will make your arms longer!! edit: also be sure and replace your crank seals with cometic or oem seals. good luck!

think those cylinders could be ported a little better?

so if i didnt ask, i would build one? i read that thread and it didnt say anything about having a positive deck height, resleeving, or welding some king of ring and that was after i bumped this thread. i think it was you talking about secrets to make it work. not very informative.

yeah thats what i read...

gues nobody has done a 10mil stock cylinder on here..

are you the guy on barter kings?

looks good! just get rid of the boost bottle... no timing advance on either one?

i used the copper spray once. it held up but was a paint to clean up the next time..

you may want to go ahead and fix the headgasket issue and then re assess the situation...

looks really clean i like the white plastics

i have seen some bored off center that wont even go that far..

so they are still for sale...

what clip?