Starwriter

I bought 4 stock cylinders and a set of cases from him. Everything was exactly as described, packed well, and shipped super fast. Awesome seller. Thanks

I bought a pair of cylinders from him. Exactly as described. Great price. Super fast shipping. Great guy to deal with.

If they're stock A arms, and powder coated, they're junk. Scrap metal. The heat from powder coating melts the plastic inside the ball joints.

Aren't those o rings you're talking about for the silencer end caps? O ring->end cap->snapring

You mean this logo?

For the nut that holds the lower steering stem bearing in, get a 3/4" bolt about 2" long, which will have a 1 1/8" head. You are essentially using it as a big allen wrench. You can turn the bolt with a pipe wrench or weld a junk socket to the threaded end of the bolt. You can get a new bearing and both seals for $15 shipped off ebay. There is a seal on top and one on the bottom. Pry them out with a screwdriver. Oh, and grind off all the unused brackets before you have it coated. ESPECIALLY those 2 rubber bumper brackets on the lower frame tubes for the stock pipes. Here's a list of some of the others you may or may not want to cut off. air box brackets TORS box brackets foot basket brackets lower rear fender mount brackets Then weld in a gusset to reinforce the steering stop.

OK, I've got everything I need on it's way. Don't need anything else.

I need 6 stock port cylinders. 4 of them need to be nice, but can be way out there on bore size. They're going to get sleeved. Just nothing cracked, broken, stripped, badly corroded or already sleeved. The other 2 need to be stock port, but can be totally TRASHED. I just need to saw off the reed box area. So, in other words, the reed box area needs to be decent and stock, but I don't care about the rest of the cylinder. Cracked, broken, whatever. I could also use a set of totally JUNK cases. I am talking completely unusable for anything cases. I want to have some TIG welding done on a clutch cover, and I want to have it bolted to a set of cases to prevent warping it out of shape. I am looking for a trade or cheap price here. I do not want stock bore, or 1st over $250/pair cylinders. Here's some things I have to trade if interested. 2-5 override trans complete with drum and forks Brand new, never had gas in them, 35mm PWK Air Stryker carbs. Stock A arms Stock steering stem Blue labels and smooth buffs Stock front wheel hubs, crappy white paint job Stock 6 bolt sprocket hub Stock rear brake hub Willing to negotiate straight cash deal, straight trade, or trade plus cash either way.

Make sure there's no cracks in the cases from bending the aluminum. If it's just gouged a little bit, it'll be fine. Sand it a little bit, and make sure the case mating surfaces don't have any burs, and run it.

Here you go. http://salem.craigslist.org/mcy/2272751480.html

You can part a Banshee out for more money than you can get out of it selling it whole. So, the reverse of that is that you can buy one complete much cheaper than scrounging all the parts. Especially when you factor in shipping. Even if you buy one and want to change a bunch of stuff, you can always sell most of the parts you pull off.

I'll give you $2500 cash for it sight unseen and can pick it up tomorrow. You do have the title, right? You're in Klamath Falls, right? Your listing says OBO, so if there aren't any other serious offers, then mine is the BEST offer.

So, is this the same Stellar that's a site sponsor? If so, it seems odd that you can't get to the parts site from the site sponsor link.

Uh, post a picture?

Who makes the nicest stock type tierod ends? Besides American Star. We went round and round on a deal. They have nice stuff, if you ever get it. I got pretty pissed at them. I was ready to fly to Utah and kick their Mormon ass. I know there's a few companies that make them. Tusk, All Balls, Power Sports Industries.

You probably don't have Adobe whatever, or the latest version, or something. http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/328/328233.html

It works fine for me. It's a PDF file. Must something with your computer.

I'll trade you a TORS box, a parking brake cable, and a set of beat up front brake stick guards for them. Oh, alright, I'll through in a stock front bumper that's kinda dented, but still works.

Jesus tap dancing Christ everyone, get your panties out of your ass crack. It's a pressed on stainless sleeve that the POS plastic factory roller (#10) spins on. It has to be removed and thrown away to install the Modquad style chain slider. It's probably there so that when the plastic roller goes all to hell, and the chain starts chewing up the sleeve, you can press on a new sleeve, and have a smooth surface for a new roller to spin on again.

Straight from the Lonestar website. How to set up your front end. http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

Yes, that's it. Cut the wiring harness side of the plug. Do NOT cut the wire between the connector and the CDI box. Someone, somewhere, may want to use that CDI box with the park brake "feature". Make your cut a couple inches from the connector, so that it could be connected back if necessary. Then heat shrink or tape the wire, so it can't short to ground.

Easiest and cheapest? Stop buying supersize meals at McDonalds.

Just cut 1 wire. "The only proper way to get rid of it is to cut the green/yellow wire IN THE BIKE HARNESS at the CDI box plug."

This one looks like a good deal. According to the phone#, it's in the Longview, WA area, so about a 100 mile drive for you. But if it's everything he says it is, it's worth the drive, especially if you can talk him down a bit. There are a few BHQ members in that area. I know Builder (formerly Motor Builder) is in Battle ground. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/mcy/2260615753.html

I live in Oregon too. From what I have seen, fairly clean stockers with about $1,000 worth of aftermarket pipes, tires, wheels, etc. can be bought for $1,300 to $1,700. If you step up to the $2,200 to $3,000 range, you can get as much as $7,000 worth of aftermarket goodies. But, even though stepping up gets you a better deal, it can also buy you more mechanical problems, because it has been rode hard. Regardless of what you get, don't buy without a title. I know many are sold that are not stolen, and the title has just been lost a few buyers ago, but the problem can be if you ever "lose" it, you have no way of proving it's yours.