Starwriter

If you like it, then I guess that's what's important. Personally, I think it looks like some tweaker went at it because he had a vision that it would go faster if he drilled the shit out of it. When the frame fills up with sand, it's going to be heavier than it was before all the holes were drilled. Every where you go with that, people are going to laugh at you. Why not cut the subframe off it and weld it to that other frame?

<Baffled. Speechless. I got nothing.

Wow, you need to start at square 1. Compression test, leakdown test, clean carbs and see what pilot and main jets are in it. Cheack float level. Check to see what needle groove the clip is in. Check the air screw adjustment. Make sure the slides and float bowls are on the correct side and choke tube is installed between the carbs. Clean the filter(s). Put BR8 plugs back in it. Sync the carbs.

Is that a BR9? Wrong plug.

Could be the park brake rev limiter, but that won't affect idle. Make sure the park brake switch wire is not grounded. Pretty sure it's green/yellow. Did you have the carb tops off? If so, they could be on the wrong sides.

The ONLY wire that matters what you do with it is the black/white wire in the 3 wire plug that went to the TORS brain. Make sure that's not connected to anything. Once you unplug the TORS brain, the black/yellow wires don't do anything. They're just along for the ride. Cut them off and tape everything up.

The basics of the 4mil is that the piston goes 2 mm up into the head and down 2 mm below the transfers, so the head needs to be cut for proper squish clearance, squish band width, and volume and the bottom of the transfers need to be dropped 2mm. Once that's all squared away, then you get into degreeing in the port timings and transfer port angles. If you want to do your own porting, you need a right angle Foredom and you need to do LOTS of reading. If you want to do your own porting, that's great, but you need to consider your motives. "I saved money" "No you didn't. How much money could you have made in your machine shop in all the tons of hours you spent researching and porting?" "I ported it myself" "Yeah, and I just smoked your ass with my ___________ professionally ported stock stroke" "I don't understand why this thing needs 480 main jets" "Maybe your homebrew port job is whacked"

Sounds fair.

Depends on how complete. Clutch cover and everything underneath? OEM stator and flywheel? If all that, probably somewhere around $500-$600 US. Maybe $700 if you want to get greedy. Cases $125 Trans $125 Stator $75 Flywheel$75 Good used crank $100ish. OEM Clutch basket and gear $50ish

Split the cases and have the crank checked. Could be debris from the crank coming apart, or could be detonation, which is bad for the crank and may cause the crank to come apart in the future. Also, since you didn't do a leakdown test before you tore it apart, you have no idea what the condition of the crank seals are.

Personally, I wouldn't spend money on 66.25 cylinders.

Be sure to strip the vin number with paint stripper and then tell them not to blast the shit out of the vin number. If it's not stamped real deep, you may even consider telling them to tape off the vin and then carefully clearcoat over it. Here's is a thread with a lot of useful info about frame prep. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171188&page=1

WTF??? 1 cast piston, 1 forged piston, different porting?

Some people like the Trinity plate better because the pickup coil moves instead of the whole plate, making it easier to adjust timing without pulling the flywheel. But, really, how often are you going to change timing? I personally wouldn't put any Trinity crap on any of my motors, just out of principle. My personal feelings, buy a Chariot and support our BHQ sponsors.

http://carbonraceparts.com/

Here's all the ratio and tooth count info you could ever want. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134426

You're not from around here, are you?

Tapping the space bar on the iphone twice just takes tooooo damn long. LOL.

That is really fucked up. Way to discourage the sale of new ATVs. Time to bust out the welder and weld in a vin tube. "No, officer, that really is a 1987 Suzuki Quadsport. I just swapped in an old 1987 Banchee motor" Here's a link to the riding schedule if you have the dreaded "red sticker". http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/pages/1234/files/2007%20carb%20revised%20riding%20seasons.pdf

I have a pair that are tweaked just a little bit. I can cut through the shock mount and then you can cut them loose. They won't fit in a small flat rate box. How about $25 shipped, including pp fee?

How in the fuck did you get the stator wires wrapped around and out the hole? I bet you pinched some wires under the stator plate. And get rid of those butt connectors. They're fine for car stereos, but not for stuff that will leave you stranded. Solder and heat shrink the connections.

Get ahold of Frankthetank http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=174375

BTW, that RS cast adjustable stator plate is junk too.

Just a hunch, but I'd guess, Driveline Performance 2978 Allen rd Ortonville, MI 48462

You mention the key switch is removed. Make sure there is a good solid connection there between the red/black and black wires. It's not likely that the kill switch is making connection and killing it, but unplug it just to make sure. If you still have problems, I would try to borrow a CDI from a buddy. They can fail when hot, and work when they cool off.