Starwriter

I use Photoshop elements 8. You don't need the latest version. I originally had a ripped copy of Photoshop 4 and it served me very well. The computer it was on took a dump, so I bought 8. Whatever version you get, you will have a tough time figuring out on your own. The Photoshop for Dummies books are good. The signature looks good on your post now. Thanks for copying it to your own photobucket account.

Let's break this down. Posts 1 & 2 Motor only running on 1 cylinder. Plenty of helpful advice. No confirmation on what it was or if it still just runs on 1 cylinder. Posts 3,4 & 5 Banshee for sale with no mention of location. Boost bottle in plain sight does not exactly instill confidence in "badass really fast" Call or txt for pics with no number... OK, I'll keep my opinion to myself.

If I put her on the back, you won't be able to see her jugs.

oops. Screwed that one up. How about this.

Personally, I like the signature that you have now better. It just needed to be cropped and resized. Let me know if you want some text on it. Or you can do this with it.

I'll take the clutch lever. PM sent.

They might be Dave Moore Racing. He does that kind of goofy looking upper A arm and uses heim joints for ball joints.

Yes, the regulator shunts excess voltage to ground. Check the voltage at the regulator wire. If there's no voltage, then you have a disconnected wire somewhere in the harness. If the voltage at the regulator is too high when you rev it up, you have a bad regulator.

Wow! Sounds like a mess. Good job on fixing all the screwed up wiring. As for your headlights, you mentioned that they "exploded". Headlights aren't rocket science. Check the bulbs with an ohm meter, or hook them up to a battery. If they're OK, check for voltage into and out of the headlight switch.

Your voltage regulator is not hooked up. It's a silver metal box just forward of the tail light. It shunts excess voltage to ground to keep the voltage at a level that the lights can live with. Electrical faq http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

Only 1 way to get them out. Push the inner spacer tube to the side, and use a long punch to drive them out. Go back and forth on each side of the bearing. You can do what you want, but I wouldn't reuse the bearings. You're pounding on the inner race which is pounding on the balls. New bearings should be installed with a hydraulic press, pushing on the outer race only. Then put in new seals. Do it once. Do it right. Forget about it.

The short answer. No you can't. As others mentioned, the plastic will melt and the ball joint will be sloppy loose. I cringe when I see people selling "powder coated A arms". The long answer, yes it can be done with a lot of work. I did it to a set of J arms and lower A arms. I ground away the crimp and removed the ball joints. Then I machined internally threaded rings and made a jig to align them over the ball joint socket and had my tig welding guy weld them on. Then I machined thin threaded allen plugs to hold the ball joint together after powder coating. All this only sticks up about 1/4". These arms and the jig are presently for sale. If you want them, you could cut the rings off the J arms and have them tig welded to your upper A arms. I want $200 + shipping for them.

No title= A. stolen B. Financed-- $5,000 still owed against it C. The guy is a moron YOU can't file for a lost title. ONLY the registered owner can file for lost title. You don't need a title for an ATV in Oregon, but it's better to have one to avoid future problems that could result in you losing your investment.

Call him up. Ask him if he has the title and tell him you have $1000 burning a hole in your pocket. If he doesn't have a title, I wouldn't touch it.

I've been watching that. It's only about 7 miles from me. If he has a title it's a good deal. If it has more goodies than listed, it's a great deal. However, I already have 3 Shees and only 1 of them is currently running. If you buy it, I would just assume it needs a crank too. So probably somewhere around a grand for bore, porting, crank. So, about $2,200 for a '06 Shee with pipes and sand tires, that you know whats in the motor, is not bad. Of coarse it depends on how clean/ straight it is when you actually see it. That ad is over 2 weeks old, so it wouldn't surprise me if it's already sold and the guy didn't delete the ad.

Maybe talk to JD performance direct, and see if they really made them, and if they will make you a replacement. http://www.jdperformance.net/

Correct, even if the grn/yel was rubbed through and shorted to ground, it would only kick in the rev limiter. It would still have spark and start.

Green/yellow is the park brake wire. You want it to be not connected to ground for normal running. Grounding this wire turns on a rev limiter. It does not kill the spark.

Glad to be able to help out. The spacer is tapered. Make sure you put it in the right way. Are you replacing the lower steering stem bearing too? It's only $15 for the bearing and both seals.

Stick your finger in the middle, push the spacer pipe to the side, use a long punch and drive 1 side out. Then the spacer will fall out. Then drive the other one out the other side.

Those tin things? And the tin things that go over the wheel studs? Man, those are the 1st things that need to go in the scrap metal pile. What are they supposed to do, keep sticks out of the wheels and brakes? Geez, yea right.

Wires melted on the pipe? Time to ohm out all the wires for continuity and short to ground

Yes, you're right, that's incorrect. To confirm this, go here and scroll down till you see blueish green text. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 Your previous post confirms that your coil is good.

Doh! LOL Glad it was something simple. Since you mentioned making brackets, I'm assuming you're not using stock Shee headlights. Here's some useful info for you. Q#62:How do I wire in aftermarket headlights? A#62:The easiest way to wire aftermarket headlights is to cut off the factory headlight wires between the headlight and the wiring harness connector. Then you can simply splice the new headlight wires to the black ground wire and either the green wire (which will be “low” beam on the stock handlebar light switch) or the yellow wire (“high” beam), or both if your new headlights have a high & low beam. If you want to remove the headlights you can just disconnect the factory connectors. It should be noted that the factory stator lighting coil can only handle two 30-35W headlights, or about 70W total (a little more for the taillight). If you use higher wattage bulbs with a stock stator they won’t damage anything, but will not be very bright (possibly dimmer than the stock lights!).

The Clymer is wrong for testing the coil. The correct way is plug wire to plug wire without the caps, and it should be 5,000 to 7,000 ohms. About 5,000 each for the caps is right if you are running non resistor plugs.