BansheeDFW

Cam I hear ya! I have done plenty of single cylinder cranks but this is my first banshee crank. I ruined my flange puller like rocky mountain sells trying to get one of mine off. The puller I made pulled it off with no heat like it was nothing! It also doesn't contact the crank! I'm going to make a few fixtures as I go through this crank and will keep you updated with some pics and vids if I can. I see a lot of info on this site but nothing on cranks? So I'll share the info on my rebuild as best I can. More to come.

Yeah has other have said above it's a no go. I had a few stock a arms lying around and tried powder coating them. Even with a low temp powder coat it still liquifies the plastic inside the ball joint and will cause failure.

What puller do you use? I had trouble with the flat flange one I had because it couldn't get under the bearing enough and bent the tabs trying to get on of the bearings off. I have a press and have definitely put a few things in the oven and or freezer to get them apart. Any other alignment fixtures or tools used? I am making a fixture to keep everything in phase and to get the press height right. Also have some gauge blocks and indicators to check phasing. Just curious what tools anyone else uses?

Haha very true! That question was mainly for the people who rebuild their own cranks. Ill end up having about $350 in it after welding. But that is including all new gaskets and seals, and max load bearings. Most trued and welded cranks with max load bearings go for around $500+ not including gaskets and seals. Plus I wanted to learn how to do it myself and like knowing what exactly is in my bottom end.

So I decided to rebuild my own crank and had hell getting the outer main bearings off! Ended up machining a new tool to help. Going back together with hot rods connecting rods and NTN 10 ball max load bearings on all 4. What does everyone else use? Photo Album

Ok try the link now. Ok cam I understand that. I am going to buy a used stock stroke hot rods crank from here and have it trued and welded. That will keep me from feeling like i am wasting money on a new crank I don't want. I still need to sink some more money in intakes, reeds cages, carbs, and head anyway. I have a full hinson clutch now. I'll go through another season and then do a full build on a serval. Also do you know the difference between the serval cat and serval cub?

I just removed my cylinders off my shee. I have another thread on piston rotational play. After removing my cylinders I found the problem was due to rod main bearings. I also found my crank is starting to seperate. So I'm looking at my rebuild options right now. Im thinking of picking up a used stock stroke hot rods crank from a user here and going back together as a 370cc. But would really like to go the +4 421 serval route. I want some opinions on my porting now. It looks a little rough but this bike ran extremely well for a 370cc. Can anyone tell what type of port it is by looking at it? Dune, Trail etc? Also is there room to port for a +4 long rod stroke? Bore is .080 over (66mm) now. I'm wondering if since I need a crank, if I can go with a +4 long rod now. Have my stock cylinders ported to match and then step up to the serval cylinders in 68mm later. Basically do the build in stages. Anyway opinions and port type of my current cylinders will help. Cylinders

Could you PM me some pics of both? Interested Thanks, Robert Bledsoe

Ill take the nerf bars. Please send paypal info to garybled@gmail.com. Thanks

Here is a link for the video

Another view

Here are some pics of it. Jeez I hate this file size limit. Any advice on how to make this better? I also have problems loading anything into my gallery.

Well thats kinda my point! It already has all that stuff now and is a good running fun bike. I already have a very aggressive port, fairly high comp., timing advanced, and reeds, etc. I even have a new Noss head ready for it. Cases are $300 bucks if they even get completely chewed up. If I replace the crank its not going to be a stock stroke! So the port timings on these cylinders wont be right, they are .080" over and will need resleeving. The pistons and cylinder are in good shape now though. So i'm looking at 68 x 58 motors kits and redoing it all. Looks like a serval may be good for the riding I do.

