Starwriter

Only took about 2 minutes of google search to come up with this. Chrome Frame Chrome A-Arms Chrome Foot Pegs / Heel Guards ... Could have been bought in 2010 for $4,000

Very good write up bansheesandrider. A few other things to mention. Front spindles are different between the early and late brake calipers. As long as you keep calipers and spindles together, you can swap to any year. I'm not so sure that the swingarms can be swapped with the different carriers. I think maybe the width spacing between the ears might be different between early and late. Early has 4 short bolts attaching the carrier. Late has 2 long bolts, going through tubes in the carrier. As long as you keep carrier with swingarm, you can swap into any year. 89 and 90 have a rear wheel bolt pattern of 4 on 156mm. (Same as the front) All other years use 4 on 115mm on the rear. As far as the front shocks, 87 was really stiff. I think 88 was a little softer. I think 89 to current is much better. There may be some slight variations in valving on the 89 to current versions, but probably not significant.

Stock swingarm? If so, did you remove the thin stainless sleeve that the stock chain roller spins on? If not, there's your problem.

I'm gonna guess that the bearings aren't seated all the way in the carrier. Pull the axle out and see if the bearing spacer is tight between the bearings. If the spacer is loose, it puts the bearings in a bind when you tighten the nut.

Sandstars are a play tire. Not a drag tire. Swap tires with your buddy and then see who smokes who.

Somebody else on here had a similar problem. It turned out that 1 of the stator wires was getting rubbed by the edge of the flywheel. After running a short time, it rubbed through the insulation and shorted out.

Man, it chaps my ass when people do this. You expect me to part with $6,000 of my hard earned money, but you can't spend 10 minutes to list a few details? Since you're not serious about selling, I'm not gonna get excited about buying. And that picture on the dunes? It's blue and has paddles and an aftermarket bumper. At least they're priced right, IF you have titles for them.

Plus 2 and 3 a arms still use stock length shocks. Just sprung and valved stiffer. Although $500 is a good deal for them, it's a huge gamble on how the valving works on a Banshee. If these need to be revalved and shortened, the good deal just went out the window.

05 has a brake light switch. 00 does not.

"2 GALLONS OF OIL RAN THROUGH IT SINCE NEW" "bored it .080 over" WTF?

There's a few of them right in your area. http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/mcy/2748190466.html http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/2751934813.html http://corvallis.craigslist.org/mcy/2737322847.html

There's a bit of a language barrier here. I'm sure by balance, he doesn't mean anything having to do with vibration. As previously mentioned, trying to machine that in a lathe, like you have it set up, is going to result in ringing and horrible chattering. The surface will end up MUCH worse than you presently have. I feel that, from your description, that you have a caliper problem or a problem with the parking brake cable. If you really want to machine the disc, you need to find someone that can grind it on a Blanchard grinder.

Here's some T5's that "need some attention". Man, the crap that some people try to sell!!!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-banshee-t-5-toomey-pipes-exhaust-headers-/320815299079?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab214fa07

Have someone wiggle the bars while you put your hand on each tie rod end. If they're loose, you will feel the slop between the spindle/tie rod or steering stem/tie rod. Also feel the lower steering stem bearing the same way.

Take a coil spring, (any spring) and unwind it, so it's a straight bar. Clamp 1 end in the vice. Grab the end and try to bend it. Now cut the bar in half and try to bend it the same distance. It will be harder to bend. Coil springs work on the same principal. They're just wound up. When you cut coils on a car to lower it, the suspension gets stiffer.

Easy springs from FAST. $5 each. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=119 Contrary to popular belief, cutting a coil spring actually makes it stiffer. You only end up with slightly less tension because of less preload on the spring. Yes, if you are careful, with trial and error cutting, you can make it sorta OK, but the right way is to buy FAST springs.

Great buyer. Excellent communications, fast payment. I sold him a billet stator cover and the transaction was flawless. Thanks.

What are the chances that you could make mounting plates that would put the pegs lower and set back between the bolt holes like these? http://www.directdrivecnc.net/footpegs.html

I sold mine to slayer.

WOW!!! I'm impressed. Look at the before and after pics. http://www.piperepair.com/gallery.htm

It has not been chromed. It's just polished.

I've got a Cascade billet cover. No mounting bolts, missing 1 small sprocket cover screw, missing small gasket. Has light surface scratches. Looks good from 5 feet away. $120 total shipped price. I'm in Oregon, down by Eugene. I see by your phone number you're in the Portland area.

This is commonly done with street rods, trailers, etc. You take the vehicle and a whole stack of receipts (steel, wheels, tires, motor, axles, wiring, etc.) to DMV. They inspect it, keep the receipts, and put a tag on the frame that has an assigned vin number. Then it is licensed as an assembled vehicle. I would really like to try to do this with a Banshee and license it as a "car" to drive on the streets. In Oregon 3 wheels can be a motorcycle, but 4 wheels is a car. Would need windshield, wiper, fenders, turn signals, horn, speedo, and seat belt. Would be a lot of work, and DMV could still say GTFO when you show up with your "car".

Let's break down your offer. It's going to cost $20 to ship them, so that's $4 per A arm and and $2 per tie rod. Last I checked, going rate on ebay is about $30 to $40 PER A arm, PLUS shipping. NOW do you see why your offer is so retarded intellectually challenged?

Go to your photobucket album. Point your curser at a pic. Just point. Do NOT click pic. You will see a few choices below the pic. Click the one that says IMG code. That will copy it to your clipboard. Paste that into your post. Presto!. The pic will appear when you post. Here, I'll give you one for free.