possum

If your not gonna race or put paddles on or pipes etc... you can get away without a welded crank for a while if you just drive normal or dont really push it. But otherwise, thats the first and foremost thing i would do. Ive had 2 cranks come out of true on me racing bone stock bikes.

I would do what Radar is saying with carbs and pipes. Also once you get the 4 mil. Those carbs and pipes will go just right.

2 words....Mat Shearer.

Nice.

Oh I didnt see that you said that. Alky in the future. So this is becoming a full drag bike?

Not trying to be picky but the only thing I see maybe not the best is the overrev.. Maybe partially due to domes? Either way looks to have sick power. I dont expect to see nothing less with a Mat Shearer port job.

It all depends how you want it to look.

What did your compression, jetting, and timing end up at?

@mike, Is this your new motor that mat just recently ported? nice numbers. lets see the graph.

Ive had mine for 7 years. Look like the day I got them. And fit good after shimming..lol

the hole is already half there. No press needed. Also you have to grind down atleast 1/8"-3/16" off of the area where it sticks out so the new idle screw dosent bottom out before it raises the slide. To have plenty of adjustment.

And to get deck height for squish. I use digital calipers. I turn the piston a lil below the deck, then pull out the bottom of caliper and hang it in the bore against the sleeve. Resting the caliper itself on the edge of sleeve. Now turn the crank up so the piston pushes the caliper in and goes to TDC and back down. So you know you got full height of the piston. Lets say its .010 below deck. So you need a dome with a .032 step to be at a .042 squish. All of this done with whatever basegasket you plan on running in it.

To elaborate on what brandon said. Put the wheel on, and rotate the crank and eyeball TDC and set the wheel to 0°. Rotate the crank down a bit and install the piston stop. Now turn the crank till the piston comes up and touches the Before TDC °. Write down the number you see on the wheel, for example we will say 10° is on the wheel. Now turn the crank the other way until you touch the piston stop again, this will be your After TDC°. Write down the number you see on the wheel, for example we will say 14°. So now you need to move the wheel or the pointer, you will want to split the difference of 10 and 14 which will be 12. So with the piston against the piston stop, either roll the wheel 2 degrees or mover the pointer 2 degrees so it at 12°. So you should now be at 12° After TDC. Now turn the crank back down and up, back to Before TDC. And it should also be at 12° now, if not slightly adjust the pointer so it is. To verify keep rolling the motor back and forth until your wheel gives you the same amount of degrees Before and After TDC once the piston hits the stop. That is true TDC. Now you can remove or leave the piston stop on. You can leave it on and double check it, that its still ok if you bump the pointer while working. Now turn the crank down to the top of any port. Lets say the exhaust is 85° below TDC. 85°x2 = 170° its closed. So you have a remaining 190° of exhaust timing. 190+170= 360. Now to check the timing without finding TDC. Put the top of a piston at the top of a port. (I like to shine a flashlight in to see the port just close at the piston). Now set the wheel to 0°, and turn the crank down and back up to where the piston just closes off the port. That is your duration. So essentially you are simulating the stroke of the piston from top of port down and back up to top of port. I personally like this way the best. But thats just me. I hope this all made sense.

whos jumping an 80' double on any suspension on a banshee?

If you hold your hand over the exhaust and rev it. does it make your hand soaked and black? Or just a lil damp with minimal black?

Big claim there. So what builders are you talking about.

You dont need to find tdc if your simply trying to read duration.

Looks like the mount tabs are about 1"- 1-1/2" to high. I bet putting the bolt hole below the lower swingarm tube will be just right. I have never seen a mounting point that high above the chain as well. You can add a warrior link or lowering link. Also a +6 will always raise the rear. Its just even more with the arched swinger that has mounts that are a lil high. I like to lower the mounting point to lower the bike with longer arms and move the mounting point back 1-2" depending on the setup, to help sag.

I believe this is his kids 350 stock cylinder

Not to mention thats not how you go fast.

^^what tire do you run that gearing?

mat shearer.

just ask each of them if there drag port is just a cleanup with widening the exhaust. If it is dont go there!

yea hall choked. Gonzaga getting his brain smashed was great. he went out. i cant wait for this sat and next sat. great cards coming up.

300' sand and dunes/hill shooting requires different gearing.