Hey thanks for the offer okbeast! Nice to know your close by. I also met TNTS355 on here too. Yeah I definitely used a rag! Made that mistake a long time ago and never again! So I finished the tear down and unfortunately it wasn't the wrist pin bearings! I pulled the cylinders off to find the wrist pin bearings had no play and the rod main bearings are horrible! I took some video and pics of it all, and will try to post them tomorrow. Problems found: 1. Left side of the crank looks as if it wasn't pressed correctly. Maybe its just me but the left rod prolly has .100"+ of side slop, and almost zero clearance between the left side of the crank and case. The right side rod prolly has .050" and the crank looks centered in the case with equal clearance around it. 2. With the rods pressed over solid to one side there is a considerable amount of twist and rock in the bearings. I think with a stock crank and cylinders punched .080 over I'm going to clean everything and button it up with new gaskets for now. I'll run the dog shit out of it for a while as is and save for a full kit. Something like a 4mil. Any suggestions on what to plan for? I dont want full on drag but something capable of being fast trail or dune ridden but still go drag for fun occasionally. I owned a 421 long rod with ported stock jugs and high comp. years ago and loved it! Cheetah, Cub, Serval? Which one and why? No problem running 110 octane all the time also... running T5 pipes and stock carbs now.

Yes you should have two rollers, swingarm chain guide, and swingarm chain support. The lower roller acts as a tensioner when the swingarm is pointing down. Im at work and don't have a pic right now. Any body have one?

May sound like a stupid question, but are your chain guides all in place? I had a buddy have me come over because his chain was loose and he had bypassed the lower tension roller! I use a disc type die grinder and a chain press tool.

Haha manual actually says "there should be no noticable for the play" got it!

I agree Larry. So it looking back over it today, it appears to only have about .010 -.020 but still excessive to me. I ordered some wiseco wrist pin bearings. Once they arrive I will pull the cylinders and check everything. I will inspect the rod main bearings, rod end, wrist pin, and ring clearance while i have it apart. I'll update next week. Thanks

One more thing. Any recommendations on bearing brand? Example OEM vs Vito's vs Wiseco?

Really! I guess that was my main question. I was wondering if the wrist pin bearings tend to wear more than the rest, or if the rod main bearings, wrsit pin, bearing and rod all wear pretty evenly together. If I can just replace the wrist pin bearing and hold off on a full rebuild for a while that would be better. Rather save my $$$ for a cub or cheetah build on one of my other shees anyway. Ill just replace the wrist pin bearing and see how much play is still there. Ill update later. Thanks

Yeah Im thinking about it. I was thinking it could just be the wrist pin bearing. Im just concerned it may be the wrist pin bearing and rod wear. Is this pretty common? I just don't know. This is gonna be my beater back up shee on this trip. I was hoping to limp it along unitl I get back and then fully go through it. Maybe sleeve it to 68mm and maybe a +4mil crank...idk just rather save for a full build! I guess new wrist pin bearings would be cheap and easy. Should I replace the pin also? Don't the pin, bearing, and rod all kinda of wear together?

Ok..I have a question on the amount of piston rotational play. I bought one of my banshees last fall and havent been into the motor unitl now. I was told it had a big bore and needed race gas.....yada yada. I am getting ready for another trip to little sahara and decided to break into the top end to find out what is really in this motor and inspect it. Here is what I found. Stock stroke and rods, stock cylinders appear to have a quite a bit of porting, 66mm bore, and cant for sure but it appears the head has been shaved? Domes in stock head appear to be stock. I pretty amazed this motor is only 369-370cc! It runs hard! Cylinder and rings look good and compression seems really good. The only thing I noticed was quite a bit of rotational play in both pistons. The worse of the two probably has .020-.030 of movement. Not side to side rock but rotation. I assume this should be very little to no movement? I plan on just slapping it back together with new gaskets until after I get back from this trip. Bad idea?

Non cuts again

Cut fenders

I know this is old but I have both cut and non cut fenders. I think the cut fenders look better on the longer drag bikes with stock a arms, and they don't need them anyway. But on extended a arm bikes i like the fenders. My front end is so wide the fenders look tiny anyway! You decide....here are my shees.