Starwriter

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=139603&st=0&p=1205592&hl=+check%20+squish&fromsearch=1entry1205592

It's not going to hurt anything. Wipe a little oil on the cylinder walls just for cheap insurance, put it back together and fire it up. I personally would do it right away so there's no chance of it rusting the cylinders or bearings.

First, check and see if the voltage regulator is plugged in. If it's not, you'll blow the bulbs. It's a silver metal box about 1 1/2" square, just forward of the tail light with a single wire. It must be bolted down and plugged in. It shunts the excess voltage to ground. Next, does it have the headlight/ kill switch on the bars? Is it plugged in? Are you checking the tail light with the engine running and the headlight switch on? The headlight switch sends power to the tail light when on low or high. It sends power to the low and high beams respectively. Are there wire connectors with 3 wires each hanging near the headlight brackets? It's impossible to know where you're at without some info on how much the harness may be hacked up.

Although this one in the Reno area is not minty new like the others above, from what you can see it might be a good deal. The guy is a moron though for mounting his shock rezzies to the upper a arms. http://reno.craigslist.org/mcy/2532130655.html

Yep, JJ&A. From their website http://jjandaracing.com/contents/en-us/d7.html From ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KEIHIN-BILLET-STAINLESS-STEEL-IDLE-SCREWS-BANSHEE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem231271395aQQitemZ150633265498QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Same price and free shipping either way. Nice pieces.

Buy one of these. The factory brake switch is... well... hokey... cheesy... ugly... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANJO-BOLT-BRAKE-LIGHT-W-PRESSURE-SWITCH-10-x-1-25-SB-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem415bd8ee6dQQitemZ280713817709QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I can't believe that nobody has noticed that the grab bar is not parallel with the axle. The swingarm is twisted.

You should be able to. The seal doesn't have a rib like the crank seals. Once you get the sprocket and sleeve out of the way, it should be pretty easy to pry the seal out without damaging anything.

There ya go that's a right side, but is it a T5? It's not stamped.

It's not rocket science. Anything that connects the black/white wire to ground will shut down the motor. You're trying to make things too complicated. Your present tether is fine. You could have 14 different toggles and pushbuttons all set to ground the black/white wire to kill, and if you push/flip any one of them, the motor will shut off.

Step 1- buy a Clymer manual Step 2- click this link http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Step 3- ask questions if you're not sure about something

This is the push button kill switch I am going to get. It replaces the cap on the clutch perch. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Zeta-Tecate-Style-Billet-Clamp-Kill-Switch-Button-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf87f944dQQitemZ330586625101QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories For wiring, just connect the 2 kill switch wires to the 2 tether wires, so either switch completes the circuit to ground to shut it down.

Just a hunch, but I'm guessing this truck is located in Monmouth County NJ.

Shift levers kinda low isn't it?

I did it!! I welded on a piece of an old junk shifter. I rode it for about 5 minutes and I like it a LOT. We'll see how it goes with more extensive testing.

The other day I was riding in my woods and I came down real hard off a wheelie, right at the point that I was over a big rock sticking up out of the ground. I knew the rock was there, but, well, oops. Hit my left toes and folded my foot under the peg. YEEEOOOWWWW!!!. I thought for sure I broke my foot. I rode around to the front of the house, pulled off my shoe and sock and the nail is almost completely ripped off of the big toe. So anyway, it appears to be healing OK, but it's going to be a very long time before I feel like lifting the shifter with my foot. I'm thinking the best solution is to fab a heel/toe shifter. Just weld on another shifter to the rear. Anyone done this for riding while healing a foot injury?

Take something small and sharp. I have a small screwdriver like the size for adjusting carburetor air screws, ground to a point. Pound it into the seal kinda sideways, kinda close to the outside edge, but not right at the edge. Pound in a direction so that your not going towards the shaft or towards the bored part of the cases. Then put a wrench or something under it for a pivot point, and then pry it out. It's really not that hard. Just be careful not to damage the shaft or the cases.

I bought a pair of Cascade silencers from him. Great seller. Nice parts, priced right, packed well, and shipped fast. Awesome guy!!! Thanks

WOW! That is a nice set. I can't believe the auction ended with no bidders. Here it is if you want to email the seller. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Keihin-35-mm-PWK-carburetors-thumb-cable-87-06-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb87c4c7fQQitemZ260793191551QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Unplug the TORS box under the left side of the gas tank, beside the ignition coil.

Sounds like you have major clutch issues. Clean up all the components, and inspect everything. I bet that the splines on the clutch hub are beat up from the loose nut, before it finally came apart. Measure the thickness of the fibers, and see if they are within spec. Inspect the clutch basket fingers for grooves. Basically, inspect everything. Sounds like the sludge is the least of your problems.

Upon arriving home, a husband was met at the door by his sobbing wife. Tearfully, she explained, "It is the druggist. He insulted me terribly this morning on the phone. I had to phone multiple times before he would even answer the phone." Immediately, the husband drove downtown to confront the druggist and demand an apology. Before he could say more than a word or two, the druggist told him, "Now, just a minute, listen to my side of it. I was up late last night getting Prescriptions filled etc., getting ready for today. This morning the alarm failed to go off, so I over slept. I went without breakfast and hurried out to the car, just to realize I had locked the house with both house and car keys inside and had to break a window to get my keys. Then, driving a little too fast, I got a speeding ticket. Later, when I was about three blocks from the store, I had a flat tire. When I finally got to the store, a bunch of people were waiting for me to open up. I got the store opened and started waiting on these people, and all the time the darn phone was ringing off the hook. "Then I had to break a roll of nickels against the cash register drawer to make change, and they spilled all over the floor. I had to get down on my hands and knees to pick up the nickels and the phone was still ringing. When I came up I cracked my head on the open cash drawer, which made me stagger back against a showcase with a bunch of perfume bottles on it. Half of them hit the floor and broke. Meanwhile, the phone was still ringing with no let up, and I finally got back to answer it. It was your wife. She wanted to know how to use a rectal thermometer. "And believe me mister, as God is my witness, all I did was tell her."

That would be a good trick, except the seal has a rib that goes in a groove in the cases. Time to split the cases.

JP Racing became Lonestar. I don't know if it's the same equipment or management, but it's definitely the same designs and CNC programs. Back when JP Racing was in business, they made REALLY nice stuff. They unfortunately did a lot of really screwy business management deals. I didn't know they made axles, but if they put their name on it, I'm sure it's top notch quality. In the pic, it looks like there's no threads on it at the splines. If so, it uses a special nut and if he doesn't have the special nut, you're taking a gamble on it. You might try calling Lonestar and see what they have to say about it.