Starwriter

Digitron will repair it for really cheap. I had them replace the displays and housing on one of mine and i was amazed at how cheap it was. That was many years ago, but give them a call and see.

Just some big titty girl pic I found on the internet.

Correct-a-mundo

That drain area also has a brass tube inside the bowl that goes above where the fuel level is when everything is working normal. When the float needle and seat leak, the fuel goes too high and overflows down the brass tube and out that hose by the drain screw. Pull the carb and check the float level. If it's correct, replace the float needle and seat. It's pretty common for them to go bad.

The socket part is welded in and then the ball and plastic is dropped in, followed by a metal disk. Then part of the socket is crimped over the edge of the disk to hold it all together. You can't uncrimp it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Tusk-Adjustable-Racing-Axle-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350-BLASTER-200-RAPTOR-660-/110793802933?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19cbd344b5

I have a standing rule. Never, ever, ever, say, "Let's go for 1 more ride". It's always on that "1 more ride", that you crash and get hurt real bad. I've done it. ACL surgery. I know other people that have done it. You just ride and ride, and then load it up and go home. I tell my friends that if they ever say it, They're on their own. I'm gonna load up and call it a day.

The ball joints have plastic in them. The powder coat oven melts the plastic. Without the plastic, the ball joint will be sloppy.

After you powder coat the stock A arms or J arms, they're junk. If your powdercoater doesn't know that, well, he hasn't been doing it very long.

Parcel Post sucks!!!! It can take as much as 2 weeks to travel 800 miles.

Last Active: Dec 09 2011 12:20 PM

If all else fails, take the spindle loose from the A arm, J arm, tie rod, and set the hub up in a hydraulic press and push the spindle out.

Yes, that's correct. Here's the chart. http://www.mudthrowers.com/atv_wheel_chart

Yep, that's it. Get it out of there and seal up the hole.

Pull the cap off the thumb throttle, pull the switch out, put the grommet back in the thumb throttle, fill grommet with black silicone sealer. Throw the switch and wires in the garbage. Less clutter on the handle bars. Replace the clutch lever and perch with an aftermarket one.

That's a nice image. However, that applies to a solid tie tierod or rack and pinion steering. The way there are 2 holes in steering stem, that provides some of the ackerman effect. With a solid rear axle and riding on sand, correct toe out on turns is not that critical.

Looks good. Nice work. So, did that slow the steering down a bunch? In the video from before, it was so fast that if you blinked your eyes you would have been going the other direction. I'm guessing that now you're going to need to cut some off of the nuts that you welded to the steering stem.

Duct tape and zip ties

It's been a while since i've delt with this, so i don't rember all details, but it may not be possible to convert. You could have 2 single row bearings, 4 single row bearings, or 2 double row bearings. The spacer tube must exactly match the bearing shoulder to shoulder dimension of the carrier. The bearing(s) must be the exact same width when you are converting. If the bearings are a different width it will screw up your chain alignment and other things.

I found a vin on a powdercoated Shee I bought. Turned out it didn't match the title I got with it. LOL. My friend has a vin stamping jig. Took care of that. As mentioned, some are stamped deeper into the metal than others.

You can make a heel/toe shifter. I did this when I had a toe injury.

First digit about 7 1/2" from the front foot peg bolt. Last digit about 4 1/2" from the front foot peg bolt.

Yes, all tie rods made by people that know what they're doing, have left hand threads on one end. If you look close at the threads you can see which way the nut needs to turn to back it off. Oh wait, are you talking about the heim that replaces the ball joint? If so, no, should be right hand thread.

The steering arms on those spindles look really short. If they're shorter than stock, that would make the wheels turn too sharp. Also make sure the tie rods are close to the same length. X2 on repairing the steering stop. I've done a few.

My personal opinion has always been that if you don't cut your rears, you need to leave sort of a front fenderette to balance it out. If you cut the rears most of the way off, then cut the fronts all the way off. I use masking tape to lay out the lines so that the tape stays on the part you're keeping. Cut right up to the tape edge with your tool of choice. I use a cut off wheel in an air grinder, then finish with sand paper. If you scroll down to the thread titled, cut my front fenders today, there are some really good pics there. Before you lay a tool to your fenders though, you need to reduce the size of your signature pic.